Robby1870 Posted December 18, 2007 Report Share Posted December 18, 2007 So I'm replacing my P/N switch. I get the old one off, and then put it up against the new one to verify it is correct. The new bolt holes on the new one (where it bolts to the tranny housing) are different than the old one, so much so that it won't fit on the car. I go to the parts store where I bought the new switch. For a 90 GP STE, there are several switches listed. One is the new one I have, listed for STE, 4spd Auto, GP Sorenson part number NS52. There is a Delco one (part number D2232A), that's picture looks like my old one and another GP Sorenson one (part number NS38) that looks like my old one, but is listed for a 3spd auto. Now, if you look up the NS38 in like 88 or 89, it just says for Auto tranny. Anyway, the guy ordered the Delco one and the other GP Sorenson and we'll find out tomorrow which one matches up. Has anyone had this trouble before? If not, then maybe this post can just be a heads up to others. EDIT: So I just looked up these parts on GP Sorenson's site and THEY list the NS38 for the 4spd auto and the NS52 for the 3spd auto, the exact opposite of Advance autoparts. At least I know I'll have the right part now. So this is just a heads up. Summary: GP Sorenson NS38 is for a 1990 GP 4spd Auto, GP Sorenson NS52 is for a 1990 GP 3spd Auto. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robby1870 Posted December 20, 2007 Author Report Share Posted December 20, 2007 To complete my post from above, I got the new Delco switch, installed it and it started right up, so that's good. Some of you may not care, but I know others like seeing inside stuff, so here are pictures of inside a park/neutral switch. First of all, to me, this is something like a turn signal switch, where I feel you could take it apart, clean it out, sand the contacts clean, then re-grease it and it would work longer. And for those on a budget that might be worthwhile to try as these things are like $70-90 new. You'll have to excuse the first couple of blurry pics as I forgot to go into macro mode. After the switch is out of the car, remove the 7 T10 torx screws. One may be hidden under the glue stuff around where the wires leave the switch. Pull the two pieces apart and you'll see this: Very dirty, corroded, etc. Remove the selector arm: The contacts on the selector arm are spring loaded, so bending them (like when "refurbishing" a turn signal switch) is not necessary. Clean all the gunk out of both sides of the switch housing and take the contacts off the selector arm and clean them, then hit them with some fine grit sand paper (I used 800) to get the corrosion off of them. All clean, it will look like this: I'm not guaranteeing this will work but a clean switch has to be better than a dirty one. Remember to re-grease the switch and where the selector arm goes into the housing with white grease. There is a small gasket (you can see it in the pics; it's blue). It'll be stretched out so when putting it back together use a knife or something to push it in the housing so you can screw it back together. Hopefully someone will enjoy/use this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ns87 Posted December 20, 2007 Report Share Posted December 20, 2007 sweet! forgive my NEWB-ness, but where exactly is this located on the transmission housing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ManicMechanic Posted December 20, 2007 Report Share Posted December 20, 2007 Right on top. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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