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dykz34

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Hi,

 

My 93 Z34 is having issues with starting in the cold. If the temp is below 20*F or so, the car will not start. The starter will only make a single CLICK noise for each turn of the key. If the temp is above 20*F, the car seems to start just fine (I know this because it has been cold in the mornings here - around 10-15*F then warms up to 25*F or so in the afternoon). I had set out to clean the connections on the starter on Sunday as this can cause issues like I've described. Upon removing the wires to clean them, the purple wire (signal, I assume) mounting stud was rusted and snapped off of the old starter. After reading a few posts on here saying to replace the starter with a 3400 starter, I went to the junkyard and got a good, used one that had been tested to work. Swapped it in (much easier to install the newer one since it's smaller!! :mrgreen: ) and the car fired right up. To note though, is that the car was in the garage and it was heated to around 40*F when I was working in there. I tested the ignition multiple times - turning the car off and then on again and it started right up every time. I thought I was good so I parked the car outside overnight...

 

This morning I went out there and the damn thing is still only making a single CLICK noise for each key turn!! :willynilly: Usually, if I am persistent enough, I can sit there and turn the key back and forth a ton of times and eventually the car will turn over and start - but this morning I gave up after a bit.

 

Does anyone know what else could be causing this problem? :question:

 

Bad ignition switch? Bad crank sensor?

 

Thanks for the help!!

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I've had this identical problem over the 4 years I've owned my car. Both engines, new starter, still same problem. Mine usually seems to happen either when I've been driving a long time and it's really warm, or if it's been sitting for like a whole day. No clue, other than ground, that might cause it. Sometimes it'll start right up, sometimes it takes 2 or 3 turns, other times I've waited over 45 minutes of sitting there turning the key.

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I've had this identical problem over the 4 years I've owned my car. Both engines, new starter, still same problem. Mine usually seems to happen either when I've been driving a long time and it's really warm, or if it's been sitting for like a whole day. No clue, other than ground, that might cause it. Sometimes it'll start right up, sometimes it takes 2 or 3 turns, other times I've waited over 45 minutes of sitting there turning the key.

So you've never been able to fix it? You just live with it?

 

Is yours affected by the cold? It's weird mine seems to work when it's not really cold outside...

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Probably the starter. Have someone hold the key to START and tap the starter with a hammer. If it goes then your starter is ready to say "fuck you" nad quit altogether.

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Probably the starter. Have someone hold the key to START and tap the starter with a hammer. If it goes then your starter is ready to say "fuck you" nad quit altogether.

I already replaced the starter. Please read the entire post.

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The GTP did that for the longest time, and now the starter has given up entirely.. not even clicking the solenoid anymore.

If you've replaced the starter, it very well could be the switch on the column.

I had to replace the ignition switch on my old 93 Lumina because it broke (key would just spin around). Wasn't an easy job as the switch is on the top side of the steering column. It could be dirty contacts inside the ignition switch that is causing the problem. I'd go back and double check all your wiring at the starter first.. maybe even pull back the looming a ways if you can. Who knows, could be a hidden wiring problem down there that's causing the issues.

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Try jumping the terminals right at the starter to rule out the control circuit. Touch 12volts to the smaller control terminal on the solenoid. If it turns over it's possible the problem is in the control circuit, however since the problem is intermettient that might not solve a thing.

 

sorry about my first reply, I'll admit I skipped a few key sentences in my rush to respond lol, sorry man.

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Alright, I got the car running finally!

 

I cleaned the negative battery terminal as it was a little crusty - that didn't help.

 

I hooked up the battery charger and cranked that sucker up to 70A starting - that didn't help.

 

Knowing that it was a temperature issue for some ridiculous reason, I turned on my propane torpedo heater and pointed it under the car at the starter.

 

The car fired right up a minute later! Un-freaking-believable!

 

So, the question is, how in the hell can temperature affect it so much to the point where it won't engage the starter? I'm beyond baffled.

 

Of course, once the car is running and warmed up - I can turn it off and restart it right away with no problem.

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My difference is that when running really warm (for example, stopping on a road trip to get gas, after driving for 2 or 3 hours, I had to wait about 45 mins before it would restart). Otherwise it normally is ok, but it'll do it a lot of times in the morning, just once or twice before it fires right up

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Does anyone have a schematic/wire diagram of the cranking system? I'm curious where the wires are routed - the purple wire is the signal wire and the ground is grounded to the flexplate - but there are multiple power sources. One from the battery directly and then another smaller pair of wires run into the harness. I'd like to figure out what those are for. Any ideas?

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AFAIK, there is only one power source for the starter, and that is the battery. The other two two wires that you are referring to power other systems in the car.

 

Also, you mention that you hear a click when you turn the key, but nothign else happens. Do the lights on the dash dim at all when this happens?

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AKAIK, there is only one power source for the starter, and that is the battery. The other two two wires that you are referring to power other systems in the car.

 

Also, you mention that you hear a click when you turn the key, but nothign else happens. Do the lights on the dash dim at all when this happens?

 

I had a hunch that those other wires were for other stuff and not the power to the starter.

 

The lights on the dash do dim when I turn the key and the starter clicks.

 

On an unrelated note: does anyone know how to break into these cars without causing damage? I tried a different battery and when I hooked it up, my alarm automatically locked the doors - and the keys are in the ignition. :cry: :willynilly:

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DOH! :eek:

 

Sorry about the keys, but that I can't help with.

 

So the dash dims... does it dim a lot, or is it the same as what you normally see? If it dims more than normal, it almost sounds to me as though the starter you got from the JY has the same issue as the old one :willynilly:

 

I'm assuming you replaced the whole starter assembly, including the solenoid?

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w-bodies are easy to break into with a set of lockout tools

 

As far as the starting issue, my 3.4 does the same thing. I have run a ground cable right near the starter, and bypassed the purple wire completely, still did the same thing. I think my battery isn't holding a full charge, so thats what I will check next time it bothers me. That click is the solenoid btw, usually it won't start/click because it's lacking in power or its junk, but if happens to all of us lq1 guys, just put it on the bitch list we have

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You just need some basic tools to diagnosis this. Mainly a test light.

 

Now, assuming your battery is good....it may not hurt to get it rechecked. This is also assuming your condition is acting up.

 

Attach your test light to ground and go to the main post on the starter. It should light. You should have power there 100% of the time. If you don't you have a cable or battery issue.

 

Then check from ground to the purple wire. Turn the ignition switch to start multiple times. If it lights everytime, you have a bad starter. If it doesn't you have an issue with the signal side of the starting circuit.

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