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Posted

I have a problem with my power steering. The system leaks half a quart a day.

 

It isn't leaking where the lines meet the pump, so either the lines are leaking where they run along the rack, at the rack itself, or the rack is leaking.

 

What is involved in replacing the lines and rack? Dropping the subframe? That isn't something I want to do in a parking lot, so any guesses on what I'd get charged by a shop to replace leaking lines/rack?

 

thanks

Posted

A buddy of mine just had his replaced in his Beretta. Although they don't have entirely the same setup as a W-body, a lot of the process's are the same. He had his done for $600-$700, i forget the exact amount. He got the quick ratio rack as well, which was a bit pricier.

Posted

mine had a line blowout. MIdas said $900 cuz i need a new rack and bla bla bla, took it to meineke, like 45 bucks and then the price of a new line. that's why if I have to take my car anywhere, it goes there

Posted

You can do the lines without replacing the rack, or removing the subframe for that matter. It's probably a bitch to do with an auto, but theres's plenty of space with a 282 in there :) I did all my lines while I had my engine out because I figured it was inevitable, there like $30 each from NAPA i think.

Posted

The lines are easy. Except the return line I think? Wraps around the front of the cradle.

 

To replace the rack you just have to lower the rear of the subframe to get to it, I don't think you actually have to remove it.

 

I'm replacing all the PS stuff on the grand prix pretty soon.

Posted

The lines are easy. Except the return line I think? Wraps around the front of the cradle.

 

To replace the rack you just have to lower the rear of the subframe to get to it, I don't think you actually have to remove it.

 

I'm replacing all the PS stuff on the grand prix pretty soon.

 

well I better look this stuff up

 

access to the lines looks very difficult, i figured you'd have to remove all kinds of shit to get to them

Posted

I retro modded mine!!!!!! On the 92, I used the line off of a 95+ lumina in mine. it doesn't go around the frame, rtether it has a squiggly section that stays in one spot on the frame. I simply ran new hose from the original ends of the 92's to the sguiggly section, which is a direct replacement for the long piece that wraps the frame. it even had 2 of the 3 retaining holes pre-existing!!! the last I drilled.

Posted

It's been a while since I worked on a 2.8/3.1 car, but I'm sure if you just rocked the engine forward it would be really easy.

Posted

It's been a while since I worked on a 2.8/3.1 car, but I'm sure if you just rocked the engine forward it would be really easy.

 

can you safely run the engine with it rocked foreword? i need pressure in the system to see where the leaks are

Posted

can you safely run the engine with it rocked foreword? i need pressure in the system to see where the leaks are

 

Jack it up, clean everything off nice nice, then check it again the next day to see what's covered in fluid. It's probably just the pressure line (the one that doesn't run all the way around the front of the subframe. real easy). I doubt it's the rack.

Posted

can you safely run the engine with it rocked foreword? i need pressure in the system to see where the leaks are

 

Jack it up, clean everything off nice nice, then check it again the next day to see what's covered in fluid. It's probably just the pressure line (the one that doesn't run all the way around the front of the subframe. real easy). I doubt it's the rack.

 

alright

 

it's going to be hard to pointpoint the leak, it's quite a mess down there.

 

 

 

 

 

i don't understand why GM would run the return line all the way around the subframe. that's retarded.

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