Robby1870 Posted December 21, 2007 Report Share Posted December 21, 2007 Mine have needed replacing for some time now, however, recently the leak has gotten worse. Anyway, the way you are supposed to replace them is to drop the rear of the subframe. However, I saw, I think on here, how someone replace them by just undoing lines at the rack by accessing them after just removing the airbox and other stuff. Can this be done somewhat easily? I'm all about not dropping the frame if I don't have to. Thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ns87 Posted December 21, 2007 Report Share Posted December 21, 2007 If I am right... I thought I saw the Power Steering Lines when I was replacing the motor mount. Do they run from the back of the subframe to the front? Or did I see something else? If those are what I saw, I can't imagine getting it by the airbox Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robby1870 Posted December 21, 2007 Author Report Share Posted December 21, 2007 If I am right... I thought I saw the Power Steering Lines when I was replacing the motor mount. Do they run from the back of the subframe to the front? Or did I see something else? If those are what I saw, I can't imagine getting it by the airbox The run from the pump down the back of the engine along the transmission and up to the rack. You can see where they screw into the rack under the master cylinder. They snake around by the transmission and rack before actually going up to it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
19Cutlass94 Posted December 21, 2007 Report Share Posted December 21, 2007 Where the lines connect to the rack, and the air box is on the same side. I suppose you could get to them by doing that, but there sure as hell wouldnt be much room. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bake82 Posted December 21, 2007 Report Share Posted December 21, 2007 You can't get to them by getting up underneath the car? I thought there was lots of room....but maybe not with the auto........ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joey b Posted December 22, 2007 Report Share Posted December 22, 2007 You can access them from the top. The biggest problem with this procedure is getting the box end wrench on the nut without stripping it. If you have access to the 4 sided open wrenches they would probably be quite beneficial for this project. I did a lot of reaching from the top when changing mine, so I know it can be reached from the top. That was with the 3.4, so you should be in better shape with the 3.1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robby1870 Posted December 22, 2007 Author Report Share Posted December 22, 2007 You can access them from the top. The biggest problem with this procedure is getting the box end wrench on the nut without stripping it. If you have access to the 4 sided open wrenches they would probably be quite beneficial for this project. I did a lot of reaching from the top when changing mine, so I know it can be reached from the top. That was with the 3.4, so you should be in better shape with the 3.1 Good to know it can be done. I've got line wrenches so stripping them out shouldn't be a problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schurkey Posted December 22, 2007 Report Share Posted December 22, 2007 I had a massive PS leak on my '93 Lumina Euro 3.4. Emptied the reservoir in about twenty seconds. I expected it to be the pressure hose, and I didn't want to deal with it, so I took it to a shop. The leak was actually on the low-pressure return side of the system. The cooler tube had popped out of the hose near the rack; where the hose is clamped around the tube. They removed the ps cooler on the assumption that it was "plugged" and then installed a new, long hose from rack to reservoir. That'll teach me. It worked fine; but since the "cooler" is just a longass tube that winds around the subframe and sheds heat to the under-car air, I didn't figure it could "plug". I did figure that 13 year old hose could take a compression set from the clamps, and that with reduced clamping action the cooler tube could pop out of the hose. I took the now-removed cooler tube and hardware with me. When I had a free day I blew compressed air through it to verify that it wasn't plugged. I re-installed the cooler from underneath. I did not drop the subframe; and it was not a fun job. Still, it was do-able. I used just enough of the new return hose to connect the cooler at each end; and I used the somewhat more expensive fuel injection style clamps rather than the cheap 'n' common worm-drive ones. Total success. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted December 22, 2007 Report Share Posted December 22, 2007 I replace the old long tap-you-in-the-ass return line with the one used on 94 and up cars. it's a ten minute job! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schurkey Posted December 22, 2007 Report Share Posted December 22, 2007 I replace the old long tap-you-in-the-ass return line with the one used on 94 and up cars. it's a ten minute job! I wish I'd have known about that. How is the '94-up unit different? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockfangd Posted December 23, 2007 Report Share Posted December 23, 2007 I tried to do the ones on my 94 and they seemed nearly impossible to do. I cannot get the subframe bolts loose but yet there is not enough room from the top to get a wrench anywhere. i still havent reattempted them yet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joeld Posted December 23, 2007 Report Share Posted December 23, 2007 I just replaced the high pressure line on my 1995 GP with 3.1 engine. After driving car on a set of 8 inch ranps I disconnected the exhaust pipe at the cat converter. Got lucky and the bolts came out good, next I removed the screws from the heat shield at the exhaust pipe at rear of engine. Then removed bolts from exhaust manifold to exhaust pipe and removed this from under car. This allowed a decent amount of room to reach the steering rack hose. It is still a little tight but can be done. Good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robby1870 Posted December 31, 2007 Author Report Share Posted December 31, 2007 I just tried several ways of loosening the high pressure line at the rack and could not get anything to work. I got a couple more ideas tomorrow. One involves locating an 18mm crow's foot socket and the other involves making a stubby 18mm flare nut wrench. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joeld Posted January 2, 2008 Report Share Posted January 2, 2008 Any luck? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robby1870 Posted January 2, 2008 Author Report Share Posted January 2, 2008 hahahha, luck is the opposite of what I had. I was able to get an 18mm flare nut wrench on the high pressure line at the rack, but it would not budge, even after spraying it with penetrating lubes. So, I re-spliced the line (was spliced by original owner), and it worked while the car was on jack stands. I let it down, and in the process the splice was knocked loose. Then, I went to redo my fix, and while taking the pump off, I broke the return nipple off the pump reservoir. The parts store doesn't sell just the reservoir (even though it can be removed) and my spare pump is not here, its at my apartment in Lexington (I'm at home 300 miles away). So, my parents are taking me back to Lexington tomorrow, getting my spare pump, and taking it home. I'm gonna have a guy I know here at the Chevy dealership fix it right, (new high pressure and return line) and while he's at it, replace my leaking motor mount and subframe bushings if necessary. I called him up a little bit ago and he said about 2 hours for the power steering lines so I won't be out that much. And, its freezing cold here, 30mph winds and I need to get back to Lexington to get back to work, so paying someone to fix it right is what I'll do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slick Posted January 2, 2008 Report Share Posted January 2, 2008 Damn, that sucks, but understandable when it's cold, windy, and things just aren't going your way. Too bad you didn't have more time to let the penetrating lube to sit longer. Usually if I know it's going to be rusty, just just a pain in the ass in general, I'll spray, let it sit for a while, and do this process 3-4 times. I'll usually do this a day or two beforehand also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robby1870 Posted January 2, 2008 Author Report Share Posted January 2, 2008 Yeah, I let it sit for 24 hours before trying to get it off. I pulled a good high pressure line off of one of my parts cars (1990 5spd GP) and it came off very easy (and it was sitting at the farm for 2 years with no hood on it). Anyway, it'll get done right and I'll get a new motor mount without having to deal with it myself. Anyone got a part number for subframe bushings? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TurboSedan Posted January 2, 2008 Report Share Posted January 2, 2008 hmmm must be alot harder on auto cars? i replaced the HP line on my Cutlass a few years ago and it was pretty easy. good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian P Posted January 2, 2008 Report Share Posted January 2, 2008 heat man, heat!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Addicted To Boost Posted January 2, 2008 Report Share Posted January 2, 2008 Last time I had my TGP on the lifts in the shop, I checked out the lines and they looked like they were tucked way up there.. When I had my SE 5-speed on the lift, the ps lines were right there and looked really easy to change. The autos take up so much space Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mfewtrail Posted January 2, 2008 Report Share Posted January 2, 2008 Anyone got a part number for subframe bushings? http://s44.photobucket.com/albums/f14/platjblser/?action=view¤t=gp5.jpg If there are any more numbers, check out the next page on my photobucket account. The rest of those part numbers are in the FAQ section in my GP part scans post. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robby1870 Posted January 2, 2008 Author Report Share Posted January 2, 2008 heat man, heat!! Yeah, I thought about that, but I can't get a torch in there comfortably. Plus, at this point, I'm so fed up with it, paying someone is worth it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robby1870 Posted January 2, 2008 Author Report Share Posted January 2, 2008 Anyone got a part number for subframe bushings? http://s44.photobucket.com/albums/f14/platjblser/?action=view¤t=gp5.jpg If there are any more numbers, check out the next page on my photobucket account. The rest of those part numbers are in the FAQ section in my GP part scans post. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GOT2B GM Posted January 2, 2008 Report Share Posted January 2, 2008 I replaced the PS pressure line on my Z34 3 years ago and I had to cut a 18mm wrench in half in order to tighten the line from up top. To remove the old line, I just cut it off at the fitting and loosened the fitting using a socket. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joey b Posted January 2, 2008 Report Share Posted January 2, 2008 To remove the old line, I just cut it off at the fitting and loosened the fitting using a socket. That is a marvelous idea!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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