Intlcutlass Posted July 8, 2003 Report Share Posted July 8, 2003 Can someone send me the directions (or better yet, tach it onto this topic for all to read) on how to do this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SleeperRed90TGp Posted July 8, 2003 Report Share Posted July 8, 2003 Drawing is at the bottom coils mounted at top. Instructions below. Don't know if your car is the same but this should still help. http://photo.starblvd.net/sleeperred90tgp?st=album&pg=0&ro=4&co=3&logout=1&pw=*F343F0AE76E Tools and material Hack saw or saber saw File med to fine tape measure and a pencil, a try square is helpfully Reversible drill motor rpm not important, slow is better .400 to .437 drill .150 to .159 drill no bigger. 10-32 tap About 25' of 18 ga wire Soldering gun and solder Plain alum foil from your kitchen Electrical tape Plastic wire enclosure ( the stuff that's all over our cars.) wire cutter/stripper 1x1x.125 (1/8 alum angle from low's or home depot or any hardware store. strong back( you have to lean way over for an hour or so) I put my car on ramps to do most all work in the engine compartment. A pair of spring clamps or vise grips to hold the ign module to the angle bracket time about four hours. Directions: This is not really tough but you do have to make sure you don't cross wires. therefore I suggest that you do one wire at a time as I did. It takes longer to wire it than to make the bracket. Take the entire ign module off. Three bolts. Store the alum mounting bracket. you may want to return it to stock. Save the spark plug wire holder you will use it later. Cut the wires about 3'' from the connectors. Don't worry they are color coded. I staggered them so I didn't have a big bump when I taped them. I assume you have made your bracket? If not cut the alum angle to 15 3/8. cut down both ends to 2 1/2 inches then cut the short side off. That leaves you with one full inch of material. Clean it up with a file. needs to be smooth. Do the long notch on the left side facing the motor( the drawing is if you were standing in front of the car.) This notch clears the fan shroud. You can drill your holes now or after you have bent it. Now is easier. TCS (touch counter sink) only the dogbone mounting holes.) do not tcs the tapped holes for the coil mounting. Line up your ign module on the angle where you want it. Centered works fine. allow for the wiring harness. You can basically put the module along the edge of the angle and spot drill with a .250 drill to mark the spot. Drill these holes to .150 to .159 no bigger, tap with a 10-32 tap (yes I know there metric) . You are better off using a drill to tap these holes than by hand. you wont wobble with a drill motor ( don’t forget to stop) You need a forged thread with only .125 (factory has a pierce and extrude which give an extra thread and a half materiel. this procedure will give you a very strong thread and hold the coils because you are only going to use one screw per coil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluegp Posted July 9, 2003 Report Share Posted July 9, 2003 I once asked an aftermarket ignition parts rep at a show about this. He said that the module/coil packs use the engine block as a heat sink and implied that if they were relocated, they may burn up. Does anyone think there is any truth to this? I do know that in use they get so hot that you can't touch them, but I would think that a lot of heat would be transfered from the block to the module. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lukee1982 Posted July 9, 2003 Report Share Posted July 9, 2003 I once asked an aftermarket ignition parts rep at a show about this. He said that the module/coil packs use the engine block as a heat sink and implied that if they were relocated, they may burn up. Does anyone think there is any truth to this? I do know that in use they get so hot that you can't touch them, but I would think that a lot of heat would be transfered from the block to the module. well the way i see it is that the coils are under the exaust manifold so actually the engine and the exaust are using the coils as a heat sink Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redfox340 Posted July 9, 2003 Report Share Posted July 9, 2003 Can someone send me the directions (or better yet, tach it onto this topic for all to read) on how to do this? You may want to PM Brian89GP since he's done in on his DOHC. Check his site for pictures / details: http://www.brian89gp.com/engine/coils.htm - Erik Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lukee1982 Posted July 9, 2003 Report Share Posted July 9, 2003 take off each coil using a 4.5mm socket. then remove the icm which is held on only by the coils extend wires for the icm as sleeper said. and make some type of bracket to hold them where you want them. passenger side strut brace is common bbender85 did this to his car Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
patgizz Posted July 9, 2003 Report Share Posted July 9, 2003 i put my battery in the trunk, and put my coil packs and air filter over there in the battery tray with an aluminum heat shield. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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