pwmin Posted September 21, 2007 Report Share Posted September 21, 2007 how bout from a dohc instead of a pushrod you can get lightweight ones from 60degreev6.com/store, but theyre 340 plus shipping. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kuwaitliberation Posted September 22, 2007 Author Report Share Posted September 22, 2007 how bout from a dohc instead of a pushrod you can get lightweight ones from 60degreev6.com/store, but theyre 340 plus shipping. The cheapest I have seen otherwise is 475 and those are OEM replacment. I think I will get the $340 performance replacement. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pwmin Posted September 22, 2007 Report Share Posted September 22, 2007 how bout from a dohc instead of a pushrod you can get lightweight ones from 60degreev6.com/store, but theyre 340 plus shipping. The cheapest I have seen otherwise is 475 and those are OEM replacment. I think I will get the $340 performance replacement. sweet i woudlve def gotten them when i rebuilt my top end, but i didnt have the extra cash. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kuwaitliberation Posted November 3, 2007 Author Report Share Posted November 3, 2007 I have finally gotten my shit together long enough to start working on this again. I found a '94 Olds C/S with the 3.4 in a junkyard today. Engine is clean. I am going to pull the cam carriers and lifters from it. I figure out of 48 lifters, I can find 24 that are the best of the bunch. I am getting the fuel rail cover, also. It is in perfect condition. This is the same yard that has the '92 GP with the 3.4 and HUD. It also has the nice console computer thing. I am going to get that sometime next week so I can test it and put it up for sale here. Since Texas is pretty much rust-free, it is easy for me to get good quality used parts. I might just have to start going into the parts business for all my friends up north. I'll let y'all know how this thing is progressing. I should be done by Tuesday (finally)! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ManicMechanic Posted November 3, 2007 Report Share Posted November 3, 2007 Since Texas is pretty much rust-free, it is easy for me to get good quality used parts. I might just have to start going into the parts business for all my friends up north. I've been considering doing this with my brother, he lives in Ohio. Buying cheap rust free trucks here and taking them north to sell, especially 4x4s. Hell, I find nearly rust free Blazers, Crew Cabs, 1 tons, needing an engine or just a little work for free or less than $200 every once in awhile. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kuwaitliberation Posted November 12, 2007 Author Report Share Posted November 12, 2007 Got some extreme lifter noise. I think it is on the exhaust bank somewhere. Probably the right (rear) cam carrier. I'm thinking about just giving up and taking it in to have someone look at it, however I don't know who I would trust to do this. So friggin frustrating. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ns87 Posted November 12, 2007 Report Share Posted November 12, 2007 I was wondering what happened with this. At least you tried to do it yourself! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kuwaitliberation Posted November 13, 2007 Author Report Share Posted November 13, 2007 I was wondering what happened with this. At least you tried to do it yourself! Thanks. Yea, i finally figured out what the lifter noise was. I was setting the timing by the wrong timing mark! I was not accurately setting it. When I finally got to really looking at the whole damn thing, it finally made sense. So, the "lifter" noise was actually the valves because it was off by two or three degrees. The left (front) bank was actually -4 degrees from #4 TDC and the right (rear) bank was +2. I wanted +2 on both as it just makes more sense. Now, the timing mark i was going by exclusively was the white paint on the intermediate cam sproket. I just made sure that was down, is all. What i didn't realize was that when it is down, you can actually move the crank about 4 degrees either way and it still looks like it is down because that is only 2 degrees of play on the cam. So, you can have the entire thing timed 8 degrees apart. Setting the timing on the front bank requires that the paint mark be 180 degrees over (#4 at TDC). So, in order to ensure accuracy, you have to look at the crank timing mark. So, in the end, I have learned some valuable lessons about OHC engines. I am also pretty much an expert at tearing down the entire top end of this engine. I have removed the cam carriers twice (since I removed the set at the junkyard, also). The heads once. The upper intake manifold 5 times. The lower intake manifold three times, since I messed up tightening the lower manifold to head bolts and caused the gasket to leak. The fuel rail once (which was my mistake and reason for not doing the gasket correctly the first time). I replaced the head gaskets and head bolts, valve oil seals, lower and upper intake manifold gaskets, cam carrier to head gaskets, cam carrier cover gaskets, all cooling gaskets, various vacuum hoses and fittings, various cooling hoses, thermostat, seal and gasket (which, by the way, is a PITA if you are just replacing the part), plugs (since i dropped 2 of them on the ground and cracked one), both cam carriers with one from a '94 in the junkyard, cam timing belt, cam timing belt idlers, cam timing belt tensioner, accessory belt, all cam sproket bolts (I decided to go with new ones, because I get them cheap at a bolt supply store here). Am I forgetting anything? Oh, yea, oil, oil filter and coolant. Now, I need to seafoam the engine because when i messed up the gasket, it got water in the oil. Looks like white slime in the engine now. Yuck! Now that I am an "old pro" at setting the damn timing on this thing, I want the cam timing tool that allows for +/- 6 degrees so I can set the exhaust at 6 degrees retard and intake at 6 degrees advance. This is a pic from 60degreev6: Either that, or find someone who will make this tool for me. I do know someone who can, just when will he be able to get to it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pwmin Posted November 13, 2007 Report Share Posted November 13, 2007 sweet. i just did all that to mine a little while ago and went 0/-13, but im not super happy with it. i just marked appropriately on the crank pulley where it needed to go and timed it that way. im hoping to do an obd2 swap sometime not too far away, which will require me to replace the 92 cams that are in there to get a reluctor ring for the cam position sensor. i have a set of 96 cams, but i'm going to try to find some 94-95 ones since theyre a LITTLE more aggressive. i think i'm going to change it to 0/-10 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kuwaitliberation Posted November 13, 2007 Author Report Share Posted November 13, 2007 very, very low horsepower. very loud engine knock. i know it has something to do with the cam timing and i can't figure it out. can someone please tell me how to set the timing easily in one shot? I just want the flat cams is all. My biggest problem appears to be getting it timed right with the crank. is there a special mark that i am missing? HELP PLEASE! I BEG YOU! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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