IRONDOG442 Posted October 18, 2007 Report Share Posted October 18, 2007 Alright guys here’s a situation I have been dealing with for the past two years with my wife Marie’s Intrigue and now I am dealing with the same issue on another Intrigue I recently sold so I know it’s a relatively common problem for these cars. Here are the symptoms; 1.When cars are started the Automatic Climate Control display does not appear and the heater controls are totally inoperable. Sometime later after the car has been driving for a bit the unit come back on, or if you turn on the rear defroster the unit shuts off again. 2.The cruise control on Maries car works once out of every 25 times also the compass on the mirrors flickers on and off, my friends Intrigue cruise control does not function at all or when it does the cruise light comes on and works for a second then shuts right off. 3.The automatic headlights flash on and off and the fog lights do not work when this is occurring. When the heeadlights are turned on manually they do not cut out. One day I get in the car and everything works, as it should the next day nothing I mentioned previously works. Here is what I have done to remedy the problem. 1.Replaced Maries HVAC unit with mine, which I know works, her unit works fine in my car. 2.Replaced Marie’s alternator and battery with new units. 3.Replaced Marie’s Cruise Control Module with my unit which I know works. 4.Switched all Fuses and relays relating to this problem Here’s what I have figured out. 1.The cars PCM obviously has an order of operations of things it depowers as voltage is in short supply for example the car will eliminate the cruise control first instead of the brake lights or other pertinent safety equipment. This order is always the same and very systematic. 2.When the unit does come on if I turn the AC off on Maries car the HVAC unit does not fade away and if I wait several minutes before turning the AC on after the car has been running, I usually do not lose the display unless there is a huge demand for power elsewhere like the rear defroster. 3.The problem seems more prominent on warmer days/ I went through the GM service manuals and looked the cruise control schematic and beyond damaged linkage bad fuse or relay, and cruise control module. The manual suggests short in one of 5 different circuits throughout the car?!?!?!?! HELP A BROTHER OUT HERE MAN, WHAT IT DO? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
digitaloutsider Posted October 18, 2007 Report Share Posted October 18, 2007 Have you swapped BCM's? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IRONDOG442 Posted October 18, 2007 Author Report Share Posted October 18, 2007 Yes and the cars didnt do ANYTHING AT ALL! They fuckin hated it NOTHING at all worked on either car in fact Marie's didnt recover for like 15 minutes after they were replaced, maybe if i swapped BCMs and Vats Modules as well..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slick Posted October 18, 2007 Report Share Posted October 18, 2007 I'm gonna say grounding issues among other things. Do the ground wires feel nice and hot (well hotter than they should feel) when your running multiple accessories? BTW, this wouldn't be the first time I've heard of an overly excessive amount of electrical problems with Oldsmobile's. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockfangd Posted October 19, 2007 Report Share Posted October 19, 2007 i would be more than willing to say it is the ignition switch. I have changed very many of these with similair issues. The heat is intermittent, the DRLs go crazy, hud goes crazy (if equipped) I would almost be willing to put money on the ignition switch. It has 2 sides, one starts the car and the other one provides power to all of the necessary circuits. Easy way to test the switch is to remove the lower column and probe the thick orange wire, if it probes ground with the key on it is a bad ignition switch, if it tests positive it is not the problem sometimes. just to refresh the ignition switch is theswitch under the ignition and has the black plug under the dash for the PCM. best of luck on the situation. It is very common . also i forgot to add it is a very intermittent problem. It all depends on if the contacts line up or not in the switch, sometimes it will work, sometimes it wont work, and sometimes it goes on and off Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BCM Posted October 19, 2007 Report Share Posted October 19, 2007 Have you swapped BCM's? I am not swapable. Sorry. So is this why you offered to sell it to me for $3k? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IRONDOG442 Posted October 19, 2007 Author Report Share Posted October 19, 2007 No that was the Columbus car, and whn I drove this car home from Boston and put 1,000 miles on it driving it around town none of these problems were observed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IRONDOG442 Posted October 19, 2007 Author Report Share Posted October 19, 2007 i would be more than willing to say it is the ignition switch. I have changed very many of these with similair issues. The heat is intermittent, the DRLs go crazy, hud goes crazy (if equipped) I would almost be willing to put money on the ignition switch. It has 2 sides, one starts the car and the other one provides power to all of the necessary circuits. Easy way to test the switch is to remove the lower column and probe the thick orange wire, if it probes ground with the key on it is a bad ignition switch, if it tests positive it is not the problem sometimes. just to refresh the ignition switch is theswitch under the ignition and has the black plug under the dash for the PCM. best of luck on the situation. It is very common . also i forgot to add it is a very intermittent problem. It all depends on if the contacts line up or not in the switch, sometimes it will work, sometimes it wont work, and sometimes it goes on and off I'll swap ignition switches and let you know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockfangd Posted October 20, 2007 Report Share Posted October 20, 2007 dont make the mistake i first made and try a junkyard one. It was just as bad as the one that i had in the car to begin with. The best tip i can give you is do not forget the most important tool for removal of the switch. It is a E4 reverse torx bit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slick Posted October 20, 2007 Report Share Posted October 20, 2007 The intrigue's don't need that tool to get the ignition switch out. You use a flathead screwdriver to push down on a tab, turn the key to the on position, and pull the entire switch out. It's seriously a 5 minute job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IRONDOG442 Posted October 20, 2007 Author Report Share Posted October 20, 2007 Or less... I love the dash mounted ignition switch, I will use my ignition switch in my car which I know works !! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted October 20, 2007 Report Share Posted October 20, 2007 it's been more than ten minutes. results? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockfangd Posted October 20, 2007 Report Share Posted October 20, 2007 it's been more than ten minutes. results? lol The intrigue's don't need that tool to get the ignition switch out. You use a flathead screwdriver to push down on a tab, turn the key to the on position, and pull the entire switch out. It's seriously a 5 minute job. I completely forgot the intrigue is like the malibus with it on the dash instead of the column, my bad. still an easy job Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IRONDOG442 Posted November 27, 2007 Author Report Share Posted November 27, 2007 Rock you indeed rock that was the problem the car is 100% again !! YIPPIE !!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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