Intlcutlass Posted July 2, 2003 Report Share Posted July 2, 2003 http://search.ebaymotors.com/search/search.dll?GetResult&query=3%2E1&from=R10&siteid=100&s_partnerid=2&currdisp=2&itemtimedisp=1&categorymap=6000&maxRecordsPerPage=30&combine=y&SortProperty=MetaEndSort&st=2&skip=30 Sombody please explain this to me, I don't get it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slade901 Posted July 2, 2003 Report Share Posted July 2, 2003 http://search.ebaymotors.com/search/search.dll?GetResult&query=3%2E1&from=R10&siteid=100&s_partnerid=2&currdisp=2&itemtimedisp=1&categorymap=6000&maxRecordsPerPage=30&combine=y&SortProperty=MetaEndSort&st=2&skip=30 Sombody please explain this to me, I don't get it. The coolant system has two pipes going into the throttle body. Its purpose is to heat up the throttle body so that incoming cold cold air is warmed a little bit. GM made this design for a very very cold climate in mind but most car owners does not live in a very very cold climate and this design is adding more heat to the incoming air especially during hot summer. To by-pass the throttle body is basically just removing the two hose the goes into the throttle body and connecting the two pipes together with a 90 degree hose. Check this link http://www.v6z24.com/mods/howto/?page=heaterbypass Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Whiskey River Posted July 2, 2003 Report Share Posted July 2, 2003 http://search.ebaymotors.com/search/search.dll?GetResult&query=3%2E1&from=R10&siteid=100&s_partnerid=2&currdisp=2&itemtimedisp=1&categorymap=6000&maxRecordsPerPage=30&combine=y&SortProperty=MetaEndSort&st=2&skip=30 Sombody please explain this to me, I don't get it. This mod does absolutely nothing for power on our cars. It does make it easier to remove the TB for cleaning and such. It also removes one place that coolant can leak. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redfox340 Posted July 2, 2003 Report Share Posted July 2, 2003 Sombody please explain this to me, I don't get it. The theory behind it is this: Since all engines are the most efficient / powerful with cold, dense air enters the combustion chamber, this "by-pass" doesn't let hot coolant go through the throttle body, there for not "warming up" the passing air going to the combustion chamber. However since (at running temp) the intake manifold is already warm / hot, this set-up doesn't do much. There have been ridiculous claims of power gains, but you'll barely see increase in throttle response and that's about all you'll get. - Erik Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Intlcutlass Posted July 2, 2003 Author Report Share Posted July 2, 2003 Thanks I get it now... I just didn't realize there were coolant lines going in & out of the TB. It makes sence that if you take that out , that you wouldn't be superheating the TB. Cooler is better. Even if it did nothing, it seems simple enough that it can't hurt. I thing i'll do it myself for FREE!!!! I think I have the parts to do this.so....... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89oldscutlass Posted July 2, 2003 Report Share Posted July 2, 2003 I was wondering wouldnt it be nice if there was some way to make somthing to connect to those lines to run cold coolent through the throttle body to keep it cool all the time to maximize on the hp gain on a hot engine.Just a thought. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Intlcutlass Posted July 2, 2003 Author Report Share Posted July 2, 2003 The only problem is that if wanted to run your ac through there, you would loose more power than your making from the compressor, and there's nothing else in or attached to the engine that would make anything cold. You would almost turn it into a normally aspirated half assed intercooler. (same theory anyway, to cool the air before it hits the plenum). There are plenty of bigger & better things to add a little power to a motor. Just to dissconnect those coolant lines sounds good enough. Then focus your efforts on other ways to add hp. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robby1870 Posted July 3, 2003 Report Share Posted July 3, 2003 Having the Bypass made it 10x easier to take the TB off. My motor is apart again, see my thread to hear why Robby Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mdelorie Posted July 3, 2003 Report Share Posted July 3, 2003 I have one itty, bitty nag about the procedure listed for this project on 60degreev6. And that is, that they suggest pulling off the TB. When I did mine, I found this in no way necessary. It was a piece of cake to pull off the spring clamps, twist the hose, and pull it off... *shrugs* Just my two bits on it: If you're going to do it, save time and don't bother taking the TB off unless you wanna clean it real good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robby1870 Posted July 3, 2003 Report Share Posted July 3, 2003 I have one itty, bitty nag about the procedure listed for this project on 60degreev6. And that is, that they suggest pulling off the TB. When I did mine, I found this in no way necessary. It was a piece of cake to pull off the spring clamps, twist the hose, and pull it off... *shrugs* Just my two bits on it: If you're going to do it, save time and don't bother taking the TB off unless you wanna clean it real good. When I did mine, the spring clamps were positioned so that there was no way in hell I was gonna be able to get some pliers on them. So, I cut the lines, and took the TB off the get the old lines off the part on the TB. They were stuck on pretty good, since this was the first time the car had ever been apart Robby Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mdelorie Posted July 3, 2003 Report Share Posted July 3, 2003 Aight, maybe mine were just positioned conveniently. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian P Posted July 3, 2003 Report Share Posted July 3, 2003 Engines are most efficient when at operating temp, not while cold. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phantomFE3 Posted July 3, 2003 Report Share Posted July 3, 2003 Engines are most efficient when at operating temp, not while cold. that is EXACTLY right!!! i know i have emphasized that point on here somewhere before!!! if you want a cooler engine then just replace the thermostat, but that still wouldnt do anything for the performance of the vehicle! the only reason why i would do the TB bypass is to get at my damn distributor cover!!! but that is true, these engines were designed to run at a certain temperature, thats why the thermostats are set where they are, if your gonna modify the cooling system, get fans with more CFM to cool the engine down QUICKER, not to a lower temperature, the object is to keep the car at operating temperature, if you had a larger radiator or better fans, you would have a better handle on keeping your car at op temp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbtk2 Posted July 3, 2003 Report Share Posted July 3, 2003 if you want a cooler engine then just replace the thermostat, but that still wouldnt do anything for the performance of the vehicle! Not entirely true, especially on a Forced Induction car. A colder thermostat will keep the engine cooler, which will keep combustion temps lower, which would give the engine less of an opportunity to have knock, thus giving you less knock retard, which would give you more ignition timing, which would make more timing. Besides the fact that it keeps underhood temps down which helps to keep intake air cooler if you have an open cone, or an inefficient cold air intake, besides just keeping things cooler. Colder thermostats have been PROVEN to give a 2-5hp & 2-5lb.ft. gain on L67's. (Car dynoed a few times after warmed up on stock T-stat, then dynoed a few times after warmed up with cooler t-stat) Colder air is especially important on a Forced Induction car because the turbo/blower is going to heat up the air when it is compressed, and heat will cause knock as I said before, and if the air is cooler to start with or it doesn't get as hot in the engine it will cause less knock letting you run more ignition timing or more boost. It is basically the same effect as running colder spark plugs. It would do the same thing for a N/A engine, just without as big of an effect. It will allow you to run more timing and things like that. And actually until the early 70's a lot of engines ran between 160 & 180 degrees, but once manufacturers had to start meeting emmisions they upped the temps to 195-210 because it is better for emissions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian P Posted July 3, 2003 Report Share Posted July 3, 2003 I have a 180 T-stat and that's as low as I will go. It normally stays at 185-200 anyway, depending on driving conditions Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phantomFE3 Posted July 3, 2003 Report Share Posted July 3, 2003 when i was talking about the thermostats i was talking about an NA engine, without forced induction, because, you know, not every car has forced air inducton Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
god910 Posted July 5, 2003 Report Share Posted July 5, 2003 It's just beautiful that show the dyno sheet from a friggin Camaro SS. I was looking at the dyno and was like damn. 309 HP from a Lumina. Then I saw the corner of the sheet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest TurboSedan Posted July 7, 2003 Report Share Posted July 7, 2003 i just plugged my TB heater lines with 5/8" (i think) heater core caps and clamps. everything seems to work great and it's been like that forever. i never noticed any performance gain tho. joshua Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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