PowerStop Rotors, Bendix CT-3 Pads, Painted Calipers

[xtremerevolution]

RAWR!!

 

 

 

 

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=PWR%2DAR%2D8254R&N=700+4294908256+4294908243+4294924755+4294840137+4294922533+4294859634+115&autoview=sku

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=PWR%2DAR%2D8254L&N=700+4294908256+4294908243+4294924755+4294840137+4294922533+4294859634+115&autoview=sku

 

I can't floor the brakes too hard yet till the rotors break in and the pads set, but so far I've noticed a pretty huge difference.

 

My old rotors will be up for sale soon. They don't have more than 20,000 miles on them, and no warping whatsoever.

 

I'm posting this because I know a few of you guys told me you were interested in some new high performance front brake rotors. I'll let you all know how my experience with these is in a few hundred miles.

[Andrew]

i dunno about silver paint on calipers, but if you like it then okay!

 

by the way, teh proper brake in for new pads and rotors is several hard stops, each time increasing speed by 10mph increments. also be sure that you dont stop completely, just to a slow roll. start at 20mph, work your way up to 60, and give your brakes a minute or two to cool off between each hard braking.

[19Cutlass94]

All that and you stick with the stock rubber lines?! ( what looks to be )

 

BTW, drilled rotors FTL... I dont like em. But looks good

 

[xtremerevolution]

All that and you stick with the stock rubber lines?! ( what looks to be )

 

BTW, drilled rotors FTL... I dont like em. But looks good

 

 

So where do I get better brake lines? Would I just get some custom brake lines made for this car to replace the rubber ones? I never really thought about doing that. I had heard that I could go to some auto store and have them pre-bend me some brake lines for my car (or I could buy some and bend it myself). Any help on this would be greatly appreciated.

 

As for them being drilled, I was going to get the EBC Slotted/dimpled rotors, but they had sent me the wrong ones (see thread in this same section), and those were back ordered as it was. I wasn't going to wait ANOTHER 3 weeks for them to ship me out a new pair, so I just went with drilled. They weren't cheap, so I'm hoping they'll last me a while.

 

i dunno about silver paint on calipers, but if you like it then okay!

 

by the way, teh proper brake in for new pads and rotors is several hard stops, each time increasing speed by 10mph increments. also be sure that you dont stop completely, just to a slow roll. start at 20mph, work your way up to 60, and give your brakes a minute or two to cool off between each hard braking.

 

I was going to paint them red, but I had left the red spray paint at home. If I end up replacing the brake lines, I'll paint the calipers red. that will work especially well since you can only see a small bit of the rotors through the regal's stock 15" rims. It should stand out quite well, but subtly.

 

As for the break in, I had simply read that it took a while for the pads to properly set. I didn't know it was any different for the rotors. I guess I'll have to break them in using your method. I only took the car out around the block once, so it shouldn't be too big of a deal if I didn't do that immediately. My first stop was from 15 mph, and my second from 30. The third stop was from 45.

 

Oh well. I doubt it would have messed them up either way.

[Andrew]

doing the stops like you did, you should be ok.

 

and i believe you can get the better brake lines from tirerack, Goodridge is the brand.

[Bake82]

doing the stops like you did, you should be ok.

 

and i believe you can get the better brake lines from tirerack, Goodridge is the brand.

 

Yup. They only replace the rubber portion of the brake line. I think they run aruond 100-120 shipped for all 4 corners. I hear they make a world of difference....

[Euro]

I haven't been too happy with those Bendix pads. They dust like a bitch and I have to pull mine off sometime soon cause they're squeeling again

[xtremerevolution]

I haven't been too happy with those Bendix pads. They dust like a bitch and I have to pull mine off sometime soon cause they're squeeling again

 

The CT-3's? So far they're doing a lot better than the pads I had before power wise.

[93CutlassSupreme]

Most of the braking difference is in the pads.

 

I had slotted rotors on my CS for a short while and there was no difference. What a waste of money that was.

[turbojohn]

When I get to this point on my TGP restore project car. I'll be ordering up a set of these rotors, they look very nice. Did you rebuild those calipers yourself? Was it difficult bleeding the brakes with the GMIII system?

[xtremerevolution]

When I get to this point on my TGP restore project car. I'll be ordering up a set of these rotors, they look very nice. Did you rebuild those calipers yourself? Was it difficult bleeding the brakes with the GMIII system?

 

The brakes weren't an issue at all. Bleeding the brakes is quite easy as well. As for the rotors, all I used was some high heat aluminum paint from my nearest auto store. I'll probably paint them red so they barely shine through the stock rims. Subtle yet catchy.

 

I did replace the bushings on the brake calipers though. That just required some pliers to pull the original bushings out and put new ones in. I would highly suggest getting these, since they tend to wear out and the caliper starts to bang against the rotor when you drive over a rough surface. The bushings should be about $15 for both sides.

 

Nice thing about the rotors is that they're zinc plated. I could have gotten cheaper ones, but I hate seeing rusted up rotors where the pads don't touch.

 

The calipers need a T-60 torx bit for the two bolts that hold the brackets on. I'll give you a fair warning, those were a huge bitch to get loose. Even with some liquid wrench, they took some really hard pushing. I would highly suggest finding an impact wrench to take those off if you can. If not, get yourself a nice long socket wrench because you'll need the extra torque.

 

 

[slick]

The calipers need a T-60 torx bit for the two bolts that hold the brackets on. I'll give you a fair warning, those were a huge bitch to get loose. Even with some liquid wrench, they took some really hard pushing. I would highly suggest finding an impact wrench to take those off if you can. If not, get yourself a nice long socket wrench because you'll need the extra torque.

 

Tip: Next time you go to do those, turn your front wheel all the way, so you have tons of leverage. Stick a pipe over your wrench, and go to town. Breaks loose in no time.

 

I was using a 450ft-lb impact, didn't budge.

[xtremerevolution]

The calipers need a T-60 torx bit for the two bolts that hold the brackets on. I'll give you a fair warning, those were a huge bitch to get loose. Even with some liquid wrench, they took some really hard pushing. I would highly suggest finding an impact wrench to take those off if you can. If not, get yourself a nice long socket wrench because you'll need the extra torque.

 

Tip: Next time you go to do those, turn your front wheel all the way, so you have tons of leverage. Stick a pipe over your wrench, and go to town. Breaks loose in no time.

 

I was using a 450ft-lb impact, didn't budge.

 

LOL. Wow.

 

I used this:

 

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10051&productId=100029685&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&PID=1319015&cm_mmc=CJ-_-shopping_com-_-D25X-_-100029685&cpncode=09-40883066-2&URL=http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/BuildLinkToHomeDepot?linktype=product&id=100029685&cm_mmc=CJ-_-shopping_com-_-D25X-_-100029685&AID=10368321&cj=true&srccode=cii_13736960

 

The whole point about it is that it extends to give you more torque, although a pipe would have caused me quite a bit less muscle strain.

[turbojohn]

WOW Sounds like they don't want those bolts to fall out. Thanks for the tips, I'll get the appropriate sized 10ft cheater pipe ready before jacking the car up. Sometimes if you lay things like that around the car, it knows you're seriouse. They know, vehicles aren't stupid Sometimes I'll get the 3/4 impact gun out with a 1/2" air hose. Just so it knows I'm ready for battle

[slick]

I've just ran into those problems. It generally happens after the first time it was done was at a shop, retightened with an impact wrench. I know whenever I put my brakes back together, if I don't have any anti-sieze around, I use a dab of grease on the bolts.

[93CutlassSupreme]

Damn. These bolts aren't that hard to get off.

[slick]

Damn. These bolts aren't that hard to get off.

 

I've ran into it. Like I said, the one time I had to do it, a 450 ft-lb impact wrench was already attempted on them, with no luck.

[Euro]

I haven't been too happy with those Bendix pads. They dust like a bitch and I have to pull mine off sometime soon cause they're squeeling again

 

The CT-3's? So far they're doing a lot better than the pads I had before power wise.

 

Yeah, like $80 pads FTL

[Nick1234]

looks good! yeah i spend like $30 on my shitty wearever pads or whatever the hell they are at advanced, no real problems other than the fact they creat a lot of dust. cheap rotors too. shits going to warp either way. and rust......

[Euro]

looks good! yeah i spend like $30 on my shitty wearever pads or whatever the hell they are at advanced, no real problems other than the fact they creat a lot of dust. cheap rotors too. shits going to warp either way. and rust......

 

Yeah I bought the $30 Wearever rotors for the rears too. Cheap, and work pretty well.

[19Cutlass94]

Damn. These bolts aren't that hard to get off.

 

I've ran into it. Like I said, the one time I had to do it, a 450 ft-lb impact wrench was already attempted on them, with no luck.

 

They need to be tight.. but not nearly that tight!

[Euro]

the bolts on my Lumina sucked ass to get off too. I'm not sure why, but my GP's were loads easier to get off.

[xtremerevolution]

I haven't been too happy with those Bendix pads. They dust like a bitch and I have to pull mine off sometime soon cause they're squeeling again

 

The CT-3's? So far they're doing a lot better than the pads I had before power wise.

 

Yeah, like $80 pads FTL

 

I paid $62 for them, retail, after tax... For the performance I'm getting on these as compared to the $40 pads I had last time, I'm definitely not complaining.

 

shits going to warp either way. and rust......

 

Not if they're zinc plated like mine are. That's one of the main reasons I decided to get new front rotors. I couldn't stand the look of rusted rotors through my 5-spoke 17's.

[joey b]

who was it that had to take a cutting wheel to the bracket to get the rotor off? Yeah, sometimes they can be quite a bitch to get off. I've broken off a T60 clean inside of one of those damn bolts. I had to use a pipe wrench with a 2 foot bar over it to get those turned.

[xtremerevolution]

who was it that had to take a cutting wheel to the bracket to get the rotor off? Yeah, sometimes they can be quite a bitch to get off. I've broken off a T60 clean inside of one of those damn bolts. I had to use a pipe wrench with a 2 foot bar over it to get those turned.

 

Thank God I bought an expensive T60, because I swear I felt like it was about to rip off at any second with the amount of pressure I was putting on it.