88red4cyl Posted March 20, 2008 Report Share Posted March 20, 2008 I seem to remember something I read on here about a VATS bypass module... I think it had something to do with remote starters or something like that..? Does anyone know what I'm talking about? I think that the VATS system will take a crap on me any day now, and I really don't want to pay a dealer tons of money to replace it.. It has been coming on more and more frequently as I've been driving, and it worries me.. Thanks in advance guys! -Will Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slick Posted March 20, 2008 Report Share Posted March 20, 2008 http://www.w-body.com/forum/index.php?topic=64623.0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockfangd Posted March 20, 2008 Report Share Posted March 20, 2008 before anything try a new key #1cause Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88red4cyl Posted March 20, 2008 Author Report Share Posted March 20, 2008 before anything try a new key #1cause I don't think it's the key.. I have another key (that appears brand new, no scratches, signs of wear, etc.. (this was a single guy one owner car)) and it does the same thing.. I think that it's either the contacts in the ignition switch or the VATS reader itself.. Plus I have no starting issues with the car, it only comes on when driving.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88red4cyl Posted March 20, 2008 Author Report Share Posted March 20, 2008 http://www.w-body.com/forum/index.php?topic=64623.0 Chris, are the 1.5G the same as the 1G as far as the VATS thing goes? I read in you last post in that thread something about eliminating VATS altogether? How hard is that to do? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slick Posted March 21, 2008 Report Share Posted March 21, 2008 Yes, it will be exactly the same. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Addicted2bass Posted March 23, 2008 Report Share Posted March 23, 2008 You can always take a measurement of the resistance on your key then cut the VATS wire and solder a resistor in going towards car side. This will permanently disable the system. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88red4cyl Posted March 23, 2008 Author Report Share Posted March 23, 2008 You can always take a measurement of the resistance on your key then cut the VATS wire and solder a resistor in going towards car side. This will permanently disable the system. Is that the same as what slick was saying, or are you talking about something else? I got to thinking, even though the other key is practically new it doesn't mean it's still good.. Either way, it's a 13+ year old key, and the resistance may be down just from age.. I hate to try a new key though, as much as they cost if it won't fix it.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slick Posted March 24, 2008 Report Share Posted March 24, 2008 You can always take a measurement of the resistance on your key then cut the VATS wire and solder a resistor in going towards car side. This will permanently disable the system. If you would have read the link I posted above, that is exactly what I did. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88red4cyl Posted April 14, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 14, 2008 Hey guys. I was browsing the vats page, and I ran across this.. Does it do the same thing as the resistor trick, or will it override everything even if the VATS computer is bad? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slick Posted April 14, 2008 Report Share Posted April 14, 2008 Why not just put the resistor in line and be done with it? All the above link does is bypass it with a relay. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
93CutlassSupreme Posted April 14, 2008 Report Share Posted April 14, 2008 How would a relay pass it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slick Posted April 14, 2008 Report Share Posted April 14, 2008 You can use a relay that will trigger when the key is put into the ON position, sending the correct resistance. Really, only ever used for remote starts. IMO, a waste of money. A pack of resistor's is $5, maybe? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88red4cyl Posted April 14, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 14, 2008 I know the resistors are cheaper, but there are two things. First, I have never worked with resistors or a soldering iron before. I have absolutely no clue what I am doing. I would hate to go in there and screw something up worse than it already is and then be forced to take the car to the dealer because it won't run now.. Secondly, I am not 100% sure that the VATS computer isn't going out.. If it is, then the resistor thing won't do anything, will it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88red4cyl Posted April 14, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 14, 2008 Well, I thought of something.. If I get the resistance off the chip, could someone make the resistor pack thing for me (you would be compensated of course) and mail it to me? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slick Posted April 14, 2008 Report Share Posted April 14, 2008 Sure, just pay for shipping. Just be sure to get a proper reading off of your chip on your key. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88red4cyl Posted April 14, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 14, 2008 Awesome!! I hope that will fix it... My security light is on all the time after I start the car.. I don't have any trouble starting it, but I am sure I will in the near future.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88red4cyl Posted April 16, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 16, 2008 I think I figured out what is causing the light.. Today I realized that turning the direction my keys hang will trigger the security light.. If I let them hang on the side of the key that is towards me, then the light will be on.. If I move them to the other side, the light doesn't come on.. Does that sound like loose contacts in the ignition switch, or am I way off? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slick Posted April 16, 2008 Report Share Posted April 16, 2008 Yep, quite possible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88red4cyl Posted April 21, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 21, 2008 Ended up taking this car on my trip this weekend. I didn't want to because I was afraid the VATS system would give me trouble when I was far from home, but I kept the keys rested on the back of the ignition switch key and the light never even came on.. Anyway, slick, I got a multimeter and the resistance on 20k setting was 2.37.. I think that is the #8 key from the vats website..I believe I measured it right.. I put one lead on the silver on one side of the key, and the other lead on the silver on the other side.. If you still want to make that thing for me that would be great, just PM me or something like that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hotrod24 Posted December 26, 2011 Report Share Posted December 26, 2011 I had to change the steering column out in my 99 Lumina. Now it will not kick in the starter. I think it is the VATS. I am not sure what ohm the original key chip is. Does anyone know if there is a control box i can take off the car i got the column off of to make it start. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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