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Turbo 3.4 DOHC Pictures


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Thanks!

 

My 4T60e was dying long before the turbo. With intake and exhaust, I was putting out between 175 and 180 hp from 5750-6750 rpm. That killed the 1-2 clutch packs pretty quickly. A stock 3.4 tends to fall off at high RPM and that was about a 25-30 horsepower gain at redline compared with the other dyno charts I've seen. Now with the turbo it's actually starting to feel better, but I know it's on its last legs. It'll slip completely out of gear every now and then and if I keep it floored between 1 and 2 it won't always shift.

 

The intercooler is from http://www.adfxracing.com They list it under their DSM stuff. They sell it for something like $800, but I got it for about $450 off e-bay.

 

Tim

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That is sweet. How much have you spent so far on your turbo venture? With my 4T60E it wouldn't even shift at 2/3 to full throttle. It would just beat off the limiter. And sometimes it would fall out of gear... a lot!! A 5 speed is the way to go. (It is just cooler anyways)

 

 

96 GTP 5 speed

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A 5 speed is the way to go. (It is just cooler anyways)

 

That's no joke.. The TGP is hella fun to drive with the 5 speed, which, I can only imagine how much more fun a turbo'd DOHC would be to drive!

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Looks good!!! Can't wait to see some timeslips of what that beast will do.

 

I noticed you used a 1st gen DSM bypass valve, good choice. I thought that they were open under all vacuum conditions though. So, it would be open at idle sucking in unfiltered air. Something to check out :)

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That is sweet. How much have you spent so far on your turbo venture? With my 4T60E it wouldn't even shift at 2/3 to full throttle. It would just beat off the limiter. And sometimes it would fall out of gear... a lot!! A 5 speed is the way to go. (It is just cooler anyways)

 

 

96 GTP 5 speed

 

Pricing.

Turbo 550

Wastegate 180

FMU 175

Piping 100

Gauges 150

Coating 100

Misc Plumbing 400

BOV 20

Intercooler 450

Mini-AFC 135

Fuel Pump 115

Install 500

Total 2,875

 

 

Yeah, the tranny is definitely an issue. Sometimes it shifts just fine (and hard), but other times it won't shift at all and I have had it fall out of gear a few times. I'm not quite sure if I want to rebuild it or replace it with a manual yet. It depends on when it blows and how much time and $$ each is.

 

Tim

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Hey do u live in larmie or gillette. I was wondering because your car is liscenced for campbell county. I live in gillette.

 

I live in both. My parents are in Gillette and I'm staying with them for the summer. I have an internship with Kennecott. I still have a place in Laramie though and have one semester of college left. There are a few white Z34's around Gillette. You can tell which is mine because of the big tips (4 3.5" tips), spoiler, tint, mandsproduction.com stickers on the side rear windows, big tires, and lowered suspension. If you want to meet sometime, gimme a call at 680-0914. Next month it sounds like we're having a meet around Denver on the 30th and 31st.

 

Tim

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Looks good!!! Can't wait to see some timeslips of what that beast will do.

 

I noticed you used a 1st gen DSM bypass valve, good choice. I thought that they were open under all vacuum conditions though. So, it would be open at idle sucking in unfiltered air. Something to check out :)

 

I can't wait to see them either. Sometimes it feels VERY fast. The manual fan switch mod has definitely helped with consistancy, but my boost is still uneven between 5 and 8 psi. Tonight at 4500 ft, I was breaking the tires(245/50R16's) loose at 3-3.5k in first gear and having them spin for the rest of the gear!

 

As far as the BOV, the DSM valve is awesome. It's just loud enough, cheap($20 plus a $13 flange), and it's holding all of the boost pressure just fine. As far as leaking at idle, I haven't had any issues so far.

 

Tim

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So are you using the stock computer setup? Does the Vortech FMU compensate for the increase in boost? Cause I would hate to see you hit a lean situation.

 

Just trying to understand the setup more as I am interested in the same type, if not I would go for an ATI Procharger setup. Which might or might not be easier. Hooking up a bracket that is in alignment with belt etc....

 

Thanks for your time.

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So are you using the stock computer setup? Does the Vortech FMU compensate for the increase in boost? Cause I would hate to see you hit a lean situation.

 

Just trying to understand the setup more as I am interested in the same type, if not I would go for an ATI Procharger setup. Which might or might not be easier. Hooking up a bracket that is in alignment with belt etc....

 

Thanks for your time.

 

Hey, no problem. It's a 100% stock computer. My car is a MAF car so I could probably get by without the FMU IF my injectors could flow that much. I'm pretty sure the FMU is the only reason why the injectors aren't peaked out though. It's a 12:1 unit and I'm running pretty rich with it. I've been considering swapping bigger injectors and using the mini-AFC to tune for them. With something like that, you could replace the FMU entirely. Right now, the mini-AFC is in, but I haven't needed it to adjust the A/F ratio.

 

If you do decide to boost, I'd highly recommend a turbo. If you're wondering why, check out the latest version of Hot Rod. They dyno'd a turbo, roots, and centrifugal blower on a built 5.0. The centrifugal made no boost at idle and it ramped up linearly to redline ie. 0 boost at idle (1000 rpm), 3 at 4000 and 6 at 7000 and linear in between. With the turbo, boost is independent of engine speed and you can make more boost everywhere. A good alternative supercharger is a Whipple. They're as efficient as a turbo or centrifugal, but make boost instantly and keep making boost all the way to redline. That would cost more for just the supercharger and the drive than I spent for my whole setup though.

 

Any way you choose to go, I wish you the best of luck and if you have any more questions feel free to ask.

 

Tim

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My car is a MAF car so I could probably get by without the FMU IF my injectors could flow that much. I'm pretty sure the FMU is the only reason why the injectors aren't peaked out though.

 

Here is the thing, the MAF is only capable of reading so much air, once it hits the max it stops adding fuel. Also the ECM is only programmed to read so much air as well, it might be as much as the MAF can read or it may be lower. Sorry if you already know this but I don't want people thinking that MAF is god and can handle anything thrown at it.

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I know the MAF isn't perfect. The MAF charts I've seen are good for well over 500 hp and so I should never have a problem maxing out the MAF. However, the stock tables in the computer are something that I can probably max out. By that time, I'd definitely need new injectors though. The easy way to deal with that is with the mini-AFC like most of the GP guys do. It's incredibly well suited to boost and different injectors/MAF sensors, but it still is just a patch. When you're making that much power, fully programmable efi (stand alone or stock with heavy mods) is really the best way to go.

 

Tim

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I'm thinking the ECM only recognizes up to 256 g/s (its the same way in the MAF vette motors). Hooking up a scantool to actually find out the readings would be nice. The MAF will probably read a great deal more air but the ECM is calibrated to focus on the 0-256 g/s portion only.

 

The g/s variable is 16 bit, g/s = n / 256

g/s = 65535 / 256

g/s = 256

 

I'm not saying you are wrong, just trying to discourage the attitued that a STOCK MAF ECM will handle boost excellently. I've never looked into this mini-AFC before so i have no clue how well it will handle it.

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You're completely correct. A stock MAF ecu will not handle boost perfectly. There are some drivability issues at part throttle that would not be present if a MAP reading was used. The MAF computer also hates blow off valves. So while it requires minimal tuning to make the system run well at WOT, it would take a lot to maintain stock driveability. Since I'm usually between floored and cruising, it's not a big trade off for me. For some other people, it definitely would be!!!

 

The MAF sensor just outputs a frequency. The mini-AFC has settings every 1kHz from 1kHz to 13kHz. It will take the frequency at those points and alter it up or down by a certain percentage. What I was implying earlier is that assuming a linear relationship(there isn't one, but this is just an example) if you double injector size you can cut MAF frequency readings in half and double the horsepower the stock ECU is capable of handling. That's a pretty simplified way to describe it and relies on some very bad assumptions, but with larger injectors the AFC would be set to output a lower frequency than it receives and hence the stock computer would have extended range.

 

Again, I'd better stress that this really isn't the safest or most reliable way to do it, but it might work very well and it is the cheapest in the short term. Brian has been right from the beginning in saying that the proper way to tune a turbo isn't with add on boxes, but with a fully re-mapped stock ECU or an aftermarket ECU.

 

Tim

 

Tim

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  • 1 month later...
sorry for dragging this post up from the depths, just wanted to say congrats on getting a turbo setup in there.

 

turbos make anything... better! :D

 

I agree, especially after making a Vette owner feel slow!

 

Tim

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That turbo looks so big I would be afraid of it sucking my internals through the exhaust. :lol: :lol:

 

Awesome.

 

Jud

 

 

:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

 

 

 

TIM!!!

 

WE WANT A KIT! WE WANT A KIT! WE WANT A KIT!!!

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there won't be a bolt on kit, but RedZmonte may be willing to sell you most of the parts. You'd still have to weld a oil return line onto the oil pan and get another front manifold. He's turboing his 3.4 DOHC this week and if you e-mail him at shane@mandsproduction.com he might build extra crossovers and downpipes. He can also sell you virtually every part you'd need. Be ready to spend $2k+ in parts for a basic setup though!

 

Tim

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