Heza Posted January 10, 2008 Author Report Posted January 10, 2008 no, a 12 point socket was not used. the same 15 mm socket (6 pt) ive used on everything else couldnt grab it. have to get back to work, but im sure ill be trying a handful of things tonight because there is no point in reassembling a damn engine if you cant time it properly.
ismellrealbad Posted January 10, 2008 Report Posted January 10, 2008 well if 14 didnt fit and 15 rounded it off then try 9/16
Heza Posted January 10, 2008 Author Report Posted January 10, 2008 car is a '96. 9/16 is too small and so is 14 mm. cant pound them on because i have no space to do that. im going to purchase another torch canister and look for sears' extreme wrenches (made for rounded bolts) that uses points on the flat edges of the bolt. ideas are dwindling and im only getting more pissed
Schurkey Posted January 10, 2008 Report Posted January 10, 2008 no, a 12 point socket was not used. the same 15 mm socket (6 pt) ive used on everything else couldnt grab it. have to get back to work, but im sure ill be trying a handful of things tonight because there is no point in reassembling a damn engine if you cant time it properly. If you did that with a correctly-sized 6-point socket, you should carefully inspect that socket and you'll probably end up flinging that socket into the scrap bin and buying a new one. That socket must be worn-out; or you didn't have it in firm contact with the bolt head before you applied torque. Certainly my preference has been for Snap-On sockets; but any other quality name-brand should be fine. Avoid discount junk like the plague.
rockfangd Posted January 10, 2008 Report Posted January 10, 2008 yeah my sockets are mac only because i have broken too many others and thats how you know it is time for a new one is when it strips like that. All i ever do is snap the head off before it strips lolol
19Cutlass94 Posted January 11, 2008 Report Posted January 11, 2008 Ive NEVER broken a span-on tool. Which is what we have here!
rockfangd Posted January 11, 2008 Report Posted January 11, 2008 well sometimes they do become worn. But those bolts are probable hulk tight lol. Best of luck to you
Heza Posted January 11, 2008 Author Report Posted January 11, 2008 well, last night i said f it and pulled out the dremel and a handful of spare cutting discs. although its not the fastest, i took a lot of the bolt head off where i in theory would drill it out if i had the space. once i get down to the lock ring, i will break the other pieces of metal off and pop the sprocket off. hopefully then i will be able to vice grip the leftover bolt and remove it. thanks a lot for all the responses!
White93z34 Posted January 12, 2008 Report Posted January 12, 2008 i would carve the head down first to a smaller socket!
Schurkey Posted January 12, 2008 Report Posted January 12, 2008 Why not just HEAT THE BOLT to break any threadlocking bond; that'd probably also go a long way towards removing excess torque/stretch, too. Warm the bolt head, let it cool, knock it out with an appropriate wrench powered by a BFH. It takes way less time than grinding with a Dremel (!!!) and cleaning up the residue. Heat is your friend.
rockfangd Posted January 13, 2008 Report Posted January 13, 2008 I agree about the heat. My heat and my hammer are my best friends when it comes to cars so being you cant use a hammer use heat. Something has to give. Good luck. With patience it will come out
Heza Posted January 13, 2008 Author Report Posted January 13, 2008 JOB UPDATE: after one and a half hours i got the sprockets off. just need to get new bolts to finish the job.
GP1138 Posted January 14, 2008 Report Posted January 14, 2008 19Cutlass94, you need to work on your attitude. I don't care how much sense your method made to you, it doesn't give you license to be a douchebag in someone's thread. If he doesn't do what you suggested, and it's the right way to go, it's his loss, not yours, nor anyone else who happens to feel up to reading a long thread about what you might believe to be a simple subject.
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