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What's going on here?


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Posted

Okay, I replaced the distributor drive o-ring and when I went to crank it back up, it was running like crap. The engine was surging at all different RPM's from barely running to revving at around 3K RPM. It also threw a code but I didn't check the code yet. I know I got all wiring connectors back in their locations and all vacuum line connected. What am I missing here?

Posted

It also threw a code but I didn't check the code yet.

 

Check the code.

 

And you probably didn't hook the IAC or TPS up or put some vacuum line on wrong or something.

Posted

hook the brake booster back up???

 

someithing simple and silly. maybe the temp sensor is not hooked up?

Posted

The only thing I took loose was 2 connectors on the throttle body, 1 on the airbox, the cluster of vacuum lines at the top of the throttle body, and 1 separate line right behind the TB. Does the fuel rail have to be bled or anything else?

Posted

fuel rail is fine. Just re-check all the lines ( especially the vaccum lines ) and maybe an idle-relearn

Posted

Pull ECM fuse

Replace ECM fuse

Start car - it will die

Restart car

Put in drive

Let idle in drive for 5 minutes or so

And it should be better

:D

Posted

Check that code though, make sure you didn't pull a vacuum line loose or accidentally unplug something. The paper clip trick works wonders since you have a '93.

Posted

I went to check the code but then couldn't find the DLC. I am used to seeing them under the dash on the driver's side. Where is it on a Cutlass?

Posted

ALDL connection is under the dash on the driver's side :dunno: near the center console.

 

you didn't forget the throttle body gasket did you? I did that once... :leaving:

Posted

I went back and checked all sensor connections and all were connected. Then I traced all vacuum lines that I could possibly find and they were all OK as well. I also check the trouble code and it flashed a 33, which according to my book is a MAP sensor problem. What am I missing here?

Posted

Low vacuum... Make 100% sure you didn't accidentally pull the vacuum line off, you may have also broken or pulled off a line from under the plenum. They are very easy to break.

Posted

I'll check again but I didn't see any broken lines. It sounds as if I may need to pull the plenum to check under it. Is that much trouble?

Posted

On a 3.1, it's pretty straight forward. Remove the 9 (I think, it's been awhile since I've even been in my car) bolts up top and the MAP sensor and Canister Purge Solenoid...To just check the vacuum lines, you should be able to get away with not removing the throttle body. But while you have it all apart, now is a real good time to change out the PCV valve and hose (they're always brittle).

Posted

I just came in from cruisin' with the top down. Yes I did get it running right but I almost hate to admit what it was.As I was getting ready to take the plenum off to check for a vacuum leak, I started taking the TB off and noticed that the gasket had slipped down about 3/4" on one side when I bolted everything up :redface:. The lower bolt had gone in beside the gasket so I thought it had gone through the hole and everything was fine. Anyway, I realigned the gasket, bolted everything back up, and then went for a ride. :lol:

Posted

I just came in from cruisin' with the top down. Yes I did get it running right but I almost hate to admit what it was.As I was getting ready to take the plenum off to check for a vacuum leak, I started taking the TB off and noticed that the gasket had slipped down about 3/4" on one side when I bolted everything up :redface:. The lower bolt had gone in beside the gasket so I thought it had gone through the hole and everything was fine. Anyway, I realigned the gasket, bolted everything back up, and then went for a ride. :lol:

 

PWNED!!!! glad it's back up!

Posted

Thanks for all the help. :high5: Next up is to check to see why the right rear window won't operate.

Posted

Everyone seems to have problems with the right rear window...I have never had a one on mine except the '92, if I don't hold the switch just right, it doesn't go back up but it does work. It's the master switch.

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