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Posted

Hit it with as much PB Blaster or similar as possible...u do NOT want to break one...

Posted

good news the broke free with a big lead pipe near broke my 3/8 drive though lol. car is almost back up!. new subframe on having some problems with stearting rack bolts though.

Posted

What's the problem? It's 2 bolts, 2 nuts, a wrench, and a wratchet. They aren't that difficult to access

Posted

someone serviced my 92 vert.... and left the nuts off. no wonder the front tires were worn on the outside edges!

Posted

i changed the whole sub frame. one of the main bolts where seized. i broke a 1/2 inch drive on it!

Posted

ive broken 4 15mm sockets and 1 ratchet trying to break one of my subframe bolts free

Posted

I brought my 94 cutlas to my job one day and tried to break the rear subframe bolts free with my impact gun and they moved about a quarter inch and now they will not loosn or tighten. I have brand new power steering lines to do but i cannot get to the lines on the rack without dropping the subframe. Any tips??

Posted

3/4" drive socket set, with a big ass piece of pipe. Somethings gotta give. :lol:

Posted

guy i just tried to go right then left on the bolts i did that like 20 times then it broke free :high5:

Posted

How about hitting them with a torch? Doesn't have to be ultra hot, a plumber's propane torch will heat them up good enough.

 

Just be aware of where the fuel lines are........

Posted

Definately use a breaker bar with a big long pipe. You'll do more with that combo than most any impact gun.

Posted

What's the problem? It's 2 bolts, 2 nuts, a wrench, and a wratchet. They aren't that difficult to access

 

what nuts?

Posted

Yeah, what nuts? My subframe was just 4 bolts, one on each corner or am I missing something.

 

Also about the breaker bar and pipe, you may get more torque out of that combination, but you have a much greater chance of snapping things.

Posted

here is what i did

 

1. pry it to the left then the right with a lead pipe

2. heat it up

3. lots of pb blaster

4. step 1.

5. step 1.

6. it came loose

7. drink some beer

Posted

here is what i did

 

1. pry it to the left then the right with a lead pipe

2. heat it up

3. lots of pb blaster

4. step 1.

5. step 1.

6. it came loose

7. drink some beer

lolol always works for me. I just did a ford f350super dutys balljoints like that

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

im dropping the subframe to change the alternator on my 93 cutlass 3.4 DOHC, and got the front bolt loose but the rear one is siezed and i broke a socket which stripped it out a little bit, and i cant get any other size socket to grab it. so am i totally screwed or is there another way to get it off?

Posted

weld a piece of metal to it, in a t-bar fashion, then use the metal as an arm and put your pipe on there. or you will have to drill it out. that would be the only 2 ways to get it out if you cannot get a socket on there. did you try using a socket that was a little small and beat it on with a hammer? i used both these methods not long ago when i stripped my Z34 parts car.

Posted

craftsman makes some easy outs that do the job nicely, i had this problem with one of my bolts, i pounded one on and i think a 7/8s socket fit right over it, just had to be careful and it broke free.

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