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Posted

Even thought they are listed for the 97+ will these trailing arms work on my 96GTP?

Posted

yes. does anyone have the bolt information on them as well?

 

I posted the specs on the stock bolts about a year ago or more after going to the dealer and asking. That info is on here somewhere. They are odd, big metric bolts.

Posted

You won't get the old ones off without cutting.

Just go to a hardware store and get grade 8 bolts, new bolts cost me less than $10.

 

Jamie

Posted

You won't get the old ones off without cutting.

Just go to a hardware store and get grade 8 bolts, new bolts cost me less than $10.

 

yup

Posted

I posted the specs on the stock bolts about a year ago or more after going to the dealer and asking. That info is on here somewhere. They are odd, big metric bolts.

 

You won't get the old ones off without cutting.

Just go to a hardware store and get grade 8 bolts, new bolts cost me less than $10.

 

Jamie

Where did you find metric bolts in Grade 8?

Posted

I'll guess Home Depot.

Since metric bolts are not made to SAE Grade 8 specs, I'm guessing he used a standard SAE bolt which wouldn't fit the hole properly.

 

MAYBE the difference isn't enough to be important. I don't know what diameter bolt is supposed to be there; and what diameter bolt he used. Could be they're very close. If not, the arm may be wobbling around on the excess clearance. And wobbling around would not be my first choice.

 

(Later edit) I did some checking on these two links: (thanks, mfewtrail)

http://s44.photobucket.com/albums/f14/platjblser/?action=view&current=gp15.jpg (rear suspension is shown in the bottom right hand corner of this picture)

 

http://s44.photobucket.com/albums/f14/platjblser/?action=view&current=gp16.jpg

(rear suspension part #'s are continued on upper left hand corner of this page).

 

It seems that there are two bolts, a 12mm and a 16mm. The 16 mm bolt is equal to .630 inches; a 5/8 bolt is .625 and that's probably close enough.

 

Things get evil with the 12mm bolt. 12mm = .472 inches; 7/16 is .4375--much too small. 1/2 is .500--much too large.

Posted

you will definetly want to use the metric bolts, otherwise there will be slop, and that would defeat the purpose of having the GMPP trailing arms, being the idea is to make your suspension tighter. I remember being able to buy the bolts and GM for about the same price as i paid at ACE.

Posted

If I would of known this before hand I could of got everyone tons of these bolts and nuts where I used to work. :mad:

Posted

You won't get the old ones off without cutting.

 

Jamie

 

False! Mine came off pretty easy. you guys just must have that much more rust under your cars than me or something...

Posted

the ones farthest to the rear always will come out but sometimes

the front ones stick in the metal sleeve and have to be cut for some reason its always the pass. side that gives me fits . it we can soak the hell out of the bolts with pb blaster like a day ahead of time and i do me soak they will usually come out be patient and if you are getting pissed walk away for a few. hell like any thing on these cars

Posted

Canada winters = cutting bolts

 

I got mine at TSC, they ARE grade 8 (5 lines on the top of the head) and there is NO slop. BUT I have the Held motorsports arms and poly bushings, the sleeves MAY be slightly different than stock. I had nothing to compare them to because we butchered the stockers trying to get them out.

 

Jamie

Posted

You won't get the old ones off without cutting.

 

Jamie

 

False! Mine came off pretty easy. you guys just must have that much more rust under your cars than me or something...

Must Have Do My Bolts. I Had To Torch The Ta I Half To Get It Loose. And I Used SAE Bolts And 20K Miles Later, Not A Single Hicup.
Posted

I guess that means mines is REALLY good shape if everyone keeps having trouble with bolts and such under there! Every bolt Ive ever taken off, Ive never had a problem with at all.

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