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best 6x9's


synistershadows

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well thats not good enough for me. it just does not sound right, and I have been spoiled.

 

I turn my head when I look for cars and there is a blank spot. :lol:

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well thats not good enough for me. it just does not sound right, and I have been spoiled.

 

I turn my head when I look for cars and there is a blank spot. :lol:

 

I agree. There need to be two 6x9's in the back. It just doesn't work otherwise. Ask Boulevard. He heard what my sound system is like.

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The only reason i can see to have 6x9s in the back is if you dont have subs and want a little more bass. If you have a good set of comps up front amped and a sub you have no need for rears.

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The only reason i can see to have 6x9s in the back is if you dont have subs and want a little more bass. If you have a good set of comps up front amped and a sub you have no need for rears.

 

I think the whole point of this is sound depth and clarity. Not to mention that the components are up in the front right next to your feet. If you have a passenger while you're driving, the sound gets muffled and blocked off. This is even worse if you're ever carrying passengers in your car and they'd like to hear some music as well. This problem is which substantially alleviated if you have rear 6x9's.

 

For the record, my Polk 6x9's can't play bass worth a shit, but they sure as hell make a big difference when they're plugged in. I had my music blasting with the front components for a while before I installed the amp for the rear 6x9's, so I can personally vouch for the difference it makes.

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Addicted is correct. Go to any SQ competition, and see what everyone is doing. If they have rear speakers, they are stock. Generally, there are none. Usually a 3-4 way component set-up in the front (with the speakers placed, aimed, and tuned to the vehicle) with a sub or two in the trunk. If there are rear speakers, it's generally for fill only.

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so you agree that they are needed. my point exactly.

 

I thought you were saying to not have rear speakers at all.

 

yes, rear fill is a must. and I am in to SQ.

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Never said needed, but if they are there, then only for rear fill.

 

Let me put it to you this way, I wouldn't waste money on buying anything for the rear. Using the stock speakers will be more than sufficient.

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ok well i got the speakers now and i need to know the 6x9's that i got have what i think is a crossover its got 2 wires coming out one end which is supposed to go to the stock spakers and the other end has for wires comming out 2 to each side of the 6x9 and looking at the stock 6x9 it has 4 wires going into it now what are these 4 wires for and how would i go about hooking it up to the kappa 6x9?

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  • 3 weeks later...

ok so help me out if im wrong here but on the kappa i have a place for 2 wires on each side kinda like the factory i guessing 2 would be for the tweeter the other 2 for the acctual 6x9 part? if this is the case im looking at buying a smaller 200watt MTX amp for the 6x9's and if i wire it up so that the amp is running the 6x9 portion and my HU runs the tweeter portion i should be able to get more of a sub type of effect with the 6x9's and amp?

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i can't make a judgment call without listening to a car with no rear speakers, until i hear one. or something. but it does seem odd. i am trying to associate it with just having a receiver and floor speakers in a house.

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ok so help me out if im wrong here but on the kappa i have a place for 2 wires on each side

if each speaker has a pos/neg on two sides, then it is a dual voice coil speaker.

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i explained that to him in the other thred

whats with the 4 wires to the rear speakers then?

 

its becase its Dual Voice Coils.... Now that would only be so if they were NOT the stock speakers.

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So you're saying that stock, you can't have dual voice coil?

Well i guys you could. I did say that wrong. But i have not seen any thats came stock with Dule Voice Coils.

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all cutless supremes i ever had had duel voice coils one is 10 ohm and the outher is 4 i have one in my had now actualy lol :mrgreen: they are in the prem audio pack

 

i think 95 and up cuttys had them

 

all my cuttys had them i must take a pic

 

2 wires are for the mid bass and tweeter and 2 are for lower bass the stuff that moves ur rearview mirror

 

btw srry for sp im in a rush lol

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what wires run from the stock amp up to the HU? and would it be possible to wire the stock amp up to my aftermarket HU?? and still be able to use the bass boost switch?

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so you agree that they are needed. my point exactly.

 

I thought you were saying to not have rear speakers at all.

 

yes, rear fill is a must. and I am in to SQ.

 

You are a damned tool and shouldnt be commenting on stuff you know not of.

 

Rear speakers are a total waste, even considering rear fill. Simple fact is most peoples rear speakers are where?

 

On the rear deck. This aims directly at the glass, creates some nasty cancellation, distortion and most importantly it raises the sound level very HIGH.

 

If you want rear fill, it MUST be a mono signal and it MUST be down low. Low meaning where the bench part of the seat is, no higher. Furthermore it has to be attenuated so that you cant possibly pick it out apart from the front stage. If you can pick it out it detracts from the front stage and rightfully so degrades the systems overall SQ.

 

Original poster...

 

I hate 6x9's. They generally suck at reproducing good sound. I would look at this in a few ways and routes.

 

1) The I dont care route. In which case I would say go for the Infinty Reference 2 ways. Anything decent 2 ways. Dont get 3 or 4 ways they are a total waste!

 

2) A chance to sound better, get a set of 6 1/2" speakers in the back. They will provide overall better sound and more mid bass.

 

3) Get 6x9 subwoofers. Yes you read it right, subwoofers. http://www.partsexpress.com Tang Band. Power them babies right and get some decent fronts. Would make a good cheap stealth system.

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Dude, get off the damn kids ass. He is not looking for professional, competition or show audio system. He just wants direction on what to do next.

 

It sounds like you have the headunit already installed. I looked up the specs of the headunit and saw that they are 4V preouts which are great! Really makes a difference on the power drain the amps will create whenever you hook up a sub. The 4V preouts allow your amps to work less for the same amount of output. Simply said, the 4V preouts will help out a lot when you hook up amps.

 

Must people say that speakers like dash speakers and rear deck speakers play into the glass which causes cancellation and/or distortion? This is true in a way but very wrong. Every speaker is different, from tweeters to subs. Each speaker’s sound needs to travel a certain distance to supply the best sound. A speaker sounds very bad if installed to close your ears. Rear deck speakers tend to need about 6-7 feet of travel for optimum sound and tweeters about 7' for better sound. 4x6 are about 4-5' for best sound. Continue what you’re doing.

Below I wrote some advice and suggestions. Good luck with your project.

 

Kenwood Excelon will knock your socks off. Infinity Kappas are way over priced, but in a way so are Kenwood Excelons. You can try Alpine S-series but I already found myself replacing the 4x6 upgrading to the Kenwood Excelons. I'm sure you can get Kenwood Exxcelon 4x6s and 6x9s for about $220 for both pairs at most on some online retailers. Match those with a quality amp and you should be straight, I suggest a Pioneer Premier amp or a Kenwood Excelon. You will not be dissappointed with either or. You will have great sound but not much real bass. Stock speakers don’t supply bass as it is. Stock speakers only supply that thump sound, but that’s far from bass. The best way I can suggest you to upgrade your system is to simply over-ride your stock amp and remove it. You can remove all the stock wiring to the amp which are ran on the driver side under the carpet in the black plastic track. Disconnect your battery while you do this work. Cut the power wire to the stock amp under the dash near the driver side door and wrap it in electrical tape (thats where it is on the Lumina Z34s). Remove the stock amp and al your stock speakers. Remove your dash top and re-run new speaker wire from the dash to the trunk. Snake the speaker wire through the dash and drop it down to under the dash, pull the wiring down to the track and pull it to the trunk with about an extra 4'. Provide zip ties along the way in order to prevent the wire from becoming visible. Repeat for other side. Zip tie new speaker wire under the rear deck with about 5-8"s of slack at the point of speaker hook up. Drop about another 5' in the trunk. Run a 4-guage power wire (buy an amp kit for two amps, Rockford Fosgate wiring preferred which you can get at Best Buy) from the battery to the trunk and the remote wire from the headunit to the trunk in the driver side track and run the two sets of RCAs from the headunit to the trunk on the passenger side track. Label both ends of the RCAs with front on one wire (on each end) and rear on the other. Connect front labeled RCAs to the front preouts and same as for the rear RCAs. Connect amp, install speakers, reconnect amp and you should be straight.

 

If you buy low priced items expect low quality.

 

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Dude, get off the damn kids ass. He is not looking for professional, competition or show audio system. He just wants direction on what to do next.

 

It sounds like you have the headunit already installed. I looked up the specs of the headunit and saw that they are 4V preouts which are great! Really makes a difference on the power drain the amps will create whenever you hook up a sub. The 4V preouts allow your amps to work less for the same amount of output. Simply said, the 4V preouts will help out a lot when you hook up amps.

 

Must people say that speakers like dash speakers and rear deck speakers play into the glass which causes cancellation and/or distortion? This is true in a way but very wrong. Every speaker is different, from tweeters to subs. Each speaker’s sound needs to travel a certain distance to supply the best sound. A speaker sounds very bad if installed to close your ears. Rear deck speakers tend to need about 6-7 feet of travel for optimum sound and tweeters about 7' for better sound. 4x6 are about 4-5' for best sound. Continue what you’re doing.

Below I wrote some advice and suggestions. Good luck with your project.

 

Kenwood Excelon will knock your socks off. Infinity Kappas are way over priced, but in a way so are Kenwood Excelons. You can try Alpine S-series but I already found myself replacing the 4x6 upgrading to the Kenwood Excelons. I'm sure you can get Kenwood Exxcelon 4x6s and 6x9s for about $220 for both pairs at most on some online retailers. Match those with a quality amp and you should be straight, I suggest a Pioneer Premier amp or a Kenwood Excelon. You will not be dissappointed with either or. You will have great sound but not much real bass. Stock speakers don’t supply bass as it is. Stock speakers only supply that thump sound, but that’s far from bass. The best way I can suggest you to upgrade your system is to simply over-ride your stock amp and remove it. You can remove all the stock wiring to the amp which are ran on the driver side under the carpet in the black plastic track. Disconnect your battery while you do this work. Cut the power wire to the stock amp under the dash near the driver side door and wrap it in electrical tape (thats where it is on the Lumina Z34s). Remove the stock amp and al your stock speakers. Remove your dash top and re-run new speaker wire from the dash to the trunk. Snake the speaker wire through the dash and drop it down to under the dash, pull the wiring down to the track and pull it to the trunk with about an extra 4'. Provide zip ties along the way in order to prevent the wire from becoming visible. Repeat for other side. Zip tie new speaker wire under the rear deck with about 5-8"s of slack at the point of speaker hook up. Drop about another 5' in the trunk. Run a 4-guage power wire (buy an amp kit for two amps, Rockford Fosgate wiring preferred which you can get at Best Buy) from the battery to the trunk and the remote wire from the headunit to the trunk in the driver side track and run the two sets of RCAs from the headunit to the trunk on the passenger side track. Label both ends of the RCAs with front on one wire (on each end) and rear on the other. Connect front labeled RCAs to the front preouts and same as for the rear RCAs. Connect amp, install speakers, reconnect amp and you should be straight.

 

If you buy chinese speakers expect low quality.

 

 

fixed!

 

the best speakers you can buy are made in USA or europe. the best subs are USA period.

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