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need help with 93 3.4l oil leaks/gasket replacement tomorrow


kaptnjack

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I am having my 93 vert, 3.4l DOHC tranny rebuilt tomorrow.

 

I want try and repair some oil leaks while its apart and have the approval and help of the tranny shop guys to do this.

 

I have a new GM rubber hybrid pan gasket and would like to ask for any tips or tricks to get it in right the first time.

 

Do I need rtv/silicone?

Where and how do I apply it?

What type sealant?

Can I get to the oil pump/dist gasket from the bottom while the cradle and tranny are out?

 

What else should I do to take advantage of this disassembled state?

 

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I am having my 93 vert, 3.4l DOHC tranny rebuilt tomorrow.

 

I want try and repair some oil leaks while its apart and have the approval and help of the tranny shop guys to do this.

 

I have a new GM rubber hybrid pan gasket and would like to ask for any tips or tricks to get it in right the first time.

 

Do I need rtv/silicone?

Where and how do I apply it?

What type sealant?

Can I get to the oil pump/dist gasket from the bottom while the cradle and tranny are out?

 

What else should I do to take advantage of this disassembled state?

 

 

NO SEALANT!!! Rubber and the like are designed to not use sealant. Just get the FelPro PermaDry Plus gasket from a parts store.

 

Are you talking about the little o ring for the distributor drive??? That requires head removal to replace AFAIK.

 

New cradle bushings/bolts/retainers should be done at this time since they have to be removed anyway.

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can a dohc proficient member link our new guy to a how-to-fix guide for the 3.4 oil drive? granted, I need to read it myself again. I've got two engines out of car to do.

 

the oil seal must be changed from the top, and no pan removal in needed. some people have recommend grinding off a small part of the head to gain clearance for the oil drive to be raised, but it cannot be removed from the vehicle without head removal.

 

On cars where the oil drive can be removed, I add a paper gasket as used on late 70s -early 80's chevy v6s. double protection = :thumb:

 

and this goes in powertrain.

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sorry about the cross post CrazyK

 

I have read the thread about the dist/oil pump seal repair and have it in my favorites.

 

Thanks to everybody else too.

 

No sealant huh?

 

I thought I read in several places about added a bead of seleant to the blockside of the pan gasket...please advice.

 

Also.....cradle bushings/bolts/retainers are they a dealer item or aftermarket and where? I can see bushings...maybe retainers but, bolts?

 

I also need the rubber bumbers on the tips of the mono leaf....missing one.

 

This is the first time I have seen under the car and aside from a very wet and soupy condition from fluid leaks...everything looks good on this rescue....saw zero rust.

 

 

 

 

 

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Well if the gasket doesnt touch everyplace it needs to seal, then yes RTV will be nessessary...

 

The cradle bolts/bushings/and retainers can be bought at your favorite GM dealer or ordered through http://www.gmpartsdirect.com

 

The rear leaf spring isolator bushings can be ordered through http://www.rockauto.com or like AutoZone. It is a Dorman part that they will find in the paper catalogs. I cant remember the part number, but from AutoZone it was like $20

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Thanks about the oil pump tip.

 

I think I understand the process....I was asking originally if I could do it from the bottom while it was aprt instead of pulling the top end later.

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courtesy of grandprixgtp_91 over at 60degree.......

 

well for the pan gasket, if it is a one piece you dont need to do anything if it s a 2 piece then you need to put a gob of rtv where the pieces connect.

as for the oil pump /distributor port you can do this from the top, it might be easier to do with the tranny out thought, but you cant do a proper repair without pulling the rear head off the engine. the cheap way to do it is to take out the retainer lift up the oil pump drive as much as possible then spray some brake cleaner in there to clean as much oil out as possible, then load it with rtv silicone and twist it move it up and down and keep loading it with rtv, then push it back down, but dont put the retainer back in yet , let it dry overnight and in the morrning reinstall the retainer. that should take care of your leak

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do some searching for my username I have to have posted how I sealed up my Oil pump drive seal at least 5 times in the past few years. Because I am a total pimp and know more about any w-body motor (except the LX-5) than anyone else on this forum. In fact I have forgotten more shit than Tony claims to know. I pwn you all, BITCHES!!

 

FIXED :thumb:

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No........

 

There seems to be some employee issues at the shop.

 

I was there today and the vert is still sitting around the side....untouched.

 

:willynilly:

 

I will update when things "free up"

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  • 3 weeks later...

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