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Nick's Rolling TGP Thread


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Felpro headgaskets are fine. Head porting is going to cost you a shitload, prolly ~$700 range for decent work. Ben still does them, over at the60degreev6.com store. http://wot-tech.com/shop/

 

The lifters are supposed to have a flat spot on the side. Both my stock and brand new Melling lifters have that. As said, you shouldn't use new lifters on an old cam, but now that you mixed the originals up it doesn't matter anyway. You can put a new cam in without pulling the motor, by removing the timing cover, cutting a hole in the passenger side fenderwell and feeding it through, but from the sounds of it you're not quite ready for that. You'd have to replace the cam bearings too, and it's supposed to be difficult to install a new cam without scratching the new bearings. You can take a peak at the cam lobes through the lifter slots if you throw a wrench on the crank pulley and rotate it slowly while watching them.

 

As for the coolant pipe bolt, just use a good amount of RTV in addition to the gasket, and using just the single bolt will seal it fine. My Cutlass has been like that for years.

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Thanks man, you answered pretty much all of my questions! :thumb:

 

Will it hurt anything if I put in new lifters with the original cam?

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no however you need to follow the 20 minute @ 2000rpm cam/lifter break in and use a bottle of GM EOS in there to aid the process, then do an oil/filter change after that and you should be good.

 

 

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Alright I went and bought new lifters- they look MUCH better than the stockers, the stockers looked pretty worn.

 

no however you need to follow the 20 minute @ 2000rpm cam/lifter break in and use a bottle of GM EOS in there to aid the process, then do an oil/filter change after that and you should be good.

Is there a writeup somewhere for this? And what exactly is the EOS?

 

Thanks guys

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it is Engine Oil Supplement and is of great help for breaking in flat tappet cams. it contains additives that modern oil lacks to help the lifters/lobes mate well.

 

write up:

 

when you first restart the engine you need to run it ~2000rpm for 15-20 minutes to properly break in the lifters to the cam lobes.

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Nick, I honestly wouldn't even bother with pulling the heads on your car...unless you were upgrading the 3X00 stuff. Doesn't your car have very few miles on it?

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Nick, I honestly wouldn't even bother with pulling the heads on your car...unless you were upgrading the 3X00 stuff. Doesn't your car have very few miles on it?

Yeah I decided I'm not pulling the heads. Its just more stuff that needs to be pulled off and costs more money..

I'm going to put the top end back together today, and will hopefully have her running again in the next few days.

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Haha yeah. At this point, I'm just going to put it back together with the new parts and get her running again. It hasn't run in 6 months and that has been way too long for me. It needs to run now.

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Alright so I decided to replace the knock sensor and CPS today, thought maybe it would be easier to get the job done now while I still have the intakes off.

 

Knock sensor came off easy enough, new one went in easily, all done with no problems.

 

The CPS didn't go so smoothly. I unbolted it and sprayed it with WD40 and it will spin all the way around, but it will NOT come out of the block. How do I get the CPS to come out?

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pry with small screwdriver, it's a magnet

I tried prying on it and the metal tab on the sensor that the bolt went through snapped off. That sucker is stuck in there good.

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Hmm.. now to find a good magnet... I'll have to check the hardware store to see if they have any.

 

yea i think original ones are plastic and the new ones are metal so they dont break.

No they aren't. They are both plastic with a metal tab around them.

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Nick, you can always try a vaccum cleaner, and just wedge the sucker onto the CPS port lol.

LOL I don't think my vacuum sucks that hard :lol:

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How about a coat hanger and masking tape, or duct tape? Straighten out a coat hanger, as much as needed, and wrap the end that will be going into the CPS port with masking tape, thick enough to where you can shove it in the port and have it stick to the sensor?

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