Crazy K Posted August 25, 2007 Report Share Posted August 25, 2007 TRADGEDY! I just replaced the bad injectors in the car, as the car broke down during a test drive. 5 injectors were below spec, one completely with a reading of 2.3 ohms. upon reassembly.... the car is hammering and stumbling. the hammering sounds like it is from the upper area of the engine I am going to change the oil and see what I might find when i do that. other thoughts on what I CAN do? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Euro Posted August 25, 2007 Report Share Posted August 25, 2007 Um....say time to let her go? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Posted August 26, 2007 Report Share Posted August 26, 2007 are the new injectors new and/or known to be good? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted August 26, 2007 Author Report Share Posted August 26, 2007 ohm tested, all 12.4-12.3!!!! hand picked from a bucket full of em! BUT.... I started the car and now it is back to normal WTF????????? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stockgp Posted August 26, 2007 Report Share Posted August 26, 2007 maybe still an injector problem? like you have a short or the injector wiring is intermittently grounding out? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted August 26, 2007 Author Report Share Posted August 26, 2007 naw. definitly somthing metallic knocking. I wonder if I had a dry piston? I took if for a test drive after it came back to normal, sounds fine. cars kinda sloppy though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BXX Posted August 26, 2007 Report Share Posted August 26, 2007 sell it to me for a crackhead price Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White93z34 Posted August 26, 2007 Report Share Posted August 26, 2007 part it out for the greater good? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GP1138 Posted August 26, 2007 Report Share Posted August 26, 2007 "Parting out" isn't in Ken's dictionary, unless it is referring to a car that is not already his. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slick Posted August 26, 2007 Report Share Posted August 26, 2007 Backfiring possibly. I'd make sure the injectors are seated correctly, no o-rings are leaking, etc... Forget to plug anything back in? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted August 30, 2007 Author Report Share Posted August 30, 2007 engine still runs did an oil change, lots of metal on the magnetic drain plug. grabbed a compression tester, and pulled all six plugs, plug number 1 has a shattered insulator. DAMMINT! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted August 30, 2007 Author Report Share Posted August 30, 2007 compression test results!!!!! 1 150 psi cylinder which had spark plug insulator shattered in chamber. probably the noise I heard. 2 130 psi 3 180 psi 4 70 psi oil poured in resulted in no change. ie not the rings. 5 180 psi 6 180 psi thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1990lumina Posted August 30, 2007 Report Share Posted August 30, 2007 Something ins't sealing properly with the valves I'd guess. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted August 30, 2007 Author Report Share Posted August 30, 2007 can someone post the compression specs for the car? I think that the familiar lope this engine has may have been here for a long time, ie cylinder 4 has long been damaged. btw the plugs were coated with white powdery texture deposits. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian P Posted August 30, 2007 Report Share Posted August 30, 2007 Yeah probably a bad valve, hopefully not worse. Pull the front head. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1990lumina Posted August 30, 2007 Report Share Posted August 30, 2007 can someone post the compression specs for the car? I think that the familiar lope this engine has may have been here for a long time, ie cylinder 4 has long been damaged. btw the plugs were coated with white powdery texture deposits. Haynes says 100psi minimum and no less then 30% variation across all cylinders. Haynes manual also has pictures of different spark plug conditions, though I can't match yours since there are a few in here that have white deposits lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian P Posted August 30, 2007 Report Share Posted August 30, 2007 http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/engine/plugs.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DOHCRagtopguy Posted August 30, 2007 Report Share Posted August 30, 2007 Sounds like it needs a valve job, Ken. Hell, just pull another head off one of your parts cars. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BXX Posted August 30, 2007 Report Share Posted August 30, 2007 compression test results!!!!! 1 150 psi cylinder which had spark plug insulator shattered in chamber. probably the noise I heard. 2 130 psi 3 180 psi 4 70 psi oil poured in resulted in no change. ie not the rings. 5 180 psi 6 180 psi thoughts? Was the really bad injector on the same cylinder as the one with low compression??? If so, detonation/preignition may have cracked the piston...+ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted August 31, 2007 Author Report Share Posted August 31, 2007 compression test results!!!!! 1 150 psi cylinder which had spark plug insulator shattered in chamber. probably the noise I heard. 2 130 psi 3 180 psi 4 70 psi oil poured in resulted in no change. ie not the rings. 5 180 psi 6 180 psi thoughts? Was the really bad injector on the same cylinder as the one with low compression??? If so, detonation/preignition may have cracked the piston...+ no cylinder 2 was the really bad injector. 5 out of 6 ain't that bad... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted August 31, 2007 Author Report Share Posted August 31, 2007 pulled the valve cover. all movement looks good.... pulled the cylinder 4 rockers and checked the pushrods, all ok. I am going to change the number 4 exhaust valve spring, it feels kinda soft. luckily I haver a stack of old Heads. I will use the rope trick to support the valve/ WOULD IT BE BAD TO TAKE AND MOUNT A DRILL ON THE VALVE STEM AND SPIN THE VALVE, hopefully burnishing the seat??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian P Posted August 31, 2007 Report Share Posted August 31, 2007 Do this: Pick up the tool which threads into the spark plug bore. This has a length of hose attached to a fitting that allows you to force compressed air into the cylinder. At least this way you can kind of "leak check" the valves vs the other cylinders (there will always be some sort of leakage) If nothing else you could use the compressed air to keep the valves up while you grind them in, should you go that route. I have no idea how you'd do that without applying compound to the seat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted August 31, 2007 Author Report Share Posted August 31, 2007 Do this: Pick up the tool which threads into the spark plug bore. This has a length of hose attached to a fitting that allows you to force compressed air into the cylinder. At least this way you can kind of "leak check" the valves vs the other cylinders (there will always be some sort of leakage) If nothing else you could use the compressed air to keep the valves up while you grind them in, should you go that route. I have no idea how you'd do that without applying compound to the seat. I don't have a compressor... but the tester I got from AZ is compressor compatible. ...calling a friend. I'll spin the valves with a drill, I'm hoping whatever deposits exist act as grinding compound! LOL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian P Posted August 31, 2007 Report Share Posted August 31, 2007 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DOHCRagtopguy Posted August 31, 2007 Report Share Posted August 31, 2007 Do this: Pick up the tool which threads into the spark plug bore. This has a length of hose attached to a fitting that allows you to force compressed air into the cylinder. At least this way you can kind of "leak check" the valves vs the other cylinders (there will always be some sort of leakage) If nothing else you could use the compressed air to keep the valves up while you grind them in, should you go that route. I have no idea how you'd do that without applying compound to the seat. I don't have a compressor... but the tester I got from AZ is compressor compatible. ...calling a friend. I'll spin the valves with a drill, I'm hoping whatever deposits exist act as grinding compound! LOL Reminds me of my old USAF days: Improvise Airman, improvise!! Good luck with it Ken. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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