I hate plastic. (New Pictures! 01/08 - Page 12)

[CSI_MuNkY]

Why not use carpet underlay? Or the underlay they put under hardwood floors? The stuff they use under hardwood floors is about 1/4" thick foam, should be light enough for you, and does a decent job of dampening sounds from traveling through floor systems, for the money anyways.

 

As for glue, I use this stuff for all my gluing needs. Its actually a contact cement. When I was carpeting that panel behind the seats I ruined a few pieces of carpet by trying to pull it off after setting it in place.

 

Jamie

[Euro]

not to ask this in a creepy way with how this thread is going..but Andrei where is that? Definitely not Chi-Town lol

[intern8tion9l]

I doubt anyone around here would steal my stuff, but non the less if I'm out working on the car and just have to go in to take a piss, everything gets loaded into the car and locked...

if i'm at my parents' house, my car sits in the driveway with the keys in the ignition, even when nobody is home. rural FTW

[3.1cutlass]

I doubt anyone around here would steal my stuff, but non the less if I'm out working on the car and just have to go in to take a piss, everything gets loaded into the car and locked...

if i'm at my parents' house, my car sits in the driveway with the keys in the ignition, even when nobody is home. rural FTW

Same here. Every car in my driveway sits there with the keys in it.

[CSI_MuNkY]

Its like that at my gf's parents place too, if the keys aren't in the ignition, they are in the console, never had any problems, but they live in the boonies.

Of course when I go out there, my car gets locked and the keys are in my pocket, I'm just paranoid like that.

 

Jamie

[Night Fury]

When I went to look at my car, It was unlocked and the keys were in the glove box. When I picked it up, still unlocked, keys in the ign. Out in the boonies. I rarely lock my car anywhere, but I don't think I could live with leaving the keys in it. I like the project, BTW!!!!

[EviLette]

lol, well in that case it was your friends own fault, lol. I live in a similar area to xtreme, I doubt anyone around here would steal my stuff, but non the less if I'm out working on the car and just have to go in to take a piss, everything gets loaded into the car and locked...

As for "advertising" what you have by playing loud music, just be respectable and you will be fine... mine gets turned down before I pull in to the neighborhood, or if I'm going to be at a street light for a bit, I turn it down then. And at super late hours of the night, the only time I have the subs turned up is on the highway, where there are sound barricades between me and any residential areas.

 

Jamie

 

x2

[xtremerevolution]

not to ask this in a creepy way with how this thread is going..but Andrei where is that? Definitely not Chi-Town lol

 

lol. Its a suburb of Chicago, about an hour and a half out.

 

When I went to look at my car, It was unlocked and the keys were in the glove box. When I picked it up, still unlocked, keys in the ign. Out in the boonies. I rarely lock my car anywhere, but I don't think I could live with leaving the keys in it. I like the project, BTW!!!!

 

 

Thanks. Its fun doing whatever you want with your car.

 

I'm making some progress too. There is a lot of metal spot welded to the rear of my car as you can tell in the pictures, so I started getting rid of some of that a little at a time. I also got rid of the brake light since I'll be using the one that's on the rear wing instead. I went down to Lowe's to check out the prices, and I can get a 6x9 surface of 3/8" carpet padding that's supposed to absorb noise, so I'll probably end up picking up some of that and some carpeting later this week or next week. I'll post more pics with my progress soon.

[slick]

I really don't see anything out of the ordinary, minus the plastic and seats missing.

 

Be careful what you cut, you may lose ridigity.

[xtremerevolution]

I really don't see anything out of the ordinary, minus the plastic and seats missing.

 

Be careful what you cut, you may lose ridigity.

 

I know its nothing out of the ordinary; just the rear of a stripped w-body. I'm just having some fun here, now that I have the Bonneville to fall back on if I need a car.

 

The two parts I got out were basically drilled out. I didn't technically cut anything, just drilled through the spot welds to pull the metal plates right of with some high leverage pliers. The plates I pulled off were the ones that were holding the seat belt anchors on each side. The only other thing I'm going to take off is that large bar that goes across the top that has the hooks for the rear seat back rests. I'm pretty careful with what I remove from the car. Either way though, I have Aweb's RSTB back there to keep the rear end rigid. After removing those two plates, I took the car out for a cornering test and didn't notice anything different. The sheet metal there is so thin though that I can't possibly see how it could be used for anything other than supporting the seats and seat belts, so I'm just taking it right off.

 

Any suggestions any of you might have for this project would be appreciated, as always.

[jeremy]

so what is your ultimate goal with this area?

[slick]

The part in yellow probably add's more to the structure, as far as keeping it from flexing, and then part in red.

 

IMO, I wouldn't cut without knowing what you are cutting, and what adverse effects it will have.

[Euro]

not to ask this in a creepy way with how this thread is going..but Andrei where is that? Definitely not Chi-Town lol

 

lol. Its a suburb of Chicago, about an hour and a half out.

 

Sweet, that's kinda sort over by me ..... I mean .....

[CSI_MuNkY]

Slick... Maybe I'm wrong but just what I recall from the last time I had my interior out. I'm pretty sure the part you have circled in yellow is spot welded to the part you have circled in red, then the red part is welded to the side panels of the interior structure. My thought is that the red part would be the structural member...

 

Like I said, could be wrong, its been quite a while since I pulled the interior out of the back seat of my car.

 

Jamie

[slick]

You are correct, but the yellow part does play quite a bit when it comes to the structure in the back of the car. In fact, any crossbars that run from the bottom to the top in that open play a HUGE role in the structure.

[CSI_MuNkY]

ohhh ok, that makes sense!

 

If your trying to save weight by a hole saw and go to town. Just don't get carried away and you should be fine. But honestly how many 2" holes are you going to have to cut in such thin steel to save 100lb (.1 seconds)

 

Jamie

[slick]

It would take a lot.

[CSI_MuNkY]

It would take a lot.

 

Yeah, I'm sitting here thinking about where you could put holes like that to save 100lb, I'm hard pressed to come up with that many locations throughout the whole car while keeping it legal and not compromising the structure of the car.

 

Money no object? Get fiberglass parts!

 

Pro Front End extended Price= Weight=25 Ship: Truck Freight.

Rear Bumper Clip w/ tail light panel. Price= Weight=7 Ship: Truck Freight.

Extended Flat Pin On Hood . Price= Weight=13 Ship: Truck Freight.

Lift Off Trunk . Price= Weight=7 Ship: Truck Freight.

Doors With Posts. Lexan Use Only Price= Weight=12 each Ship: Truck Freight.

 

Of course the extended front end parts wouldn't work, but the rear parts should!

Those of you scratching your heads how I found that... it was posted on here ages ago and I dug it up. The same company makes parts for a few others too...

88-96 Grand Prix http://www.vfnfiberglass.com/9193gp.htm

97-03 Grand Prix http://www.vfnfiberglass.com/9703Grandprix.htm

91-94 Chevy Lumina http://www.vfnfiberglass.com/9194lumina.htm

95-99 Monte Carlo Z34 http://www.vfnfiberglass.com/95-99monte.htm

 

Sorry Cutty fans nothing for you listed on the site...

 

Jamie

[xtremerevolution]

You are correct, but the yellow part does play quite a bit when it comes to the structure in the back of the car. In fact, any crossbars that run from the bottom to the top in that open play a HUGE role in the structure.

 

Hmm, well here's what I've removed so far:

 

I've removed the pieces circled in green. The blue lines represent the borders of the metal piece that sits right behind it, which is one intact piece. I don't think I harmed any of the structure of the car by removing those two parts.

 

So you would then recommend against removing the part circled in yellow?

 

so what is your ultimate goal with this area?

 

Well in order of importance, I want to

1. remove plastic

2. have the amps facing into the cabin

3. increase my interior space

4. improve appearance

5. reduce weight

 

I'm pretty sure I'll get some carpet padding for sound insulation and then cover the whole thing with the same kind of carpeting I used on my amp board. I might turn the back of it into a couch if I use enough padding. For now, I'm still brainstorming exactly what its going to be, but the plastic had to go, and I want the amps facing inward.

[J]

plywod sub box?

[mra32]

I think if you really want to mess around, you should cut off whatever sheet metal you want, then weld in tubes to replace what you cut off. Tubing looks a whole lot cleaner than silly shaped sheet metal with all kinds of holes.

 

But seriously, get a welder if you have free time and like messing around with things.

[slick]

I think if you really want to mess around, you should cut off whatever sheet metal you want, then weld in tubes to replace what you cut off. Tubing looks a whole lot cleaner than silly shaped sheet metal with all kinds of holes.

 

But seriously, get a welder if you have free time and like messing around with things.

 

I totally agree. The sheetmetal is strong, especially the stamped stuff with all of the curves (the curves are a helluva lot stronger than the flat pieces), but replacing stuff with tubular would be the best bet all around.

[Brian P]

pretty much no turning back now!

[runt]

I'm assuming you'll be keeping this car till it's 100% dead?

[xtremerevolution]

plywod sub box?

 

No. Plywood amp board.

 

I think if you really want to mess around, you should cut off whatever sheet metal you want, then weld in tubes to replace what you cut off. Tubing looks a whole lot cleaner than silly shaped sheet metal with all kinds of holes.

 

But seriously, get a welder if you have free time and like messing around with things.

 

This actually sounds like one hell of a good idea. How much would a welder cost me for what I'm trying to do?

 

If I do this I'll be re-doing a lot of my interior to place the 6x9's in a different place.

 

pretty much no turning back now!

 

lol, no kidding. Once I got rid of those two plates, I knew there was no turning back because I'd never get the seat belts back in without them.

 

I'm assuming you'll be keeping this car till it's 100% dead?

 

Yeah. This was my first car, and the previous (and only) owner was an old lady, who's son sold it to me after she died of old age. I got one hell of a steal. I bought the car with 67,000 miles on it and I now have 177,350 miles on it.

 

Considering all the time and money I put into it on the drilled rotors, roller rockers, suspension upgrades, racing seats, hood vents, and basically a rebuild of half the car, I'd lose a lot of money if I ever sold it, plus its much too unique of a car to ever get rid of. It simply wouldn't be worth it to sell.

 

So yeah I'm keeping this car till the engine goes, which will be a very long time since these L27's really don't like to die.