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battery, alternator, belt prob? help


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Posted

could the problem also be due to a low idle?

 

Yes it can, I think the on-off limit for the CS130 altenators is either 550 or 600 RPM

 

WTF does this mean? On - off limit? What the hell is that?

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Posted

dom0625ss-luwig-durr.jpg

 

 

Wha...?

 

could the problem also be dur to a low idle?

 

:sahurr:

 

 

 

and probably not' date=' unless its idling so low that its not spinning fast enough, which I don't know is possible, unless like mentioned before the belt is slipping

[/quote']

 

i was just not contributing anything relevant

Posted

fix whatever is causing it to idle that low. on startup mine idles around 1200, and then after warm/driving, it idles around 750-800 in gear, not sure in P or N, but probably around 1k

Posted

could the problem also be due to a low idle?

 

Yes it can, I think the on-off limit for the CS130 altenators is either 550 or 600 RPM

 

WTF does this mean? On - off limit? What the hell is that?

 

Belove a certain RPM, altenators will not 'turn on' i.e have no output to prevent damage to themselves...

Posted

oh thats great. the noise sounds like its coming from the top part of the engine any ideas?

Posted

my suggestion, take your belt of and spin all the pulleys by hand, see if any are sticking or not spinning freely

Posted

The sqeal could also be a bad belt (normally) or a bad tensioner allowing too much belt slack... A drive accessory such as a PS pump or the like could be seizing up.

Posted

i took my car to carquest and autozone today and they both said that their is nothing wrong with the alternator or the battery. so im thinking it might be the wiring to the alternator or maybe a fuse somewhere?

Posted

i took my car to carquest and autozone today and they both said that their is nothing wrong with the alternator or the battery. so im thinking it might be the wiring to the alternator or maybe a fuse somewhere?

 

 

So, did they do an 'on vehicle' test??? If so, that is never a 100% accurate answer...

 

If AutoZone did a bench test 'off vehicle' then it's safe to say they are good.

 

 

You could have a starter issue... Bad starters will draw waaaaaaaaaayyyyyyyyyyyyy more power than good ones and can almost completely drain a battery in one start.

Posted

:werd: pop your battery and alternator off (10 minutes tops, and that's if you take a beer break)

 

take them in and have them tested that way

Posted

ok. is there anyway to check to see if the starter is bad, or possibly other symptoms of a bad starter?

Posted

Starter will need to be benchtested. Have AutoZone do it, the equipment they use is one of the best.

Posted

:werd: pop your battery and alternator off (10 minutes tops, and that's if you take a beer break)

 

take them in and have them tested that way

 

 

10 minutes to remove the alternator in a DOHC? :willynilly:

Posted

:werd: pop your battery and alternator off (10 minutes tops, and that's if you take a beer break)

 

take them in and have them tested that way

 

 

10 minutes to remove the alternator in a DOHC? :willynilly:

 

Whell the dohc's are special :confused:

Posted

Hey now... If I still had my S10, I'd be working on a DOHC swap for it! lol.

 

If you're gonna go through the trouble of bench testing the alt on a DOHC... maybe just buy a new one on the principle of the matter, lol.

 

I never took mine off (and it was completely submerged under water, charged @ 18V until it dried out, and charged better than ever afterwards...) but looking at it... I decided it would be... not something I ever wanted to do, lol.

Posted

yea i herd u have to drop the subframe to change the altenator, i mean god damn, could GM have designed any more wearable part any harder to get too... thats worse then some european cars. wearable parts need to be accessable... and thats y i like pushrods, but they have their own problems

Posted

Don't know about the subframe, but you've gotta take off the wheel, inner fender, and I think loosen and/or remove the CV axle

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