euroman Posted December 8, 2007 Report Share Posted December 8, 2007 I have a 98 monte ls,3100. Here is the prob. I just swapped the motor, the donor is a 97 lumi, anyhow, I pulled the motor on the lumi, and promptly replaced head, and intake gaskets. Dropped the motor in the monte fired her up, and all is well,right? Well not exactly. Now the temp will spike to overheat, it will blow cold air for a bit,then thermostat opens, temp drops,and bingo, warm air. It will do this over and over.I have already replaced the thermostat,flushed, and chemically flushed the cooling system, used a chemical that makes your coolant turn yellow if there is any exhaust in your coolant, but nothing has helped. Also, both rad hoses are warm, but the cap is ice cold.wtf? Oh, also, sometimes the upper rad hose will collapse when you rev the motor. And another thing it will push coolant into the overflow, but will not pull it back in. Any help, or ideas will greatly help me out, because I am at my wits end... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slick Posted December 8, 2007 Report Share Posted December 8, 2007 Sure your heater core isn't clogged? Make sure ALL air is out of the lines. Test your thermostat in a boiling pan of water. Also, it helps if you drill a 1/8" hole in the thermostat. This allows air to escape for bleeding purpose's. No external leaks? The oil look milky any? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
euroman Posted December 8, 2007 Author Report Share Posted December 8, 2007 not sure about the heater core, I wouldn't think it is plugged, but who knows. As far as air goes, I can bleed all the air out, but it somehow keeps collecting again. No external leaks, and oil looks good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BXX Posted December 8, 2007 Report Share Posted December 8, 2007 bleeding out coolant systems properly takes forever... On average, it takes almost an hour believe it or not... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
euroman Posted December 8, 2007 Author Report Share Posted December 8, 2007 what exactly is the proper procedure for bleeding the cooling system, I have never had this many problems with air. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slick Posted December 8, 2007 Report Share Posted December 8, 2007 The way I do it, seems to work pretty well: Radiator cap off, Turn the car on and let warm up, heater on full blast (hit the AC button so everything is moving properly). Crack the bleeder screw, and watch for fluid and air. If the radiator is looking low, I add my radiator/water mixture into the radiator. This seems to help force the air towards the bleeder screw as well, instead of having it just sit inside the top of the radiator. I keep running and adding until I see a constant stream coming from the bleeder screw. Top off the radiator and put the cap on it, close the bleeder screw, and all set. Has always seemed to work pretty well for me, but I'm sure other's have there variation's of the bleeding process as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
euroman Posted December 8, 2007 Author Report Share Posted December 8, 2007 that is exactly the procedure I use, but still keeps collecting air somehow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Posted December 8, 2007 Report Share Posted December 8, 2007 is it possible you damaged the radiator at all when you swapped engines? i know my sisters car has some small pinholes near the top of her radiator sucking air in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chancho Posted December 8, 2007 Report Share Posted December 8, 2007 Yea i would see if the radiator holds pressure, it could have a pinhole leak somewhere, or it could be leaking from the tanks on the side, that would do it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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