92Z34 Posted September 6, 2007 Report Share Posted September 6, 2007 im am looking at buying a chip for my z34 and it askes about shift points i am really big into drag racing and i just put a brand new 3.4dohc in it bored .030 over. what i am wondering is what shift points will get me the best possible 1/4 mile time i have a ram air kit already and i got a rebuilt tranny so any advise on this topic will help and if you got any ideas on a good chip let me know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted September 6, 2007 Report Share Posted September 6, 2007 60 degreev6? aka One of Ben's chips? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92Z34 Posted September 6, 2007 Author Report Share Posted September 6, 2007 yea im planin on orderin the 60*v6 chip i just wanted to know if you knew any tips on the shift points Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Posted September 7, 2007 Report Share Posted September 7, 2007 i would stay with the stock shift points since you only have a intake. if you had more mods(ie turbo, custom cams, headwork, etc) then i would consider changing them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92Z34 Posted September 7, 2007 Author Report Share Posted September 7, 2007 ok it just seems like the power falls off after 6000 rpm and it runs to almost 7k in 1st and 2nd and it just seems like i loose alot in the top of those 2 gears Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92Z34 Posted September 7, 2007 Author Report Share Posted September 7, 2007 just a thought what kinda gains should i expect from a 60*v6 chip Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Posted September 8, 2007 Report Share Posted September 8, 2007 just a thought what kinda gains should i expect from a 60*v6 chip 8-10 whp is accurate from what i hear. and you shouldnt be revving to 7k, i think your redline is at 6k. or do you have the manual? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92Z34 Posted September 8, 2007 Author Report Share Posted September 8, 2007 no its an auto but the guy that had it b4 us had a turboed 3.4 in it and he had it set up to run higher rpms Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Euro Posted September 8, 2007 Report Share Posted September 8, 2007 sounds nice. Any pics of it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Posted September 8, 2007 Report Share Posted September 8, 2007 well since your engine is stock, i would go back down to the stock redline. you dont want to damage your engine by over revvin it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CSI_MuNkY Posted September 8, 2007 Report Share Posted September 8, 2007 Yeah, what they said... return your shift points to stock until you get more mods done to the engine. The stock shift points are fairly decent anyways. Jamie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92Z34 Posted September 9, 2007 Author Report Share Posted September 9, 2007 all right i just have them changed to stock no i dont have any pics of it when it was turboed when i got it, it didnt have a motor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BIGBULS Posted October 1, 2007 Report Share Posted October 1, 2007 I'm a little late into the game here, but the stock shiftpoints suck. Most LQ1 autos shift 1-2 at 6200-6400rpm and 2-3 at 6100-6250rpm and then shortshift the shit out of 3-4....usually at only 5000-5200rpm. This sucks, as the motor is still making power past 6K rpm, and even though it's starting to taper off, you land at barely over 4000 off of both the 1-2 and 2-3 shifts, and you are making a LOT less THERE than you are up past 6000......... Car to car will vary a little, and there is no way to nail your shiftpoints DEAD ON without you dynoing the car, but for MAXIMUM performance, you are best set with a 6800-7000rpm 1-2, a 6600-6700rpm 2-3 and a 6400-6500rpm 3-4 (which is also right about where the car will STOP pullling due to aerodynamic drag with stock gears and power). BUT......... High rpm shiftpoints CAN smoke a 4T60-E, ESPECIALLY if it's had a shoddy service history. Now GM rated the 4T60-E as being capable of 6500rpm 1-2, 6250rpm 2-3 and 6000rpm 3-4 shifts. These ratings were made with long term reliability in mind........... Also, be aware that the LQ1 actually has TWO shift tables accessable if you have the optional 2nd gear start switch on your car. *I* would run the trans to the RATED shiftpoints (6500, 6250, 6K) for you "Drive" tables, and then bump them to the IDEAL shiftpoints (performance-wise) for the "Winter/Perf" shift tables..........and ONLY run them at the dragstrip (and then cross my fingers while I was at it)........ FInally, I KNOW there are tables for "Drive2" and "DriveLow" on *MOST* 60-E equiped vehicles, but after a conversation with Ben a year or two ago, some (or all??) LQ1 auto cars may not have this...........if it DID though, that would enable more manual control usuing the gear selector. Either way though, the stock shiftpoints blow ass......... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joey b Posted October 1, 2007 Report Share Posted October 1, 2007 if your rebuilt trans can handle the RPMs then bump the shift points to about 6600 RPMs. Stock your car stops gaining power at 6K, but if you adjust the timing you can definately change that. The 2nd gear start, IIRC works by disabling the shift solenoid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BIGBULS Posted October 2, 2007 Report Share Posted October 2, 2007 The 2nd gear start, IIRC works by disabling the shift solenoid. Actually, it has it's very own shift table. All it is, is a switch that lets you access it............just like the range selector switch looks at what position you slot the gear selector in (although again, LQ1's seem to be limited in what they can change with different selector positions..........stock, you can NOT hold 1st gear manually, although you CAN do it to 2nd and 3rd). Either way, you CAN use that second table as a "Performance Shift" table if you so desire (although it's set very NON-agressively stock, due to the whole 2nd gear start/winter traction thing)......... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pwmin Posted October 3, 2007 Report Share Posted October 3, 2007 i would recommend doing an OBD2 conversion. that will give you a ton of tuning possibilities and be able to change the shift points as much as you want until you find your sweet spot. i had my 96 shifting at 7K, but just for the track. i know all this has pretty much been said before, but here goes: even though you might be going down in power after 6K, for the most power, you would want it to shift up to 7K because it goes pretty low after the shift. however, the 60e being able to handle 7K shifts in stock form is another story. i'm not sure what they did when they rebuilt yours. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chadz34 Posted October 4, 2007 Report Share Posted October 4, 2007 The 2nd gear start, IIRC works by disabling the shift solenoid. Actually, it has it's very own shift table. All it is, is a switch that lets you access it............just like the range selector switch looks at what position you slot the gear selector in (although again, LQ1's seem to be limited in what they can change with different selector positions..........stock, you can NOT hold 1st gear manually, although you CAN do it to 2nd and 3rd). Either way, you CAN use that second table as a "Performance Shift" table if you so desire (although it's set very NON-agressively stock, due to the whole 2nd gear start/winter traction thing)......... X2, my 96' DOHC has the 3-4 shortshift and you can't control gear one, but if you shift yourself you have a bit more power on tap for the track. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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