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Mystery random no-start: HELP!


GPX

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This is starting to drive me nuts! [i believe I've come across this issue in a couple of threads before, but I don't think I've ever seen a positive resolution, so if I'm mistaken and this is a repost, please forgive me and point me in the right direction.]

 

I've had my '96 Cutlass Supreme SL for almost two years. It's been very reliable except when the 3100 blew up, but that's another story--it now has a 3400, but this problem pre-dates the swap. Up until a couple of weeks ago, this had only happened four times so it was just kind of an amusing nuisance, but all of a sudden it's happening say, once every three days or so. Enough that it's becoming inconvenient and pissing me off. But at this point, it's so intermitant that I could never hope to take it to my mechanic and have the problem manifest itself.

 

So here's what's happening: Every once in a while I turn the key, all appropriate lights come on, as does the blower, fuel pump, and CD player, and lights if I want them are full bright. But when I turn the key to start, there's nothing there. The lights don't dim, it's like the ignition switch does not work. Then some time later--sometimes three minutes or so, but usually less that 15. I've tried jiggling the wheel and shifter. It's happened in the winter and summer, in the wet and dry. The motor has about 27K on it and I put in a battery and rebuilt alternator six months ago, and when it's behaving normally, it starts like it was already running--meaning that it's almost effortless.

 

Thanks in advance for your ideas. It stranded me at work an extra 50 minutes after a long Friday last week and then it made me a little late for work on Saturday. :willynilly: It's making me angry and a little nervous.

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Hmm.. security chip in the key going bad? Perhaps it's time for a VATS bypass. What does the security light do?

The Security light turns on like all the other idiot lights and then turns off after the car starts (I think). A month or so ago it came on while I was driving and then turned off a while later. Otherwise, no unusual behavior.

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when mine does it, I get the solenoid click, but no turn over. usually i just try again and it'll work on the second time. A few months ago, though, I did have a few times where the security was keeping it from starting, but I got no click at all, and I'd wait 3 minutes and it'd start like normal

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Hmm.. security chip in the key going bad? Perhaps it's time for a VATS bypass. What does the security light do?

 

^ Correct assumption. Do you have a spare key to swap with for a while?

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when mine does it, I get the solenoid click, but no turn over. usually i just try again and it'll work on the second time. A few months ago, though, I did have a few times where the security was keeping it from starting, but I got no click at all, and I'd wait 3 minutes and it'd start like normal

 

Mine does that now. Every now and the solenoid clicks. Works after a few tries. What's the problem?

 

(car is in storage now, and I miss it badly)

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how about the ignition switch itself ... not the lock cylinder, the switch thing located further down the column. If that unit is starting to go back, it could cause this intermittent start issue.

 

--Dave.

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was your old starter recycled to the 3400?

No, unfortunately the connecting rod got the starter from the 3100 too! It was not even 9 months old. :lol: I can laugh about it now, but it was very depressing then.

try shifting to neutral, could be neutral safety switch, thats what it was with my car

Tried that. Tried jiggling the wheel. Tried taking out the key and putting it back in. Tried yelling and swearing. What is involved in the VATS bypass? I'm considering getting a new key from the dealer because I only got one with the car. Is it stupidly expensive to get one with a chip?

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you can get that key from aftermarket companies. I think you just need to submit the tiny letter stamped on your key. If you can't read that, you can figure it out based on the measured resistance of the little chip.

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how about the ignition switch itself ... not the lock cylinder, the switch thing located further down the column. If that unit is starting to go back, it could cause this intermittent start issue.

I don't think it's the switch, but that's the first thing I get into if it's not the VATS (what does that stand for?)

when mine does it, I get the solenoid click, but no turn over. usually i just try again and it'll work on the second time. A few months ago, though, I did have a few times where the security was keeping it from starting, but I got no click at all, and I'd wait 3 minutes and it'd start like normal

Mine does that now. Every now and the solenoid clicks. Works after a few tries. What's the problem?

No click at all for me.

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VATS- Vehicle Anti-Theft System, aka the resistor that is in the key must match up and the vats computer will then let the ecm startt the vehicle, there are write ups and lots of info about this, its pretty common especially the older the car gets. as the key gets older there is the possibility that the little(chip) just a resistor looses its value, or the vats computer goes bad. none the less its one of the 2 check your key first, if its anywhere out of propper specs then get a new key (10 bucks on ebay, then a cut at wally world or home depot and see if that solves it first, if not then vats bypass is the second best alternative

 

Phew, that was long

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My 88 Cutlass Supreme Int "5 Speed" did this , mine had a viper alarm system installed. After months of agonizing push starts I pulled the alarm and the on/off switch wires were barely touching each other they had over the years melted together from heat. Sometimes starting and sometimes all power but would not turn over.

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