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Rear brake change on 1996 Cutlass


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Well I need help. I have never changed brakes or anything in that nature but damn it I'm going to learn. Anyways I pull the wheel off. And that’s all I know lol. What do I do? How hard will it be? How long should it take? Thanks guys! Yea I searched couldn’t find what I was looking for.

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I can't remember what 94+ brakes look like, but after you pull the wheel off it's pretty simple. There should be two bolts that hold the caliper to the caliper bracket. Unbolt those and then gently slide the caliper off the rotor. Then the pads pretty much fall right out(sometimes in more than 2 pieces :lol: ) depending on how bad they are.

 

I can't remember if your rear brakes have the stupid ass caliper where they say you need that square caliper tool to screw the piston back into the caliper. Stupidest design ever. But anyway, after you get the piston back in far enough, put new pads in then re-bolt eveything.

 

 

Just hope your piston goes back in. Every time I went to just change the pads...I ended up needing new rear calipers

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I can't remember if your rear brakes have the stupid ass caliper where they say you need that square caliper tool to screw the piston back into the caliper. Stupidest design ever. But anyway, after you get the piston back in far enough, put new pads in then re-bolt eveything.

 

They do.

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$5 at AZ...

 

A pair of needle nose pliers work in a pinch though...Turn clockwise, I think...

yep, that is what i did with my saturn, it had the same type of calipers, it is a really easy job.
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Just pads.

 

Dont do a half ass job and go buy at least two rotors. Its a good idea based on mileage to do 2 new calipers and hardware if the funds allow. I guarentee your old calipers arent working as good as they can.

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Take your wheel off. Remove the two bolts by the knuckle that hold the caliper on. These are 18mm IIRC. There is the caliper and then the caliper bracket. Change the pads rotors and the metal shim things. If your not going to replace your rotors get them turned. Unbolt the caliper sliders, inspect and lube those. Reinstall.

 

Make sure to get a coat hanger and hang the calipers.

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i can not get the fucking pads back in.. I dont know how to spin the pistion or w/e HELP!! jezz.. i hate not knowing shit..Oh and kicking the Wheel and tire does not Help getting the pads back in it simply Hurts your foot... Btw whe Brake with the metel Prong .. DOes it go on the Inside or outside..

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Sometimes you will have to break the bleeder screw slightly to get the piston to go back in easier. I had to do this on my 1994.

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I give up lol. Free car anyone? J.k But mother fucker that sob piss's me off. It took all i could to night Brake out a window or take my crow bar to the side. Man I got a temper. I’m seriously surprised the Cops didn't come.

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I give up lol. Free car anyone? J.k But mother fucker that sob piss's me off. It took all i could to night Brake out a window or take my crow bar to the side. Man I got a temper. I’m seriously surprised the Cops didn't come.

 

I was wondering how long it would take, you've owned three W's so far.

 

Welcome to working on W-Bodies. This message board may seem like a simple question-answer deal, but it's really group therapy.

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Brakes are about some of the most simple things to do on this vehicle. If your having trouble with those, then your in for some fun.

 

x2.

 

the rears are only 1 bolt and the caliper flips up, and you can change the pads and hardware. So altogether its 6 bolts counting the 5 on the wheel.

 

 

But to answer some questions, the pad with the metal wear bar on it, goes on the OUTSIDE. The wear bar goes on the bottom of the outside ( should be easy to figure this one out. ) The piston goes back in somewhat easily. Ive always used a pair of pliers and a screwdriver. You need to twist the caliper. If you want to, you can crack the bleeder a small amount to make it easier.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I just changed the rear rotors & pads on my '97 last weekend. That was the first time I've personally worked on brakes with those silly screw-in caliper pistons. (most of my cars are old and/or have rear drums) I did buy the tool, but damn if that thing is easy to keep lined up, and keep pressure pushing the piston in while turning. I'm sure that doing it a few times you get the hang of it, so I'll get there eventually. I figure it had to be easier than fighting with pliers as mentioned earlier.

 

I had to replace some corroded wheel studs while in there, too, which I had never done before. It was a good learning opportunity.

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