Jump to content

Engine cradle bolts seized


hell_raiser

Recommended Posts

good news the broke free with a big lead pipe near broke my 3/8 drive though lol. car is almost back up!. new subframe on having some problems with stearting rack bolts though.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I brought my 94 cutlas to my job one day and tried to break the rear subframe bolts free with my impact gun and they moved about a quarter inch and now they will not loosn or tighten. I have brand new power steering lines to do but i cannot get to the lines on the rack without dropping the subframe. Any tips??

Link to comment
Share on other sites

How about hitting them with a torch? Doesn't have to be ultra hot, a plumber's propane torch will heat them up good enough.

 

Just be aware of where the fuel lines are........

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah, what nuts? My subframe was just 4 bolts, one on each corner or am I missing something.

 

Also about the breaker bar and pipe, you may get more torque out of that combination, but you have a much greater chance of snapping things.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

here is what i did

 

1. pry it to the left then the right with a lead pipe

2. heat it up

3. lots of pb blaster

4. step 1.

5. step 1.

6. it came loose

7. drink some beer

Link to comment
Share on other sites

here is what i did

 

1. pry it to the left then the right with a lead pipe

2. heat it up

3. lots of pb blaster

4. step 1.

5. step 1.

6. it came loose

7. drink some beer

lolol always works for me. I just did a ford f350super dutys balljoints like that

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

im dropping the subframe to change the alternator on my 93 cutlass 3.4 DOHC, and got the front bolt loose but the rear one is siezed and i broke a socket which stripped it out a little bit, and i cant get any other size socket to grab it. so am i totally screwed or is there another way to get it off?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

weld a piece of metal to it, in a t-bar fashion, then use the metal as an arm and put your pipe on there. or you will have to drill it out. that would be the only 2 ways to get it out if you cannot get a socket on there. did you try using a socket that was a little small and beat it on with a hammer? i used both these methods not long ago when i stripped my Z34 parts car.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

craftsman makes some easy outs that do the job nicely, i had this problem with one of my bolts, i pounded one on and i think a 7/8s socket fit right over it, just had to be careful and it broke free.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...