Jump to content

Gettin the T-belt changed on tuesday, couple questions


SmokesGTP

Recommended Posts

I got a great deal from a local mechanic my family has used for years after 2 shops said they wouldn't do it and 1 shop said 700-900$ and he looked like he hoped I wouldn't accept that :lol: . I think 400$ is a damn good deal. Anyway the plenum has to come off right? What parts should I ask to have replaced with little labor while they are doing this job? I asked him to change the tensioner and all the pulleys and he said he would have a look to see if it was necessary but I'm going to tell him to anyway. I know I should have the O2 sensor replaced but what else? Thanks for the input.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

yes the plenum does have to come off. As far as the pulleys go, GM does recommend replacing the pulleys when the belt is changed. Its just a little insurance and peace of mind. Those plastic pulleys do crack and come apart. I've seen those break and let me tell you , when they break they usually take the belt with it. :) :) :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've looked up the parts and everything, I'm getting the belt, both idlers, tensioner pulley and actuator, new gaskets and misc., O2 sensor, thermostat, new coolant, new radiator hoses, new serp. belt and thats about all I can think of. Looks like about 400-450 dollars worth of parts. I'm replacing the plugs and wires myself. Anything I forgot? This car better run damn good :evil:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

yes the plenum does have to come off. As far as the pulleys go, GM does recommend replacing the pulleys when the belt is changed. Its just a little insurance and peace of mind. Those plastic pulleys do crack and come apart. I've seen those break and let me tell you , when they break they usually take the belt with it. :) :) :)

 

oh, i have seen them break... while i was doin about 90 on the freeway...

 

WHO THE FUCK HAD THE BRIGHT IDEA OF SAVING 1/10 of a damn penny to put plastic pullies instead of metal... that was such a pain in the ass for me... not only did i have to have my car towed, but i had to buy a belt, tensioner pulley, and power steering pump cuz the fucking belt wrapped up on the pump and ripped it clean out...

 

- Justin

Link to comment
Share on other sites

oh, i have seen them break... while i was doin about 90 on the freeway...

 

WHO THE FUCK HAD THE BRIGHT IDEA OF SAVING 1/10 of a damn penny to put plastic pullies instead of metal... that was such a pain in the ass for me... not only did i have to have my car towed, but i had to buy a belt, tensioner pulley, and power steering pump cuz the fucking belt wrapped up on the pump and ripped it clean out...

 

- Justin

 

Talking about the serpentine belt right?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You can thank those brilliant cost-conscious GM engineers for those el cheapo pulleys.

 

Such a nice technologically advanced motor for its time, too.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah, I find out today about my car that they have gotten the wrong parts delivered 3 times! They went through a local dealer who UPSed parts 3 times and everyday they were incorrect. The car has been in there since Monday and they haven't fixed anything besides the brakes which he said was the master cylinder and they are greatly improved. The mech. also told me that they have it torn down and that both idler pulleys broke apart when taking them off and that they had about a 1/4 inch of play in them. This motor is a fuckin joke.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The GM says to remove the upper intake plenum so that you can remove the cam covers to use a tool that holds the cams in place. But It does not HAVE to come off and you don't HAVE to use the tool. I have changed two cam timing belts on my 95 Cutlass, once when I first bought the car (with 148000 miles) and the second time when the powersteering pulley came apart while I was driving down the road. Part of the pulley punctured the plactic timing cover & jammed up an idler pulley (very bad thing).

I do have the tools(the same ones the GM shops have) to do the job, but found it easier to safety wire the cams together (after I aligned the timing marks). The cams do not really move that freely and if, for some reason they do, they can be turned in the opposite direction till the marks line up. Actually the only way I was able to do this is because the factory timing marked were still painted on the cams. If the marks are not present, the plenum & cam covers do have to come off. I did replace the idler pulleys (about $30 each from the dealer) and the cam tensioner pulley (about $75 from the dealer) the second time. The trick I learned that is not mentioned in any manual is that the aft set of cams (closest to the firewall) HAS to be offset one tooth when putting the belt on. When the tensioner is put in and taks up the slack, the timing marks on the aft cams will align.

It took me about 4 or five hours my first time (do to the learning curve) and about 2 hours the second time. If the the painted timing marks are not present, it will take longer. Good luck

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well 1096.34$ later my car runs pretty good. Still needs plugs and wires and they neglected to change most of the other little crap I told them to change even though they had a list! They charged me 5.96$ because they had to rent a cam holddown tool :lol:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...