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Need help with an amp


Monkton

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Okay so it's not a w-body....

 

In my Accord I recently hooked up my Pioneer 4 channel amp and whenever there was a really "bassy" part of a song it would cut out and not come back for about 10 seconds, and then do it again. I'm assuming this is my ground not being sufficient, any other ideas?

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Okay so it's not a w-body....

 

In my Accord I recently hooked up my Pioneer 4 channel amp and whenever there was a really "bassy" part of a song it would cut out and not come back for about 10 seconds, and then do it again. I'm assuming this is my ground not being sufficient, any other ideas?

 

Is it overheating?

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I don't think it's from overheating, because it's instant as soon as I turn it on. It's the same exact set up as the Mirage so I don't know why it would be doing this. I have the power cable running from the battery to the back to a distribution block that goes power wire to my subwoofer amp and a power wire to my speaker amp. I have the sub amp grounded to a bolt on the back seat and the same thing for the speaker amp just on the other side of the car.

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Why are you running a 4 channel to a subwoofer? Do you have interior speakers?

 

Yeah that's what I was wondering too. Why in the world would you try to run a stereo amp to a sub? I tried running a two-channel stereo amp to a sub once and it definitely didn't work out very well.

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Two grounding points may cause a ground loop FYI...

 

Chances are high the alternator cant support the demand. I can promise you the factory big 3 wire sucks the cock also.

 

Start there, do the big 3 upgrade. If it still isnt cutting the mustard look into an alt.

 

What size alts in the car, 60 Amp? And how many amps is on the combined fuses in the amps?

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When i hooked my subs up originally they worked fine, someone told me that i had them wired wrong, that i had them wired parallel and they needed to be in a series or something like that. they also told me i should bridge them. When i rewired them they would work for a minute and then cut out. so i put them back. when i bridged them they would work for a minute then cut out. do you have dual voice coil subs??

 

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Guys, I have TWO amps, one for the sub and one for the speakers. The sub amp and subwoofer work fine. I was having problems with the speaker amplifier. I've decided not to amp my speakers, I'll just wait til the stock ones blow then have a shop put in my speaker amp and new speakers. Thanks for the help.

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Why are you running a 4 channel to a subwoofer? Do you have interior speakers?

 

Yeah that's what I was wondering too. Why in the world would you try to run a stereo amp to a sub? I tried running a two-channel stereo amp to a sub once and it definitely didn't work out very well.

 

People have been running Class A/B amps to subs for YEARS before Class D ever came along...

 

You just need to know what you are doing.

 

Class D amps just offer better efficiency over class A/B amps.

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When i hooked my subs up originally they worked fine, someone told me that i had them wired wrong, that i had them wired parallel and they needed to be in a series or something like that. they also told me i should bridge them. When i rewired them they would work for a minute and then cut out. so i put them back. when i bridged them they would work for a minute then cut out. do you have dual voice coil subs??

 

 

I advise you to look into RFs or JL wiring guides to familiarize yourself with the terms and what they look like visually. That way you know whats what, who is right and who is wrong.

 

Depending on your sub and amp is how you need to wire up.

 

You way be able to parallel/bridge. You may have to series then bridge...

 

You need to power your subs to the best of your ability.

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I bought one of them from a buddy who got it in a single sub box from circuit city. When i took it out it had a wire connecting one of the reds (with a white dot) to the solid black post. I then hooked up the wires from the amp to the two remaining posts. This is the only way i could get it to work without throwing my amp into protect mode or popping a fuse. Im not complaining they are really freaking loud, Shocktherapy can vouch for that.

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Alright, well for anyone who cares I got it fixed today. The problem must have been a sh*tty ground, that's all I changed. My Polk Audio's play clear and crisp now at the highest volumes and no cutting out! :)

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