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speed bleeders


millerwl71

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I have a 92 Z34 and just replaced my rear calipers. I purchased speed bleeders to make the procedure quick and easy. Thought it would be, but instructions were not clear. I understanding you open it 1/4 turn, and pump brakes until clean fluid comes through with no bubbles, then tighten and go on to the next. Well it only took me like one full pump and it was clear with no bubbles. I then read I should have to pump at least 5 times per caliper. Should I do that, or is that a waste of time meaning there is something else wrong. My brakes are spongy as hell. I have to press the brake pedal is all the way down to it's limit to brake. So my question is, does anyone have speed bleeders, and what procedure did you use. I was also wondering since the bleeders have the check valves that don't allow any air back in, why can't you just open all 4 bleeders a 1/4 turn and pump away? Thanks

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i would keep bleeding it. there is still potentially air in the lines that havent made it to the caliper yet.

 

do not open all 4 bleeders at once as the master cyclinder will run out of fluid fast and then you'll be sucking air in there. then you'll be bleeding your brakes all day!

 

to further increase your brake pedal firmness, you may look into getting some SS braided brake lines. tirerack carries them for your car.

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Bad hoses, a small leak, bad master cylinder or bad caliper can all cause spongey brake pedal. Speed bleeders make it a whole lot easier since you don't need 2 people to crack the bleeder to keep pumping up pressure. I would do 5 or 6 pumps, slowly, on each bleeder, refilling the master after each caliper. You should be doing one by one to optimize pressure on each bleeder.

 

As Andrew said, look into replacing the lines, thats a typical problem with these cars. inspect all the brake lines for leaks as well as the calipers.

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I'd bleed it all good and make sure the master is topped off once done. Do you have a brake light on, on your cluster? Might be a seal in the master that is leaking (most likely one of the pressure cups on either piston)...this is sorta cool since I'm taking brakes right now in school lol

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Do speedbleeders really work? What stops the system from sucking air in through the threads?

I have one of those vacuum pump "one man brake bleeder kits" and it never really worked well because it would suck air in through the threads.

 

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Do speedbleeders really work? What stops the system from sucking air in through the threads?

I have one of those vacuum pump "one man brake bleeder kits" and it never really worked well because it would suck air in through the threads.

http://www.speedbleeder.com/feature.htm

Introducing SPEED BLEEDER®, the patented bleeder screw with the built-in check valve. It is truly a one-person bleeder screw. Once installed, it becomes a permanent part of the brake system. When it is time to bleed your brakes, you loosen the Speed Bleeder 1/4 turn and pump your brake pedal. When the pedal is depressed the pressure generated opens the check valve letting air and brake fluid out of the end of the Speed Bleeder. When you release the pedal and it returns to the up position, the check valve closes and prevents any air from reentering the system through the Speed Bleeder. When bubble free fluid is evident you close the Speed Bleeder. In the closed position it works just like your stock bleeder screw and prevents any brake fluid from leaking out. It generally takes about 5 pumps to purge each caliper or wheel cylinder. That is all there is to bleeding your brakes. If at a later date you need to bleed your brakes, the patented thread sealing system makes it easy to open the bleeder screw to perform the bleeding operation. It is made of quality materials and it is economical.

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Do speedbleeders really work? What stops the system from sucking air in through the threads?

I have one of those vacuum pump "one man brake bleeder kits" and it never really worked well because it would suck air in through the threads.

 

 

Ya know, I had the same thought till I used them (and watched carefully), didnt let any air in and had a real firm pedal.

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