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93 vert 3.4l dohc 4t60e rebuild tomorrow...any suggestions


kaptnjack

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I am having my 93 vert, 3.4l DOHC tranny rebuilt tomorrow.

 

Any suggestions?

 

So far…..

 

The shop agreed to help me beef it up a little and willing to let me assist a little with parts etc.

 

Typical shop clutch packs etc.

1-2 metal thrust washer from a 4T65e

Transgo Jr. going in

Spacers on accumulator springs

Aftermarket Hardened reaction shell and sungear…Timken I think

ATF+3 fluid

 

I’ve read about a different diode sprag but haven’t figured that out yet.

 

What about torque specs?

 

Anything anyone may offer will be appreciated.

 

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perhaps add a transmission cooler too? it can be done but would be harder to do due to the specific convertible cross bracing.

 

welcome to the sight, but I have to inform you that this topics belongs in powertrain, as the vert transmission is a regular 3.4 dohc transmission. bugger. :)

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Why would you take your car to a shop where you don't suspect they'll tighten your pan bolts properly? If they can't get that right, how can you expect them to do a decent job with the rest of the (intricate and complex) transmission rebuild?

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What about torque specs? This is a little bit of a Podunk tranny shop so I need to emphasis torqueing the pan bolts…right?

 

I would expect the owner of the shop to be downright insulted if you gave him torque specs.... it IS what he does for a living afterall.

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Give the shop the benefit of the doubt

 

 

 

Why? Most professional mechanics don't give a fuck about the quality of their work.

 

 

 

Take the car somewhere else.

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I would have to agree that it would be an insult for you to give him to tq specs...

 

 

 

Why? Most professional mechanics don't give a fuck about the quality of their work.

 

Take the car somewhere else.

 

if "most professional mechanics don't give a fuck", what benefit would there be to bringing it to a different shop?

 

 

 

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I would have to agree that it would be an insult for you to give him to tq specs...

 

 

 

Why? Most professional mechanics don't give a fuck about the quality of their work.

 

Take the car somewhere else.

 

if "most professional mechanics don't give a fuck", what benefit would there be to bringing it to a different shop?

 

Because SOME shops hire mechanics that actually care, providing higher quality work then others.

 

 

If he doesn't think his shop will tighten the trans pan properly, why the fuck would he have them rebuild his transmission?

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They have been in business...at that same location for 29 years. Its an old gas station. Parts piled up everywhere. Nice folks that talk straight though...so far

 

I sit here thinking about my new white baby with a new white top floating around in tranny fluid slop.

 

I went down friday and put a cheap steering wheel cover on and used some carpet mask I had laying around and covered the carpets, console, door handle, door panel etc for protection.

 

I can imagine someone laying a greasy hand up on the new white canvas and I shudder.

 

It was going to cost me $150 to tow the car to my town and then find a trans shop....I dont know a mechanic locally (my mechanic of 15 years had a bike wreck last summer and will not be wrenching in the future...sad really) would be fishing for luck to find a trans guy here.

 

Thinking outside the box....I found a trans shop in the town where I rescued the car last week and after talking to those guys ...I figure...since their price was inline, they talked straight to me, we could comminicate, they were in business and father/son owned almost thirty years and ....it was a $150 discount on repairs because of no tow charge...it added up.

 

I also got a little creative and negotiated a needed a website too and was able to barter a 3 yr web/host package for part of the trans repair. Its not great but it will help a little.

 

They say they are full service and said the pan gasket was not a problem.

 

the owner's and Trans Tech seem genuine

 

 

 

We'll see how it shakes out

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I had my Bonneville's 4t60e rebuilt at a tiny 3 bay shop, that has almost no advertising outside of their sign, word of mouth is how most people find them, and how I did, 2 guys little old guys there do all the work. so far this is the best shifting 4t60e I've driven yet.

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If you're doing a full rebuild on it, maybe consider using Dexron VI fluid instead.

 

What info do you have on the DexVI

 

My reading suggestes that running straight Type F is popular...followed by mixing Dex/Merc and F...then followed by Straight ATF+3

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  • 3 weeks later...

Well.....My CS find is still sitting at the Garage 70 miles from home. I promised an update and since little has been accomplished...today is the three week anniversary of of my adventures in "trans repair land"

 

Wheeew...

 

Five trips. $100 in gas, ten days to get the tranny out, three to check it....sitting seven more....today I made the drive again and maybe solidified some arrangement to complete the build.

 

Turns out the tranny chewed itself up. The bearing failed on the pump shaft...shaft is knarley too. This indicates that a full rebuild is required.

 

I havent been able to find a used tranny at any of the major yards in 50 mile radius. New remans run about $1300-$1800 plus $500 for labor and misc parts etc.

Rebuild and R&R quoted at $1600

 

I have yet to drive the car since rescue

 

Painful...........

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I know I'm a day late etc, but I also suggest Dex VI, or a synthetic Dex III like Mobil 1 ATF.

 

I would NOT use ATF+3. It has a higher flash point etc than ATF IV, but lower than Dex III or VI and the friction modifiers *may* cause long term problems with clutch wear.

 

Type F is for those who want firmer shifts..............it CAN be a long term issue too, but I suspect the trannies that HAVE had long term Type F problems were likely failing anyway.

 

 

 

 

Oh, and 3.73 gears too :wink:

 

And THEY give you an excuse to get a chip with more agressive shift logic.............it's a viscous circle isn't it?

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  • 4 weeks later...

Thanks for the responses.

 

Well...I am still waiting for this tranny nightmare to cease.

 

I discovered by phone yesterday that finally....the tranny was going back in and I may have some good news today or tomorrow.

 

As per the ATF+3 issue....the tranny shop says they use ATF+3 on everything (GM?). While I have never had a tranny job done...I would guess that like a engine rebuild...a fluid change soon after breakin might not be a bad idea anyway.

 

The "builder" allowed me to submit some research materials about beefing up the 4t60e rebuild using the suggested additional accumalator washers, spacers, hardened sungear, sprag etc. He said he did all the GM suggested upgrades and stiffer springs etc. I hope this eliminates the advanced wear potentials of the 4t60e and improves shifts.

 

I will study fluids a bit more and determine what the replacement fluid would be.

 

updates to follow

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  • 5 weeks later...

its beginning to look as though this tranny is defying a rebuild.

 

details here http://www.w-body.com/forum/index.php?topic=67162.0

 

Well...I found a pump/VB/ChannelP assembly in Miami and had it overnighted here.

 

Now get this......the assembly that came in had the same part numbers cast into the channel plate, valvle body and pump and all the numbers matched the original parts but.....the parts are completly different.

 

the old channel plate is a 8682217 with three solenoids and no accumalator, the new one has the same number but has 4 solenoids and has an accumalator....go figure

 

The old pump is cast marked as 1507 and 1508 and has two switches and no bleed valve...the new one has the matching numbers but has no switches.

 

This is the weirdest shit If ever seen

 

any ideas?

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Well.......I finally found a matching valve body, channel plate and pump assembly.

 

The newly aquired assembly was completly different in design than the old one that came out of the tranny. They had the same GM part/casting numbers but a different design....go figure.

 

Turns out that the tranny in my car is a 93 with a late 92 design that was only made for about three months according to ATSG. This is why I (WE) have had such a wierd adventure with this thing trying to find parts.

 

Get this... this may help someone down the road.

 

my original channel plate had three solenoids GM part 8682217, CAV50. The new CP had 4 solenoids...GM part 8682217, CAV54

 

my original valvebody was marked lester 30, 171. The new VB was a lester 30, A117.

 

also...the pump that came woth the CP and VB had no swithes or bleed valve but...the original pump in my tranny had 2 switches and no bleed valve....they were both marked 1507/1508.

 

How crazy is that?

 

Now get this.....Scott at Lory's Transmission Parts put all this together for me...this guy is razor sharp. He contacted a tech at ATSG and they pulled original GM white papers, traced worm tracks, design changes related to switches, valves and solenoids, accumalator and more...they determined the new assembly...if put in as one matching set...even with the odd solenoid/switch design....would work with the original harness and TCU/PCM.

 

They said..just put it in, leave the fourth solenoid unattached and it would work. We did it a little different because we felt that the PCM would need signals from the pump switches and opted to swap the old pump onto the new assembly to achieve that. Otherwise there would be two connectors flopping around not connected....none of us could get our collective head around that. So, against the direction of ATSG and Lory's...the tranny guy used the old pump after a lot of comparison and prayer......

 

Its fixed, running and home.

 

So far....150 miles and very nice.

 

 

 

 

I am still waiting on further discussions with Lory's about the pump issue and the hybrid swap we did.

 

more to follow.

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