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18incholdz

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next monday i'm ordering 2 1200.1 jbl amps, 2 jbl 12 inch power series subs, jbl gti 6x9 and some pheonix gold wiring....Oh yes...my cutty will go boom next week :D :D :D

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I bought 2 12" RF subs in a box this week for my car for $50 from my friend's brother in law. He got 15's so he didnt need the 12's anymore.

Too bad my car is nowhere near driveable though.

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for sale: 10 inch kicker solobaric L7 in box and a 10 inch pioneer 350 watt in box. they are waiting to be shipped!!! all i have to do is get your 250 bucks, and ill send them on their way! (the $250 includes shipping, you give me 250 and the subs are at your doorstep in a couple of weeks) :read: :naughty:

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Everyone makes the biggest mistakes when it comes to adding systems to their cars. 1500W from a RF amp is not as loud or as clear as 400W from a Gallen-Krueger or Hartke BASS AMP. These things are cheaper, designed to take bass and make it sound good, AND its just as loud. The only difference is class of circuitry, and true bass guitar amps are class A, which is hella sweet. I put in a 600W Hartke bass head (amp) and its running 2 12" Hartke aluminum cone subs, and an 8" Hartke mid. My 94 cutlass sl was rated at 149 dB and it all cost me ~$600....NEW. Keep in mind that you will need to get a transformer in there to run the power needed, but its prolly about the same as any other big system.

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you forgot to factor in the resonin frequency of the speakers, guitar amp speakers and car audio speakers are designed for different uses, smarty pants :lol:

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next monday i'm ordering 2 1200.1 jbl amps, 2 jbl 12 inch power series subs, jbl gti 6x9 and some pheonix gold wiring....Oh yes...my cutty will go boom next week :D :D :D

 

Um.. you got way too much power for those Power Series subs unless you are using both amps just for burps... Great choice in amps, however :)

 

for sale: 10 inch kicker solobaric L7 in box and a 10 inch pioneer 350 watt in box. they are waiting to be shipped!!! all i have to do is get your 250 bucks, and ill send them on their way! (the $250 includes shipping, you give me 250 and the subs are at your doorstep in a couple of weeks) :read: :naughty:

 

That's not much power for that sub. What type and size is the enclosure? If ported or bandpass, what is the tuning frequency?

 

Everyone makes the biggest mistakes when it comes to adding systems to their cars. 1500W from a RF amp is not as loud or as clear as 400W from a Gallen-Krueger or Hartke BASS AMP. These things are cheaper, designed to take bass and make it sound good, AND its just as loud. The only difference is class of circuitry, and true bass guitar amps are class A, which is hella sweet. I put in a 600W Hartke bass head (amp) and its running 2 12" Hartke aluminum cone subs, and an 8" Hartke mid. My 94 cutlass sl was rated at 149 dB and it all cost me ~$600....NEW. Keep in mind that you will need to get a transformer in there to run the power needed, but its prolly about the same as any other big system.

 

In all honesty, an amp is an amp; a watt is a watt. Anyone who tells you otherwise is full of it. That misconception is just about as popular as the one about how distortion can damage speakers...

 

Nice to see some threads on audio. I'm in the works on designing a LOW-budget system for my gf's car. I already got a used h/u for cheep. I'm looking at getting some Peerless components, a Lanzar amp for subs, and recycling my a/d/s/ 308rs woofers in a 3 cube box tuned to 33 hz with 48" of port area :shock:

 

Tempe

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the box for the solo is the one you can buy from any place that sells kicker subs, just a regular box, its not ported, i forgot when you call it, its just a sealed inclosure, drop the speaker in and your ready to go, personally i would like to have designed my own bo for it but it sounds nice when its in this one and it takes up alotta space, well guys, whataya say? 250 bucks?? :naughty:

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