Cubey Posted September 18, 2007 Report Share Posted September 18, 2007 Hello all. I recently purchased an '88 Buick Regal for dirt cheap from a lady who needed to sell it to pay her utility bills. The car cranks up fine every time and idles fine for its age, mileage (190,400 miles) and overall condition. It sits there and idles fine (maybe a bit rough but not alarmingly so). When I shift from park to any other gear, the car lurches harshly immidately (no delay) then proceeds to operate normally except for what I am about to explain below. I have checked the trans fluid and its medium red'ish/light brown'ish transparent with no metal flakes so there isn't any burning or grinding (or at least not badly enough to effect the fluid yet?). I had someone at a repair shop look at the fluid on the dip stick and was told the fluid is fine and at the proper level so that has ruled out as a possibility. Now here is the other problem I am having with it. When at a complete stop and I take off, the engine seems to rev up fine and the car pretty much immediately takes off with I step on the gas, however it seems like it doesn't have much power in first gear. It does take off without any trans slipping, it just has some trouble taking off from a dead stop. Once it gets into second gear(?) and above the car takes off much better. When going 30mph+ it does perfectly fine. All the gears above first seems to shift fine and smoothly, unless I mishandle the gas panel (ie: take my foot off due to some idiot cutting in close then turning, so then I step again quickly on it and it has a rough gear shift). May just be how I'm handling the gas petal since I've had similar (although less harsh) gear shifts on my full size van which has no trans or engine problems to my knowledge. The car seems to have some slight problem with hills but it *can* take off from a complete stop and climb a steep hill. It just has some strain until it gets to a higher gear. I have discovered that the PCV hose (if I'm not mistaken) needs replacing. It is a hard plastic hose that just pushes & pulls in & out (no clamps) and one end is all chewed up on one end where it goes into the crankcase(?) and doesn't really have any kind of a tight connection and seems to be leaking oil a small bit during driving. Here is a photo of the hard plastic PCV hose and the leaking spot I am referencing: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v222/illiop/88_buick_regal_engine2.jpg I will be checking local salvage yards for this part as it seems to be an elusive part that can't be purchased at any auto parts stores and would have to be custom made by a repair shop. Could this and/or the PCV valve, or just needing a full tune up be the problem or does this sound more like a transmission problem? I picked up the Chilton repair manual for this vehicle from the local public library but it does not include many diagrams nor does it say where the PCV valve/hose should be. In one photo I saw of a Lexus engine (I know, very different engine) the PCV valve was right on top, like where this damage PCV hose is. If that is where it goes maybe that is the problem, no PCV valve plus a damaged PCV hose. Here is a photo of the entire engine in case anyone wishes to see it for aiding in a reply: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v222/illiop/88_buick_regal_engine1.jpg Thanks for any help anyone can provide! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
93CutlassSupreme Posted September 19, 2007 Report Share Posted September 19, 2007 the hose you circled shouldn't have a PCV valve in it. The PCV valve is located between the Intake and Firewall. You'll feel it. btw, That hose cracks with age, and the upper intake has to be pulled to change it. You usually have to pull the intake to change the PCV valve too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
digitaloutsider Posted September 19, 2007 Report Share Posted September 19, 2007 The hose you're referencing doesn't do much of anything. It doesn't have anything to do with the car running poorly. I wouldn't even worry about it. Whatever oil that's coming out of it is getting splashed up from the valves. And yes, the intake plenum has to be removed to change the PCV valve. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Regal_GS_1989 Posted September 19, 2007 Report Share Posted September 19, 2007 I'm guessing a combination of the vacuum modulator going/gone bad, and a bad ICM/Coilpack/plug/wire (Something spark related) The vacuum modulator would cause the rough shifts, and the spark issue could cause the bucking that your describing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GutlessSupreme Posted September 19, 2007 Report Share Posted September 19, 2007 Ditto to Regal GS^ definitely sounds like the vacuum modulator on the tranny and something with the ignition. Could also be TPS maybe? Could try doing a top-end cleaning first. Do a search for Seafoam, should have a topic somewhere describing how to do it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gp90se Posted September 19, 2007 Report Share Posted September 19, 2007 Ditto to Regal GS^ definitely sounds like the vacuum modulator on the tranny and something with the ignition. Could also be TPS maybe? Could try doing a top-end cleaning first. Do a search for Seafoam, should have a topic somewhere describing how to do it. This dudes legit. I'm going to guess the ignition control mod and tranny modulator Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GutlessSupreme Posted September 20, 2007 Report Share Posted September 20, 2007 This dudes legit. eh? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cubey Posted September 20, 2007 Author Report Share Posted September 20, 2007 I picked up a can of "Berryman B-12 Chemtool" at Wal-Mart. They also had seafoam but it was nearly $9. This stuff was $4 or so. I asked a guy (customer) if he knows if seafoam is any good and that I had heard good things about it, he said yes its good but I may as well get this B-12 Chemtool since it should do about the same but costs less. Seems to be the same kind of product as Sea foam, but at half the cost. Will see about trying it tomorrow if I feel up to it. I think I may be getting a cold. About due for one I guess. It's been quite a while... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
99RegalGS Posted September 20, 2007 Report Share Posted September 20, 2007 if that hose is leaking it can be causing a problem on his car! So it is not to be completely overlooked. Remember 1988' 2.8's are a MAF system.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cubey Posted September 20, 2007 Author Report Share Posted September 20, 2007 if that hose is leaking it can be causing a problem on his car! So it is not to be completely overlooked. Remember 1988' 2.8's are a MAF system.... I plan to visit the local you-pull salvage yard to look for an intake hose sometime soon to try to find one. Found one one noise with the car is a rubbing brake pad. A garage I stopped by downtown said they'd charge $35 labor (front only) if I bring my own brake pads. The rubbing noise seems to be on the front passenger side. A set of cheap pads are about $14 from oreiley or autozone. So parts, labor and tax it should be about $52 or so to get the front brakes done. He said the rear brakes labor would be $45 labor because they are more complicated. Also, he was stumped by the rear brakes on the car, expecting the rear brakes to be different from the front. I think he said they uysally have drum brakes or something. If I want rotors installed, $5 extra labor per rotor. I think I may hold off on that unless the rotors are flat out rotten. I know they're needing resurfacing but not sure which ones. I'd suspect the one that has the rubbing pad so maybe I'll just get that one replaced. I'll have to wait and see. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gp90se Posted September 20, 2007 Report Share Posted September 20, 2007 This dudes legit. eh? as in your right Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GutlessSupreme Posted September 20, 2007 Report Share Posted September 20, 2007 woot Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TurboSedan Posted September 21, 2007 Report Share Posted September 21, 2007 The hose you're referencing doesn't do much of anything. It doesn't have anything to do with the car running poorly. I wouldn't even worry about it. Whatever oil that's coming out of it is getting splashed up from the valves. And yes, the intake plenum has to be removed to change the PCV valve. oil coming out of that breather tube on the front valve cover could also be an indication of blow-by (worn rings). and i don't think you have to take the plenum off to change the PCV valve. i don't anyways. if you replace the PCV 'S" hose, then yes you would have to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TurboSedan Posted September 21, 2007 Report Share Posted September 21, 2007 I picked up a can of "Berryman B-12 Chemtool" at Wal-Mart. They also had seafoam but it was nearly $9. This stuff was $4 or so. I asked a guy (customer) if he knows if seafoam is any good and that I had heard good things about it, he said yes its good but I may as well get this B-12 Chemtool since it should do about the same but costs less. Seems to be the same kind of product as Sea foam, but at half the cost. Will see about trying it tomorrow if I feel up to it. I think I may be getting a cold. About due for one I guess. It's been quite a while... i wouldn't use B-12 Chemtool as an top end cleaner! only Seafoam or GM TEC. Berryman's B-12 Chemtool is completely different stuff - good for soaking parts in etc but not as a top engine cleaner. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cubey Posted September 21, 2007 Author Report Share Posted September 21, 2007 i wouldn't use B-12 Chemtool as an top end cleaner! only Seafoam or GM TEC. Berryman's B-12 Chemtool is completely different stuff - good for soaking parts in etc but not as a top engine cleaner. Hm, some folks say to use it, some say don't. I think I won't. I haven't opened the can so Wal-Mart should accept it back so I can get Seafoam instead. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cubey Posted September 21, 2007 Author Report Share Posted September 21, 2007 Went out to the salvage yard and they had about 3-4 88 regals there, mostly badly stripped already. However, I did find the PCV hose I needed! Also picked off a gas cap from the same car to have as a spare. Total with tax for the hose & cap was $5.68 Also, I returned the Chemtool and got Seafoam. No clue how much gas is in the tank (bad cluster/gauge or sensor) or how much MPG I'm getting, so I just put in 4oz and then put 4 gallons of gas in after the seafoam so fueling up should have mixed it up into the existing and fresh gas. Not sure if I really noticed any improvement from the Seafoam or not. Might need a few more ounces to do any good. I guess I should have put in 6oz since it probably had at the very least 2 gallons left, oh well. It could probbly stand to have it added to the crankcase (oil) and the transmission but I'll wait for that. However, I did seem to notice some improvement in accelerating from a stop with the replaced PCV hose. Makes sense since as someone mentioned, this year model Regal is a MAF (MAP also but MAF is default) and therefore could be causing part of the problem. It might still need a new PCV valve, however the engine seems to rev up a bit faster and harder now with less pressure on the gas petal. In the test drive just now with the "new" hose, I was a slightly more aggressive with the gas petal (but not overly so, to be kind to the transmission) and it did fairly well factoring in the transmission issues. I think am going to try driving it in plain "D" (followed by the circled "D") which is probably going to be overdrive off. Circled D is probably the automatic overdrive. Perhaps automatic overdrive is having some effect on the transmission shifting. Worth a shot I guess. It will just cost me a bit more gas. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gp90se Posted September 21, 2007 Report Share Posted September 21, 2007 I'm not sure how hard it would be, but tossing an 89 ecu into it elminating the maf but allowing you to keep the vacuum egr might not be a bad idea Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cubey Posted September 21, 2007 Author Report Share Posted September 21, 2007 If you mean this: http://wbodysource.com/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=266 It's a bit too complicated for me to attempt I think without any visual diagrams. The PCV hose I replaced just pulls out/pushes in, with a plastic clamp on one end and thats it. No tools even needed. I have a small collection of tools that might do the job. But then I'd still need to find the parts and install them. A good instructions would help greatly. Plus, if it is something mechanically wrong in the transmission (190,450 miles after all!) I will have wasted time and money converting to MAP with no improvement. I will try driving it without overdrive next time and see how it does I suppose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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