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my Getrag 282 took a poop


Guest TurboSedan

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Guest TurboSedan

my Getrag 282 crapped out on me today, i had always kept a close eye on the fluid and it was always clean. it started out as a rattling noise and i figured it was a bad TO bearing. so i was driving along in 2nd and it started making some horrid grinding noises, and i slowed down and shifted into first, and it did the same. funny thing is is that i can still start the car and get it going in 3rd gear, even 4th, 5th, and Reverse work. the fluid is now black all of the sudden. my Cutlass will be down for a LONG TIME. this is now the 2nd Getrag 282 i've gone thru! it's time for me to get my GTS running i guess. by the time i drive the CS again it'll have a different engine (turbo) and transmission. does anyone know what it costs to get a 282 rebuilt or should i just go to the j/y's and hope for the best?

joshua

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Dunno if this is on topic or not.. but did you ever have grinding issues going in to reverse? I've noticed that on mine you have to push in the clutch for at least 10 seconds before putting the car in to reverse, otherwise it grinds. It doesn't do this all the time, just about 50% of the time.. You ever have that problem?

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JOSH!!!! long time not see/hear. what ya been up too??? sorry to hear about the tranny, i know what that is like, and 1800 bux later it was fixed... but anyway. hit me up sometime, i neet to talk to ya about some parts.

 

- Justin

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Guest TurboSedan

yeah i always shift into Reverse before 1st to avoid the grinding.

 

i'm going to put the CS in the back of my mind for the time being. it has no 1st or 2nd gear at all and won't be moving anytime soon. i wasn't even 'getting on it' when the tranny went :?: nor did i abuse it or have a high perfomance engine :( i've lost alot of faith in the 282. all of my money is going into turbo dodge stuff for now so i can get my GTS on the road. it only needs minor parts like seals and gaskets and some elbow grease.

 

as for the CS, it will probably sit thru the winter until next year, while i freshen up my TGP engine and find another good Getrag 282 in the salvage yard and then have it fully rebuilt. i've located one, it's just a matter of whether i get to it before anyone else :( i'm seriously doubting i'll be driving it until next spring/summer. thankfully iTurbo is letting me drive his Shadow until the GTS is up. i couldn't even get the GTS running without his help! well i probably won't be around the forum too much in the near future, i gotta lotta work to do and money to make and other crap to take care of. blah.... i'm sick of cars.

later folks.

joshua

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Guest TurboSedan
JOSH!!!! long time not see/hear. what ya been up too??? sorry to hear about the tranny, i know what that is like, and 1800 bux later it was fixed... but anyway. hit me up sometime, i neet to talk to ya about some parts.

 

- Justin

 

heya Justin what's up? let me know about parts, i still have a crapload of TGP parts to sell but due to other problems (see my beer survey reply) i have been away from the forum lately. my apologies to the people who have PM'd me lately regarding these parts, ecspecially to Davis for my serious lag problem in shipping the climate control parts.

 

i'll be in Denver numerous times this summer to see Wilco/REM, SM & the Jicks + Radiohead, other shows etc. i was really wanting to see Modest Mouse the other night in Denver but no money :(

 

really tho, anyone have any idea on what it will cost to rebuild a good Getrag 282? i'd rather throw mine away and have a 'good one' from the salvage yard that isn't messed up rebuilt with the best parts available.

joshua

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I think its 650 for all the parts in a rebuild. I dunno if he still has it, but there was a guy selling a 282 with the close ratio gearing and 3.94 FDR for 500 bucks already rebuilt and with the V6 bellhousing. Hell of a deal. If you do get rid of your 282, how much do you want for the bellhousing? I have the same close ratio trans without the bellhousing as a backup for my 284.

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Dam...sounds like your 1st and 2nd syncros went. Can you still shift into 1st or 2nd if you press the clutch and then slowly let it fall into gear as its grinding if it does grind? What went wrong with the first tranny?

 

BTW.. it grinds in rev cuz it might not have a syn on rev like other trannies. My broters Tarus SHO didn't have a syn in the revers gear.

 

Those close ratio trannys were on the early 2.5l pontiac fieros weren't they?

 

 

 

Off subject...but how do you tune a Chrysler ecm. I've hear they weren't tunnable.

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Guest TurboSedan
Dam...sounds like your 1st and 2nd syncros went. Can you still shift into 1st or 2nd if you press the clutch and then slowly let it fall into gear as its grinding if it does grind? What went wrong with the first tranny?

 

BTW.. it grinds in rev cuz it might not have a syn on rev like other trannies. My broters Tarus SHO didn't have a syn in the revers gear.

 

Those close ratio trannys were on the early 2.5l pontiac fieros weren't they?

 

 

 

Off subject...but how do you tune a Chrysler ecm. I've hear they weren't tunnable.

 

it doesn't grind at all if i shift it into 1st or 2nd - there is just nothing there. it doesn't matter if the clutch pedal is in or out. i can shift it into 1st or 2nd with the clutch in or out and rev up high and nothing at all happens. no noises at all. i can still start up the car and put it into 3rd and drive like that if i need to move the car, and even 4th, 5th, & Reverse still work. the fluid like i said is black. when the tranny went i was just crusing going about 25mph in 2nd and all of the sudden i got a severe grinding noise. i slowed down and put it into 1st, and the same thing. that is when i put it into 3rd and drove straight home.

 

about tuning Chyrsler ECM's, i don't know much. iTurbo would know alot more or go to http://www.turbododge.com . it all depends on what wiring system you have. do you have a 3.0 V6 or a 2.2/2.5 Turbo? i think they used two seperate computers in earlier cars, then SMEC (batch fire like my GTS), then in '90 or so they started using the SBEC wiring (sequential fire system). i can get different calibrations from http://www.relentlessracing.com or http://www.fwdperformance.com i haven't looked into what exactly they do tho.

 

thanks

joshua

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Guest TurboSedan
I think its 650 for all the parts in a rebuild. I dunno if he still has it, but there was a guy selling a 282 with the close ratio gearing and 3.94 FDR for 500 bucks already rebuilt and with the V6 bellhousing. Hell of a deal. If you do get rid of your 282, how much do you want for the bellhousing? I have the same close ratio trans without the bellhousing as a backup for my 284.

 

wow $650 for just the parts?!? i wonder what they'll charge for labor? i was hoping to get a good 282 rebuilt for under $700, but it doesn't sound like it now :? i wish i could get that close ratio 282, but all of my money is being dumped into my GTS for now (anyone want to buy TGP parts? :P )

anyway, i'll probably buy another differant Getrag 282 locally this fall and swap out the trans. i've already done it twice so this time it should be a day job. i'll let you know about that bellhousing Ben. btw, how do you remove a bellhousing? it all seems like part of the trans case to me....

joshua

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Dammm do you think the spider gears shaft walked out of the differential just enough to dammage the gears? Seems logical. Dam good luck getting it running again.

 

I was just asking about the Chrystler cuz I was thinking about getting a Shelby Dodge Datona and mod the sh*t out of it. MY oldest brother had a reg 88 or 90 datona and it was quck N/A with the 2.2. THOugh I realy like the style of the Conquest(head gasket eater).

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Dammm do you think the spider gears shaft walked out of the differential just enough to dammage the gears? Seems logical. Dam good luck getting it running again.

 

I was just asking about the Chrystler cuz I was thinking about getting a Shelby Dodge Datona and mod the sh*t out of it. MY oldest brother had a reg 88 or 90 datona and it was quck N/A with the 2.2. THOugh I realy like the style of the Conquest(head gasket eater).

 

if the pin broke loose it would grind or clunk when he drives

 

but if that did happen (i highly dought) the metal shavings would chew all the gears up

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take the torque converter off and there is um 10? bolts holding the bellhousing on take those off and walla ya got a removed bellhousing

 

EDIT: just checked looks like 12 bolts

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take the torque converter off and there is um 10? bolts holding the bellhousing on take those off and walla ya got a removed bellhousing

 

EDIT: just checked looks like 12 bolts

 

Lil more complicated then that. First this is a getrag, no torque converter. There is quite a few bolts to take out then you have to take some balls and springs to take off the shift forks, then the bellhousing half pretty much just pulls off.

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Dunno if this is on topic or not.. but did you ever have grinding issues going in to reverse? I've noticed that on mine you have to push in the clutch for at least 10 seconds before putting the car in to reverse, otherwise it grinds. It doesn't do this all the time, just about 50% of the time.. You ever have that problem?

 

That is just the syncros spining down. They take approx 10 seconds to stop from when you had power in the gear box.

 

Cheers

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Guest TurboSedan
Dammm do you think the spider gears shaft walked out of the differential just enough to dammage the gears? Seems logical. Dam good luck getting it running again.

 

I was just asking about the Chrystler cuz I was thinking about getting a Shelby Dodge Datona and mod the sh*t out of it. MY oldest brother had a reg 88 or 90 datona and it was quck N/A with the 2.2. THOugh I realy like the style of the Conquest(head gasket eater).

 

a quick n/a 2.2? wow, my 2.2 is SLOW before 2500 RPM or so but then FAST as hell as soon as the T03 turbo spools up to 13psi. i would go with the '89 Turbo II engine, which was intercooled, forged crank, SMEC wiring, was a common block engine block like the 2.5 so you could get creative and make your own 2.5 Intercooled Turbo II. get ready to hold on to the steering wheel when boost comes in :) but yeah the '88 Dodge Daytona Shelby Z/ '89 Daytona Shelby should have the 2.2 Turbo II engine ('89 being the best) and they come with a stout A555 5-speed.

joshua

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Guest TurboSedan

heya Justin, any word on that 282 down in Denver? i wish i could have come down to Denver and help pull the thing out but i had to work (and i'm broke). give me a call or PM me - thanks

joshua

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Guest TurboSedan
theres a 90 Daytona Shelby turbo in the local newspaper f/s $1200 needs tlc

 

sounds like a very rare car with the 2.2 Turbo IV engine (basically a Turbo II with different electronics and a small VNT turbo). if so the hood bulge will read 'VNT Turbo'. '89 was the last year for the Turbo II so it couldn't be that engine. a '90 would also have a stronger Getrag A568 too (mac daddy Chrysler 5-speed).

joshua

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