EviLette Posted April 30, 2008 Report Share Posted April 30, 2008 That's the hose that's leaking. The rubber part is fine, but the rubber is crimped into a metal line that has corroded at the bottom, under my coolant resivoir. I have no idea what the part is going to be called.. let alone the difficulty to replace it. Any ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ns87 Posted April 30, 2008 Report Share Posted April 30, 2008 You can get the part at the dealer. I said screw it, and replaced it all with rubber line and used the old metal brackets to hold it all in. Either way, not too hard a fix. (5k miles, no leaks so far) My line broke when I did my motor mounts too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EviLette Posted April 30, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 30, 2008 I figured I could get the part at the dealer. Problem is, I don't know what it's called. Since I don't know what it's called... if i call and try to explain it, they'll hang up on me. It's happened before. Do you know the name for this particular part? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
per0781 Posted April 30, 2008 Report Share Posted April 30, 2008 very common for that metal line to go to shit over time. piggy back a bigger coolant hose over it and secure it with 2 clamps at the ends. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EviLette Posted April 30, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 30, 2008 very common for that metal line to go to shit over time. piggy back a bigger coolant hose over it and secure it with 2 clamps at the ends. That's a bloody brilliant idea.. the problem is that it has a large fitting at the end where it attatches to the rubber... that fix would work for a while, until I can find the part.... How would I get it over? and for that matter, WHERE THE HELL...does it go to? I have no idea what that particular hose is or what it goes to, maybe a heater hose? Two biggest questions: What the hell is the name of this part... and where does it lead to? I can't see to chase it down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
93CutlassSupreme Posted April 30, 2008 Report Share Posted April 30, 2008 That's the Heater Hose Outlet pipe. Less than $40 at the Stealership, and it isn't too bad to replace. The hardest part is getting to the heater core nipples on the firewall. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EviLette Posted April 30, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 30, 2008 That's the Heater Hose Outlet pipe. Less than $40 at the Stealership, and it isn't too bad to replace. The hardest part is getting to the heater core nipples on the firewall. Thanks! /hug That was what I needed to know. Do you think this is something i can do myself, or should I plan to take it into the shop? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
93CutlassSupreme Posted April 30, 2008 Report Share Posted April 30, 2008 That's the Heater Hose Outlet pipe. Less than $40 at the Stealership, and it isn't too bad to replace. The hardest part is getting to the heater core nipples on the firewall. Thanks! /hug That was what I needed to know. Do you think this is something i can do myself, or should I plan to take it into the shop? It isn't a hard job, you just need a couple sockets and some channel locks or pliers. Pretty straight foreword. Remove the clamp and disconnect at the water pump. Remove the coolant reservior. Follow the line and unbolt any clips holding the line onto the engine bay. Remove the clamp and disconnect at the heater core nipple located behind the engine on the firewall. Installation is the reverse of removal, and you will have to bleed the coolant system after you are done, I'm sure instructions for this are in the FAQ. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ns87 Posted April 30, 2008 Report Share Posted April 30, 2008 Rock your engine forward too. I tightened my clamp at the heater core without doing that, what a stupid idea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
93CutlassSupreme Posted April 30, 2008 Report Share Posted April 30, 2008 Rock your engine forward too. I tightened my clamp at the heater core without doing that, what a stupid idea. Well, yeah that's obvious. Being a woman though she shouldn't have much trouble back there. My fat ass had quite a hard time getting that pipe off the heatercore. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ismellrealbad Posted April 30, 2008 Report Share Posted April 30, 2008 how is that overflow tank so amazingly clean Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EviLette Posted May 1, 2008 Author Report Share Posted May 1, 2008 That's my secret. Actually.. it's brand new. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
krenzy Posted May 1, 2008 Report Share Posted May 1, 2008 GM dealers still sell those brand new?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Addicted To Boost Posted May 1, 2008 Report Share Posted May 1, 2008 I had to replace that line on my GP also. Buy a package of heater hose (I think I got a package of 8' of heater hose for $5 at oreillys) and unhook/unbolt the old line and pop the new one in. I used some little rubber U-hangers from the hardware store (don't know exactly what they're called) to mount the hose to the side by the ECM. Pretty straight-forward, you should have no problem doing this yourself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BXX Posted May 1, 2008 Report Share Posted May 1, 2008 GM dealers still sell those brand new?? Yeah, at our shop today we replaced one on a GA GT that had blown intake gaskets that dumped a lot of oil into the coolant and gummed up there resovoir.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EviLette Posted May 1, 2008 Author Report Share Posted May 1, 2008 Apparently. I'm pretty sure it came from the dealership, I didn't buy it. I had to replace that line on my GP also. Buy a package of heater hose (I think I got a package of 8' of heater hose for $5 at oreillys) and unhook/unbolt the old line and pop the new one in. I used some little rubber U-hangers from the hardware store (don't know exactly what they're called) to mount the hose to the side by the ECM. Pretty straight-forward, you should have no problem doing this yourself. I already ordered the thing from oreillys.. it will be in friday. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EviLette Posted May 2, 2008 Author Report Share Posted May 2, 2008 Okay, so I have the part ordered, hopefully it will be in tomorrow before noon, because i took a couple hours off work (paid!) to do this job. I want it to go as smoothly as possible. I looked around for a FAQ on bleeding out the cooling system, and didn't see any writeups. I browsed some threads but they were all full bleeds and flushes.. so yeah. >.> I'm just doing an R&R on one hose. The hose is higher up than any fluid levels will be sitting, so the most fluid I SHOULD (theoretically, of course) lose will be what drains out of said hose. I'll obviously have to remove my coolant overflow tank to do this, but no big deal. I'll just drain it back into the jug of antifreeze that I have... I'm pretty calm about doing this job, my biggest question is how exactly I'll bleed the air out of the cooling system. It's been a couple years since I've messed with it and I don't really remember a whole lot. Since I'm not draining the entire system, it shouldn't be too much air to bleed, how do you recommend I do this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MonteCarloDude Posted May 2, 2008 Report Share Posted May 2, 2008 i just open the valve starting with the one at the water pump, and wait for a stream of coolant to come out, then move on to the one by the T-Stat houseing and do the same, that is, if the 3.1 and the 3100 are the same......i think they are. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EviLette Posted May 2, 2008 Author Report Share Posted May 2, 2008 i just open the valve starting with the one at the water pump, and wait for a stream of coolant to come out, then move on to the one by the T-Stat houseing and do the same, that is, if the 3.1 and the 3100 are the same......i think they are. Uhm. With the car running or not? rad cap on or off? Heater on/off? etc. Are there any special tools that I need to know about BEFORE I try to do this? I keep running into problems and having to put stuff back together to run to oreillys to get what I need, and its getting to be irritating. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MonteCarloDude Posted May 2, 2008 Report Share Posted May 2, 2008 i just open the valve starting with the one at the water pump, and wait for a stream of coolant to come out, then move on to the one by the T-Stat houseing and do the same, that is, if the 3.1 and the 3100 are the same......i think they are. Uhm. With the car running or not? rad cap on or off? Heater on/off? etc. Are there any special tools that I need to know about BEFORE I try to do this? I keep running into problems and having to put stuff back together to run to oreillys to get what I need, and its getting to be irritating. doh, i left that part out...... put the rad cap on, open the valve at the water pump, it should start shooting coolant as soon as the car starts, just make sure the car is cool when you do that one, then tighten the valve, not too tight or you will round off the head of the valve!! and shut the car down, top off the coolant and start it up, then open up the one by the T-stat houseing, as soon as the t-stat opens up you will get coolant, and when you get a stream of coolant, shut off the car, let it cool down and top off the coolant, you can bleed it again if you want, i did mine once, and it stays VERY cool, but then again that is with a 180* t-stat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EviLette Posted May 2, 2008 Author Report Share Posted May 2, 2008 i just open the valve starting with the one at the water pump, and wait for a stream of coolant to come out, then move on to the one by the T-Stat houseing and do the same, that is, if the 3.1 and the 3100 are the same......i think they are. Uhm. With the car running or not? rad cap on or off? Heater on/off? etc. Are there any special tools that I need to know about BEFORE I try to do this? I keep running into problems and having to put stuff back together to run to oreillys to get what I need, and its getting to be irritating. doh, i left that part out...... put the rad cap on, open the valve at the water pump, it should start shooting coolant as soon as the car starts, just make sure the car is cool when you do that one, then tighten the valve, not too tight or you will round off the head of the valve!! and shut the car down, top off the coolant and start it up, then open up the one by the T-stat houseing, as soon as the t-stat opens up you will get coolant, and when you get a stream of coolant, shut off the car, let it cool down and top off the coolant, you can bleed it again if you want, i did mine once, and it stays VERY cool, but then again that is with a 180* t-stat. Hrm, okay. BTW, my temp gauge is dead as a doornail... so yeah. Thats part of why this has been eating at my mind. Most of it... I guess i should go ahead and pick up a t-stat while I'm there and messing with the system... or, dont fix it unless its broke? Top off the coolant at the rad cap or the overflow? I've heard arguments on this school of thought many, many times. I'll have to locate my water pump. It will be the thing that I'm not accustomed to looking at. (J/P, pretty sure I know which dealie it is under the hood!) lol Water pump is on passenger side, t-stat is on driver side (of motor) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MonteCarloDude Posted May 2, 2008 Report Share Posted May 2, 2008 i just open the valve starting with the one at the water pump, and wait for a stream of coolant to come out, then move on to the one by the T-Stat houseing and do the same, that is, if the 3.1 and the 3100 are the same......i think they are. Uhm. With the car running or not? rad cap on or off? Heater on/off? etc. Are there any special tools that I need to know about BEFORE I try to do this? I keep running into problems and having to put stuff back together to run to oreillys to get what I need, and its getting to be irritating. doh, i left that part out...... put the rad cap on, open the valve at the water pump, it should start shooting coolant as soon as the car starts, just make sure the car is cool when you do that one, then tighten the valve, not too tight or you will round off the head of the valve!! and shut the car down, top off the coolant and start it up, then open up the one by the T-stat houseing, as soon as the t-stat opens up you will get coolant, and when you get a stream of coolant, shut off the car, let it cool down and top off the coolant, you can bleed it again if you want, i did mine once, and it stays VERY cool, but then again that is with a 180* t-stat. Hrm, okay. BTW, my temp gauge is dead as a doornail... so yeah. Thats part of why this has been eating at my mind. Most of it... I guess i should go ahead and pick up a t-stat while I'm there and messing with the system... or, dont fix it unless its broke? Top off the coolant at the rad cap or the overflow? I've heard arguments on this school of thought many, many times. I'll have to locate my water pump. It will be the thing that I'm not accustomed to looking at. (J/P, pretty sure I know which dealie it is under the hood!) lol Water pump is on passenger side, t-stat is on driver side (of motor) one of the best things about the 3.1 is how easy the t-stat is the replace, the 3100 is a PITA!! i say go ahead and grab one. if the coolant in your overflow tank is good, my guess is that it is, seeing how sexy your overflow tank is. i would just top it off, if a car has a rad cap, that is how you should add coolant. but some cars like my old saturn dont have rad caps so you have to add the coolant in the overflow tank. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EviLette Posted May 2, 2008 Author Report Share Posted May 2, 2008 LOL yeah its great. I can see the pretty neon green color of my coolant with a glance at my resivoir. I do a little happy dance about that. Especially because I can only see the clean resivoir with the hood OPEN now (as oppsosed to the last 2+ years ive been running around with a louver-less louvered hood.) ugh, gonna go try to get some sleep. Call Oreillys first thing in the morning and get crackin on this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MonteCarloDude Posted May 2, 2008 Report Share Posted May 2, 2008 LOL yeah its great. I can see the pretty neon green color of my coolant with a glance at my resivoir. I do a little happy dance about that. Especially because I can only see the clean resivoir with the hood OPEN now (as oppsosed to the last 2+ years ive been running around with a louver-less louvered hood.) ugh, gonna go try to get some sleep. Call Oreillys first thing in the morning and get crackin on this. your going to make me get a new overflow tank!!! good luck with your car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EviLette Posted May 2, 2008 Author Report Share Posted May 2, 2008 Ugh, well my arms are all chewed up but the part is on, and doesn't appear to be leaking anywhere. I let the water pump side be open for probably 5 minutes and it was still bubbling, but I figured the car was getting too warm to leave it open much longer. I shut it off, topped off the coolant, then started it again. After it randomly dying on me twice (it does it at idle, no clue why), the T-stat FINALLY opened up and I got pure liquid out of it. Came in, took a shower, now I'm gonna check it again. Hopefully it will be cool enough that I can get a little more air out of the water pump side. Really nervous because I have to drivef to work in 20 minutes so i'm just really praying that I got everything done right. Replacing the part wasn't hard at all, (well, relatively not difficult. Getting it to go in where it was supposed ot, that was another matter..) but the bleeding factor just scares the piss out of me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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