Jump to content

97' L36 running poor


White93z34

Recommended Posts

can anyone shed some light on whats going on here?

 

basically, when the car is cold, it is a BITCH to get started, usually takes 3 or greater tries to get it to stay running, and once it is running it runs very poor till it is a little warm, generally it will stumble, and hesitate. however once it is warm it will run pretty good, not excellent, but good.

 

list of recently replaced items

Spark Plugs (NGK)

Plug wires

PCV

Fuel Filter

Battery

Air filter

 

Also I am getting a P0171 code

so I am leaning towards a bad MAF

 

Edit: Also when i take off the oil cap the idle changes and gets weird and there is a lot of suction on the oil cap hole.

thoughts?

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

clean the MAF and see if that helps. takes 2 minutes if you have the security torx bits and the MAF cleaner handy.

 

and you could try the old 'spray around the intake manifold with starter fluid' to check for vacuum leaks.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

don't those older L36's have LIM problems?

 

Yes. Make sure you aren't blowing coolant out the LIM. My mother had a '98 Bonne w/ the L36 and I was driving it the day the Intake Mainfold completely melted. They were made of plastic for awhile. For the day or two that it sat before it got fixed, trying to start it was almost impossible.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

don't those older L36's have LIM problems?

 

Yes. Make sure you aren't blowing coolant out the LIM. My mother had a '98 Bonne w/ the L36 and I was driving it the day the Intake Mainfold completely melted. They were made of plastic for awhile. For the day or two that it sat before it got fixed, trying to start it was almost impossible.

 

what idiot would put plastic near things that get very hot? people designing these motors aren't very smart. and so what if it costs less to make.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Obvioulsy you dont know about the different types of plastic...

 

 

Id start by cleaning the MAF, and also like others have said check for vacuum leaks, as well as the coolant.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

to me it almost sounds like you arn't getting enough spark.

what engines need to run is fuel-air-spark.

 

After you try what the other guys say I say Coilpacks/icm. :confused:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Usually if you have vacuum at the valve cover filler hole the lower PCV valve o-ring is missing ir FUBAR.

Blocking off the PCV air intake at the throttle body with a TB spacer can cause the same condition.

 

Solve this vacuum problem before doing any thing else.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Coolant Temp sensor possibly? If the sensor thinks the engine is 200* the engine will run very bad when cold and will be very lean when it's cold, causing the o2 sensor code.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If the CTS was bad it would be running soo rich youd be blowing black smoke out the tailpipe. When the sensor goes bad the ECM goes to default setting which is it think its -44* outside.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

from my best understandings, the intake gaskets were replaced at one point in the cars life, when I don't know exactly, but I have no coolant in the oil, and the system holds good pressure.

 

as far as the weird vacuum at the valve cover, i am kinda lost there i put a new PCV valve in it, and that seemed to make no difference. i also checked over the vacuum lines, nothing seems to be out of place or leaking

Link to comment
Share on other sites

alright i was at the junkyard today and tore apart an l36, i snagged that O ring out of it as well as a spring that mine was missing that went in overtop of the PCV. and i grabbed a MAF, and the car runs far better now, it starts so much easier, and runs smoother, i think i still have a vaccum leak somewhere, but i'll try and find that tomorrow.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

the tranny is toasted real well, the trans gasket leaks bad, and i think the last owner ran it without any fluid and ruined it real good. now that most of the bigger issues are getting ironed out it is about ready to be towed to the trans shop where it will either get rebuilt or have a used trans put in.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

ok, the car is still a pain to get started up, but not near as bad as it was, for the first few minutes it will run poor, and it stumbles bad if you try and give it gas, is it possible for a bad coil pack to cause this?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...