Captain Ficho Posted January 15, 2008 Report Posted January 15, 2008 It's no big deal but I'm a bit curious why my engine is running hotter than before. For the record, I have a 92 CS Int'l with the 3.4L DOHC. I've had my car 3 months. For the first month my car always ran on the lower end of the temp gauge (about quarter way across) and then one of my radiator hoses cracked while driving. Conveniently it was close to my friends place so I drove about a block or two with the engine overheating and parked it in his driveway until I could get around to checking it out. I got a GM replacement hose and flushed the coolant, problem solved... right? Well sorta. Since then the car has run in the mid range of the gauge, I'm just wondering what would cause it to run hotter after that? I've driven it the past 2 months without problem yet I'm wondering why it consistently sits half way across the heat gauge opposed to the first month where it was only about a quarter way across? Quote
ManicMechanic Posted January 15, 2008 Report Posted January 15, 2008 Bent thermostat after running it hot. Quote
Captain Ficho Posted January 15, 2008 Author Report Posted January 15, 2008 Confirms my suspicions, thanks for the help again ManicMechanic. Any recommendation on which temp I should go for? Stock 195 or 180? Btw, I ended up getting a new starter since the starter solenoid sticking killed it. If you remember when I asked you about it before. Quote
rockfangd Posted January 15, 2008 Report Posted January 15, 2008 lol i have the same problem with my rpms. When i bought my cutlass 4 years ago and it idled at 350-400 but after about a year it idles at 690 to 730. I liked it when it idled lower HIJACK Quote
Addicted To Boost Posted January 15, 2008 Report Posted January 15, 2008 lol i have the same problem with my rpms. When i bought my cutlass 4 years ago and it idled at 350-400 but after about a year it idles at 690 to 730. I liked it when it idled lower HIJACK How did it idle that low? 350 RPM is insanely low Quote
rockfangd Posted January 15, 2008 Report Posted January 15, 2008 lol i have the same problem with my rpms. When i bought my cutlass 4 years ago and it idled at 350-400 but after about a year it idles at 690 to 730. I liked it when it idled lower HIJACK How did it idle that low? 350 RPM is insanely low im not sure myself but it was old people that had it, and it ran and still runs beautiful. IT has never ever stalled. I better shut up now because i will probably stick my foot in my mouth for saying that lol Quote
Andrew Posted January 15, 2008 Report Posted January 15, 2008 also make sure you bleed the air out of the system really well. that could make it run hot too. Quote
SigEpCutlass Posted January 16, 2008 Report Posted January 16, 2008 Bleed the system after you replace the thermostat, and everything should be good to go. Quote
Crazy K Posted January 16, 2008 Report Posted January 16, 2008 lol i have the same problem with my rpms. When i bought my cutlass 4 years ago and it idled at 350-400 but after about a year it idles at 690 to 730. I liked it when it idled lower HIJACK How did it idle that low? 350 RPM is insanely low im not sure myself but it was old people that had it, and it ran and still runs beautiful. IT has never ever stalled. I better shut up now because i will probably stick my foot in my mouth for saying that lol the cutlass analog guage is insanely inaccurate when it read 350-400 it was probably actually 550-600. Quote
Captain Ficho Posted January 17, 2008 Author Report Posted January 17, 2008 Bleed the system after you replace the thermostat, and everything should be good to go. I haven't looked yet but I was wondering vaguely where the bleeder valves are? It'll save me from having to find them. Quote
ManicMechanic Posted January 17, 2008 Report Posted January 17, 2008 Both should be on the driver's side...One up by the master cylinder booster and one at the upper radiator hose outlet (engine side). Quote
19GT92 Posted January 17, 2008 Report Posted January 17, 2008 NOOOOO there are two bleed scrws one os ontop ot the water pump bypass tube leading around to the tb. The other one is on the t stat housing. And i'm laying money and a water pump not flowing fast enough. If the pumps gotten hot then its damaged the bearings and letting the coolant cavatate sp? thus letting minor hot spots form and in turn showing up as a hotter temp gauge reading.. I'm suggestiong to the op to change the pump and t stat and go with a 180 t stat. Quote
Captain Ficho Posted January 19, 2008 Author Report Posted January 19, 2008 Is it alright if I only open one of the bleed screws? Quote
Chancho Posted January 19, 2008 Report Posted January 19, 2008 you can but itll take twice as long, these systems do not like air, they will overhead with just the slightest air bubble in them, jusyt cycle back and forth between one bleeder screw and the other, but make sure the engine is hot first Quote
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