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Oil Pump Drive Seal removal problem.....?


cah77388

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Ive read and almost studied the removal of the oil pump drive seal on this site, and it kinda makes it sound like its easy to loosen the bolt up to remove the oil pump drive....I seem to not be able to get to the bolt, because of a giant hose fitting for the heater core hose....(I think)...Its on a 96 cutlass, with the 3.1, I can see the oil pump drive, but this hose fitting is in the way, I can't get any tools down in there to loosen, or remove the bolt...Has anyone else had this problem, and did they just remove the fitting, or is there another way around it I just don't see

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I've done several oil drive seals. I have done the intake gasket at the same time on EVERY one. if your oil seal is leaking.... your intake gasket should already have failed. If it has not.... you are sitting on a time bomb, especially if you have dexcool being a 96.

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dexcool is not the problem. and things wear out at different rates

dexcool equipped engines have their gaskets degrade faster. seen it in a few j/y tear downs

 

my 94.... well... the nylon surrounding the water gaskets was gone.. but the silicone seals had not budged. I'd guess the metal etching associated with dexcool makes it much worse.

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The main problem with the LIM is the materal and the design. It doesnt matter the coolant. The plastic gaskets will all fail at some point. The coolant has very little if anything to do with the failure. What causes the metal to etch is mainly all the minerals in the water. These minerals attack the metal. Thats why you use distilled water instead of tap water. Distilled water does not have these minerals.

 

 

 

back on topic... remove the air cleaner box and hose, that will give you enough room to take out that hose, and to get to that bolt and take out the drive.

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DEX-COOL does nothing to wreck the gaskets. We have trucks and vans at work all 2003 models ALL of which are hitting 300,000k mark (give or take) and ALL of these trucks have spotless oil and clean coolant that has never been changed.

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So I removed it and everything.....but I dont see an old o-ring.......really couldn't tell you were it went.., so I'm assuming that the new o-ring sits in the first groove from the bottom

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So I removed it and everything.....but I dont see an old o-ring.......really couldn't tell you were it went.., so I'm assuming that the new o-ring sits in the first groove from the bottom

????

 

the groove for the O-ring is 1/4 inch from the top, and is as wide is the new ring is. the old ring may look like a black strip flush wiht the metal surface due to degradation.

 

 

if you haven't stuck it in already.... DOUBLE YOUR LEAK INSURANCE... by adding a paper gasket at the top, the same as older cars would have had. you can either get a gasket from a chevy v6 from about 1980, or make one your self. coat both sides of the paper gasket with gasket silcone, lube the O-ring, and stick it in.

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