Baddflash Posted July 4, 2003 Report Share Posted July 4, 2003 I plan to install these parts this week-end. Front&Rear struts Front&Rear rotors Inner&Outer tie rods lower balljoints Is there anything else I should do while things are apart? Also I've got a squeaking coming from rear end what bushings or rubbers would cause it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pabz Posted July 4, 2003 Report Share Posted July 4, 2003 Check out my site, you can get the new mono leaf bushings from the dealer, $$$ though i did all the rear susp, good luck man. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
90TGP Posted July 4, 2003 Report Share Posted July 4, 2003 You should pick up some new strut mounts. Over the years, they can become bad and break on you. Can get them from http://www.tires.com from KYB. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baddflash Posted July 4, 2003 Author Report Share Posted July 4, 2003 Dammit there always has to be something, it would be nice to not have to do them as I already spent over $1000. But I guess it's too much work to do them after. "Can we say charge it" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baddflash Posted July 4, 2003 Author Report Share Posted July 4, 2003 Well I got the strut mounts which were like $200 then the Pads which was another $50. I just put a new leaf in last year so that should be good. I think I got everything so I'll start tomorrow. Any last minute tips?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pabz Posted July 5, 2003 Report Share Posted July 5, 2003 When you pulling out and putting back in the struts be carful and stand to the side, so they don't accidentally fly out and rearange your face, lemme know how it goes, and if you need and live advice, i'll keep an eye on the board tommorow around what time? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baddflash Posted July 5, 2003 Author Report Share Posted July 5, 2003 Thanks, I'll start around noon but it'll take me a bit before I get back to re-assembly. I think I'll start on the back but I'm not sure if I can just replace the tie rods or if my rack is bad. About a month after having new axels installed I started geting a sort of clicking when turning the wheel. You notice it at a dead stop and turning the wheel either direction it also seems like it goes in a pattern maybe 1 oe 2 clicks per turn of the wheel. I'm starting to think it's the rack but I'm hoping it's ball joints or tie rods??? I'm gonna get someone to look at it so hopefullythey can say for sure but any input is appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
god910 Posted July 5, 2003 Report Share Posted July 5, 2003 I really hate to say this but if you are going to replace your inner tie rods it's probably only going to be about ~$60 -$100 to get a whole rack w/ inners. It's also easier to change the whole rack IMHO. Also, I can tell you this from recent experience, when you have the rear apart and the strut bolts unbolted, remember that you can control the binding of the rear suspension by raising and lowering the BODY not the suspension, I find that the lower the body goes to the ground (I had my rotors about 1" from the ground) the easier it is to get the bolts out of the housing. Sometimes you get in a hurry and I shortened one of my struts nuts about a 1/4" beating on it w/ a hammer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GnatGoSplat Posted July 7, 2003 Report Share Posted July 7, 2003 I really hate to say this but if you are going to replace your inner tie rods it's probably only going to be about ~$60 -$100 to get a whole rack w/ inners. It's also easier to change the whole rack IMHO. You have got to be kidding! When I changed my inner tierod, it only took about 45-minutes from start to finish, even though that was my first time. With the right tools (long tierod socket, torque wrench, and tierod crimper) it was super easy. Granted, I spent nearly $100 on tools, but with 4 W-bodies at my house, it's money well spent. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
god910 Posted July 8, 2003 Report Share Posted July 8, 2003 Oh fer shure. Again, just my opinion, I would rather not screw w/ them and you have to admit the savings are there over replacing just the tie rods. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GnatGoSplat Posted July 8, 2003 Report Share Posted July 8, 2003 Oh fer shure. Again, just my opinion, I would rather not screw w/ them and you have to admit the savings are there over replacing just the tie rods. Well, I don't really see the savings because changing the inner tierods requires a TON less labor than swapping out the rack. Swapping out the rack is a pretty huge job requiring lowering the rear of the subframe, unbolting the power steering lines, and maneuvering the rack out from around the lines and through the opening created by lowering the subframe. Then you have to bolt the power steering lines back on which is a pain in itself. Removing an inner tierod is as simple as remove outer clamp from boot with pliers, cut inner boot clamp with Dremel, pull off boot, attach long inner tierod socket, attach 1/2" drive wrench to socket, and remove. Very simple! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
91GranSport Posted July 8, 2003 Report Share Posted July 8, 2003 Front strut bearings and rear shock mounts. Since you're going to have all the suspension disassembled, you may as well replace all the parts as a complete unit. I plan to install these parts this week-end. Front&Rear struts Front&Rear rotors Inner&Outer tie rods lower balljoints Is there anything else I should do while things are apart? Also I've got a squeaking coming from rear end what bushings or rubbers would cause it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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