Help me determine my security light problem..

[88red4cyl]

I've got a 95 Lumi that's got the Security light coming on from time to time... I've read the VATS stuff on likeabigdog, and I need help determining what my problem actually is.. First of all, I've had no problem getting the car to start (well I did once right after I got the car 6 months ago).

 

The light just comes on randomly comes on when driving.. Sometimes it stays lit after you start the car and stays on for a couple days, and sometimes it won't be seen for a week or two on end... Sometimes it'll flicker on for a minute and then be gone as quickly as it came.. Is the problem something that can be fixed with the resistor trick, or is it with the VATS module? I'm not sure how to tell so I figured I'd ask you all..

 

Thanks,

Will

[slick]

The problem can be usually solved with the resistor pack.

[slick]

BTW, in my Remote starter thread, I also shown how to bypass the factory security system as well: http://www.w-body.com/forum/index.php?topic=64623.0

[rockfangd]

usually it is just the pill in the key that goes. Do you have more than one key. my 94 cutlass does that with one key but not with my other

[88red4cyl]

usually it is just the pill in the key that goes. Do you have more than one key. my 94 cutlass does that with one key but not with my other

 

I've got two sets of keys, and it does it with both of them..

[slick]

If both are doing it, I would ohm out each key, and post your results. There are only 15 resistance values possible, and the keys are good up to 10% accuracy. Anything beyond that will trigger a Security light. If both key's values are within 10% of each other, then it would be safe to assume that the actual Vats Module is going out. Generally, putting the correct resistance in line (within a 1% accuracy range), bypassing reading the key, will solve the issue, from my experiences in dealing with PK1, PK2, and PK3. But, if it still does it, then replacing the Vats Module is necessary. Or else, just completely bypass that.

[88red4cyl]

If both are doing it, I would ohm out each key, and post your results. There are only 15 resistance values possible, and the keys are good up to 10% accuracy. Anything beyond that will trigger a Security light. If both key's values are within 10% of each other, then it would be safe to assume that the actual Vats Module is going out. Generally, putting the correct resistance in line (within a 1% accuracy range), bypassing reading the key, will solve the issue, from my experiences in dealing with PK1, PK2, and PK3. But, if it still does it, then replacing the Vats Module is necessary. Or else, just completely bypass that.

 

I'll pick up a multimeter today and test my keys and post it up here.. I wasn't sure if the contacts in the ignition switch were going bad or if the actual module was taking a dump on me... Is the only way to tell by trying the resistor trick? Also, I read the post on likeabigdog about building a signal generator, and I can't make heads or tails of it... Does anybody sell those or something similar, or do I have to go to the dealership to have that done if need be?

Thanks,

Will