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Nick's Rolling TGP Thread


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little late to ask but did you coat the piss out of the bottom of the lifters with a good assembly lube?

I sure did. ;) I soaked them in oil and coated the ports where lifters sit in the block with lots of oil. She's good and lubed up.

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little late to ask but did you coat the piss out of the bottom of the lifters with a good assembly lube?

I sure did. ;) I soaked them in oil and coated the ports where lifters sit in the block with lots of oil. She's good and lubed up.

 

No no no.. he asked if you used assembly lube, not oil. Assembly lube is thick, goopy stuff that looks like gray carcinogenic frosting.

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guys, oil is just fine for valve train components, assebly lube isn't really needed unless you're doing the crank, cam, or a rotating mass.

 

what kinda of oil did you use nick? good old 10w30? lol

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In all of the motors I've done in the past, I've only used engine oil during assembly. Yes, I believe I used 10w30 during assembly. I think it should work fine. The car hasn't run in over 6 months and when I removed the intakes and valve covers, everything was still coated in a nice thick layer of oil. The Mobil 1 is doing its job well.

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  • 2 weeks later...

no however you need to follow the 20 minute @ 2000rpm cam/lifter break in and use a bottle of GM EOS in there to aid the process, then do an oil/filter change after that and you should be good.

Is it necessary to have the EOS in there? I talked to my local GM dealership yesterday and they said EOS was an assembly lube to put on parts, not an oil additive. Would it work okay if I just ran it with fresh oil and break it in?

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guys, oil is just fine for valve train components, assebly lube isn't really needed unless you're doing the crank, cam, or a rotating mass.

 

maybe if it was a roller setup I could deal with that, but seeing as it's flat tappet, and considering the cam is a high wear item in our cars to begin with, I wouldn't want to start it without an assembly lube.

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no however you need to follow the 20 minute @ 2000rpm cam/lifter break in and use a bottle of GM EOS in there to aid the process, then do an oil/filter change after that and you should be good.

Is it necessary to have the EOS in there? I talked to my local GM dealership yesterday and they said EOS was an assembly lube to put on parts, not an oil additive. Would it work okay if I just ran it with fresh oil and break it in?

What about this?

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if it were my car, i'd tear it back down far enough to put assembly lube on the lifters. flat tappet stuff is picky about being dry for a few seconds after the oil you put on flings off and the actual engine oil reaches the lobes.

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thats why they give you the lube when you buy a cam kit. most cam manuf. give very good instructions on proper cam installation and break-in procedures.

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Ok so I added the EOS, filled it up with coolant, and finished installing the rest of the parts.

At 8:30 PM here, I pulled the fuel pump/ECM fuse and cranked it over a few times. Then I re-installed the fuse and cranked it over, she fired right up.

 

It ran fantastic for about five minutes, then it just SHUT OFF! It was like I turned the key off, the car just died like that. I tried to start it again, but it just cranks and cranks, and cranks. Sounds good, but does not start! The car did this to me last fall before I put it away, but it would always re-start right away.. now it is completely dead in my garage..

 

It has ALL new sensors, gaskets and fluids, and the fuses by the ECM all check out good. It isn't throwing any codes either.

 

Any ideas??

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if you are getting fuel pressure, Its got to be something ignition. like maybe one of the icm plugs came out. did you break a tab? autozone will test icms.

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Ok I replaced the ICM today, tried to start it, no spark.

 

So then I replaced my brand new AC Delco CPS with another brand new one, still no spark.

 

I pulled out my Hot Tune chip and replaced it with my stock one, no spark.

 

The only thing I HAVEN'T replaced is the ECM and coils. The coils should be fine though..

 

Think I'm looking at a dead ECM maybe?

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I woulda given it new coils for good measure. just get a paint pen and draw on the numbers like the factory had it. or you can throw in an ecm out of the JY.

 

I got a good ecm Ill sell you. there's no sense in buying a new one if you don't need to. you should do the coils first though, that usually fixes it.

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Yeah but the thing I don't understand is why three coils that were working fine would ALL die just like that.. Thats why I'm thinking its the ECM.

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that doesn't make sense that ALL coils would take a shit at the same time....anybody close by have a ECM you could try before you buy one?

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:lol: sounds like its got a poltergeist. the thing shutting off is weird. I faintly remember that happening when my ecm died , actually. right after I got my 1st car I had one go out and I didnt know what the hell was going on but I know the car wouldnt start and my mechanic said the computer was dead and I had no choice but to trust him. anyway, yea it could very well be the ecm.
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I swapped out the coils for known good used ones from my neighbor's 96 Cutlass, and I still have no spark..

 

Now I'm waiting for the ECM to arrive.

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