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TGP progress thread- Update pg 6, some engine pics


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Posted

So, short and simple, I'm not getting any spark. where should I start? I've never had to bring a car back after sitting for 2 years :lol:

 

-plugs are good (enough)

-oil pressure good

-cranks just fine

 

what else do you want to know?

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Posted

i was thinking maybe coils or ICM, but I don't know. I'm gonna a try another plug or two, see if i get spark on any of the others. still would try to start though I'd think...

Posted

definetly check fuses and all connections first (make sure the ICM's all plugged in). If none of the coils are firing, the ICM's not getting power/ECM signal, or it's fried. Backtrack your way to the ECM, piece by piece, if need be. Check the crank position sensor also.

Posted

fuses, relays, coil packs maybe?

 

x2! That's where I'd look. Even if you're sure that the wires and plugs are "ok", it would be a good idea to change them if the car was sitting for 2 years IMHO.

Posted

fuses, relays, coil packs maybe?

 

x2! That's where I'd look. Even if you're sure that the wires and plugs are "ok", it would be a good idea to change them if the car was sitting for 2 years IMHO.

yeah, that'll be like the first thing I do once I get it running, but I want to get everything back to normal first, then start upgrading what i need to. I'll check it out in a bit, but right now the price is right is on :lol:

Posted

definetly check fuses and all connections first (make sure the ICM's all plugged in). If none of the coils are firing, the ICM's not getting power/ECM signal, or it's fried. Backtrack your way to the ECM, piece by piece, if need be. Check the crank position sensor also.

what he said.

 

to rule out a bad plug wires, borrow one off the vert and check for spark off each coil with it.

Posted

you can always have the icm bench-tested. do you have extra coils and icm from the parts car? maybe you could swap those over quick and see if theres a difference. oh, yeah, you have the vert. since you know all thats good, you could start throwing parts at it.

 

Posted

Is the SES light on?? If it is and the fuel checks out good and everything else is good then i'm 99% sure its the cps I had one fail before in my 92. be very very careful changing it if you break the head off your ****** then the frame has to come down to get it out like what happened to me so g/l

Posted

well, I know one reason I'm not getting spark, a blown 10amp ignition fuse :lol: we had replaced it because it was missing at first, and I don't think we ever thought to check it again. battery is charging, I'll see about cranking it over in a few hours with a new fuse

Posted

ok, newest development, no spark because of a popping fuse. now to figure out why the ignition fuse pops every time the key goes to the run position, before cranking it

Posted

Could be a short somewhere most likely, check any wires you can see and see if they are cut or exposed in any way or see if anything is grounding out maybe...

Posted

everything looks ok, a little dirty, but nothing worn through or broken on the underside of the fuse box. If I take my multimeter to it, what should I be looking for, and how should I have it set to check?

Posted

I had a bad PCM. I guess it should be right behind the coils. I dont know, I had a shop do it for me.

Posted

noted. I will bring you a spare ECM next time I come by!

my other thought could be fuel injector is totally shorted out?

Posted

possible. the underside looked a little corroded right at the fuse block, but not bad to the point where they should be shorting out. Yeah, bring an ECM and maybe an injector or two, although I don't think the injectors should be bad

Posted

searched around this morning, didn't see anything shorting out, but its still popping the fuse pretty good. what other grounds/power cables should I check for? would the starter, alternator, anything like that be related?

Posted

Check the igntion wires in the column, make sure nothing in there has been messed around with.

 

Check grounding points, and clean them up with a wire brush.

 

Follow ICM, crank sensor, etc.... wiring back, make sure nothing is frayed.

Posted

the under column wiring looks like it's never been touched, but there is a plug that isn't plugged in, and i vaguely remember seeing that somewhere before. it has a black, grey, and orange wires coming out of it, kinda from behind the stereo, but pretty much between the stereo and steering wheel. probably not the cause of any problems, but what is it?

Posted

UPDATE:

 

So, It has to be in the ICM. I unplugged it, no fuse popping, plugged it back in, fuse popping. Now I'll have to find a known good one and swap it, see if that fixes the problem.

Posted

UPDATE:

 

So, It has to be in the ICM. I unplugged it, no fuse popping, plugged it back in, fuse popping. Now I'll have to find a known good one and swap it, see if that fixes the problem.

you could take the bad one to the store, have it bench-tested, have a new one bench-tested, buy the new one, then take the bad one to another store under a defective return, unless youre a super-honest person.
Posted

UPDATE:

 

So, It has to be in the ICM. I unplugged it, no fuse popping, plugged it back in, fuse popping. Now I'll have to find a known good one and swap it, see if that fixes the problem.

you could take the bad one to the store, have it bench-tested, have a new one bench-tested, buy the new one, then take the bad one to another store under a defective return, unless youre a super-honest person.

 

x2. Except most places don't let you return electronics, and chances are you would just get another working one.

 

I pocket them left and right at parts galore.

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