Jump to content

Gonna change my own brakes...for the 1st time!


90TGPGirl

Recommended Posts

I got a set of Powerstop crossdrilled rotors and PF pads for the front and rear. I am gonna attempt to install these on my 91 GP SE. Can you guys give me some pointers to help me out here? I've never changed brakes on my own, I've watched and helped but never actually did the job myself. It's time to learn! From what I've heard, the rears are a little more difficult. While I'm at it, I'm gonna paint the calipers too.

Thanks for any help!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

are you doing both front and back. Fronts are pretty easy you need to have a 60 Torx bit to unscrew the caliper holder and the caliper is held with hex bolts (I forget what size). The back brakes are kinda tricky. I did the back passenger side first, There are two bolts and the caliper comes off, you have to put twist the piston back in using pliers. Then I did the driver back side and I didn't realize that the piston on this side is on a reverse thread. The piston fell out and I had to get a used caliper. SO BE CAREFUL. I also had alot of trouble bottoming out the pistons in the back. I also used alot of anti-sieze to help the brakes, its very important to use anti-sieze. I know you can use a c-clamp in the front but in the back I don't think so, someone correct me if I'm wrong. When everything is done put on the e-brake to adjust the back brakes.

Have fun

Link to comment
Share on other sites

in both cases the front and rear calipers are held on via 2 15mm bolts each. these will be tight, but not too much of a problem. i used a standard 3/8" drive w/ ratchet. for the front, to get the rotor off you need to remove the caliper mounting bracket, which will require 2 T60 torx bit head "sockets". these will be extremeley dificult to remove as well. VERY tight. make sure you use T60, and use a 1/2" drive with a breaker bar, and you miht even need to pry the breaker bar. they are hard, my impact gun coudnt do it either. after that, change the pads, using a C-clamp for the front, and a lot of cursing with pliers for the back. i took my rears all off so i had to bleed, but it can be done still on the car. then reassemble, and be easy for about 100-200miles and 1-2 weeks on the brakes. oh yah, and on your first drive, go in reverse and come to a NORMAL, not hard but not soft, a normal stop from revers 3 times, this will seat the rears. then, for the front, get to about 45 and come to a HARD stop, not hard enough to activate ABS, but as much as possible without. this will seat the front. then use the ebrake once or twice and your set to go. with the new rotors and pads, youll need to pump the pedal a few times b4 this too.

 

also, where were you at for the WBG??? you said youd be there and you signed up.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

use a 1/2" drive with a breaker bar, and you miht even need to pry the breaker bar. they are hard, my impact gun coudnt do it either.

 

you have a weak impact wrench, the impact wrench that i use (i have a bigger one and a smaller one) and the big one can get almost anything off, it got a nut off a trailer hitch that had 34 years of rust & corrosion built up on it no sweat, but id be damned if i couldve ever gotten that off with a breaker bar!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The rotors in the back can be real fun to get off too. The rear caliper tool is about $10 bucks. You'll wish you didn't have to buy it but it's best. The rear brakes just plain suck any way you look at it. Me...if I had the cash...I'd do the fronts myself and take the rears in. You get a $10 discount by not buying the tool!

 

I'm not saying don't do it yourself, I did mine twice in the last six years, redid the slides and everything, but if I got money....I ain't doin' it again.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You might need to pick up a PAIR of T60 Torx bits! They're usually quite tight, I've broken one before. Good thing for lifetime warranties!

 

The rears are actually 18mm bolts. I use an 18mm box end wrench on them and a hammer. 18mm is an odd size and doesn't come in most tool kits, so you might have to go buy one specifically for this purpose.

 

I initially bought the cube brake tool from Pep Boys. It works, but it sucks. The rear pistons are supposed to rotate in, but they often don't want to. I had the same problem as GPDriver once - after struggling trying to bottom a piston turning it one way, I turned it the other way and the piston fell out so I had to replace that caliper. I really like the Harbor Freight tool for the rear pistons. The Harbor Freight tool lets you rotate the piston in while it's also threaded and pushes the piston in at the same time. The kit is here http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=40732. It goes on sale for $20 all the time, so don't pay $40 for it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hmmm, maybe I'll do the fronts, and then take my car right up the street and have somebody else do the rears. :D

 

As for the WBG, my TGP was in the process of getting those damn heads. It was in that shop for a month. I wasn't to happy that I missed out...I was looking forward to it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...