Utoh, I can feel my engine! *check last post page 3

[19Cutlass94]

When I helped John and his turbo 3.1 swap we had some trouble getting the lower mount into place. We basically used a breaker bar and something else I cant remember but basically we just hit the post with the threads on it to move it over enough so that it would go into the hole.

 

once you get it lined up, it will fall into place. But since you got the one in, the other will be off... like I said the aftermarket ones are not perfect and if you dont get both posts in perfectly ( which would never happen anyways ) you have to convince it in.

[ns87]

alright. its dark here now. tomorrow after class I'll give it a shot. I still need to get my car towed though bc of that STUPID coolant line

[5speedz34]

alright. its dark here now. tomorrow after class I'll give it a shot. I still need to get my car towed though bc of that STUPID coolant line

 

That coolant line is $55 from the dealer. Otherwise just cut it where its clean and put a rubber hose in it's place.

 

BTW-When you go to tighten the mount down, I'm sure it'll fit the other bolt in.

[Addicted To Boost]

I broke that coolant line on my GP too and just replaced it with some high quality heater hose from O'reillys and some clamps to clamp the hose to the fender, holding it up and out of the way of blunt objects. The heater hose cost me $5 for 6 feet of it. Is holding up excellent to this day! (Just a DIY recommendation)

[ns87]

I broke that coolant line on my GP too and just replaced it with some high quality heater hose from O'reillys and some clamps to clamp the hose to the fender, holding it up and out of the way of blunt objects. The heater hose cost me $5 for 6 feet of it. Is holding up excellent to this day! (Just a DIY recommendation)

 

Or do you mean replace the entire metal piping with rubber hose? I guess if I can do it with Vacuum lines, I can do it with coolant line :lol:

[ns87]

Day 3:

 

I tried forcing it into place with a breaker bar. Nothing. This thing will not budge. I also bolted down the one bolt sticking out (very far). Still nothing. I lifted and lowered the engine again. Nothing. So my question of the day.

 

If I repair the coolant line, is my car drivable to a shop with just the one bolt tightened way down? My dogbones fit perfectly as well, and the hood closes. The shop is about 3 miles away, 30mph the whole way.

 

I'm thinking if I unbolt the bracket again, lower the motor mount into its holes, and THEN tighten the bracket again it might work. But three times is enough. Now I can let someone else do it.

 

Thanks again everyone

[19Cutlass94]

Heres what you need to do...

 

with the mount attached to the bracket, you CANNOT put the weight of the engine on the mount while trying to get it into place. It simply wont work. Put the jack under the oil pan. You said you can get one stud in there. Drop the engine so that there is about 1/4"-3/8" thread showing on the stud, then without touching the jack, move the other stud into place. This will take some fighting as it isnt easy, but thats the way you have to do it.

[ns87]

ok. I will do that tom. Thanks

[ns87]

19Cutlass94: The Savior from Schenectady! Motor mount is in!

 

On to this rusted out pipe. The connector between the metal pipe and rubber hose, is that just a crimp? FFS how does it come off?

 

[ns87]

BUMP> Thanks for stayin' with me people, the car is almost perfect.

 

All back together. God does that thing shift smoothly without the engine moving all over the place! anyway, here's latest problem.

 

Start up car

Idle goes where it should be

It stays there (AND EVERYTHING IS PERFECT), but within 5 seconds the light comes on and my exhaust sounds more "chug chugy" for lack of a better term. The car is lacking a little bit of power and response (like driving with a broken vac line)

 

Its code 23:

 

Defective MAT or IAT sensor

Open sensor ground circuit

Dirty or corroded connection(s) at MAT/IAT and/or ECM

Open circuit between the ECM and the MAT/IAT sensor

Defective ECM

 

IAT sensor is on the airbox right? Where the hell is the MAT? Anyone think raising or lowering the engine would mess with these wires at all?

 

I still think I'm going to bring it to a shop for this, but I don't want them to give me the run around

[19Cutlass94]

IAT is in the air hose yes... are you sure they dont mean MAP?

[ns87]

upon further reading...IAT and MAT are indeed the same sensor

[19Cutlass94]

Well you can try cleaning it. I duno if you have a K&N or not but that oil messes up alot of stuff.

[ns87]

unplugged and replugged the IAT sensor. That code is gone, but now I get Code 43.

 

Trouble Code 43 indicates that there may be a malfunction in the Electronic Spark Control (ESC) circuit. ESC is used to sense spark knock (pinging) and retard the timing to eliminate it. The knock sensor is located at the rear of the engine block. The ECM will retard the timing by as much as 20 degrees in 1 degree increments. A loss of knock sensor signal or loss of ground at the ESC module will cause the signal at the ECM to remain high. The ECM will act as if no knock is present, and may possibly result in engine damage, due to detonation.

 

Code 43 is set when:

 

* Voltage at Knock Sensor is above 4.8 volts or below .64 volts.

* Either condition is met for about 10 seconds.

 

Possible causes:

 

1. Open or shorted knock sensor

2. Loose knock sensor

3. Excessive mechanical noise within engine

4. Improper or incorrectly installed MEM-CAL in the ECM or defective ECM

5. Intermittent open in the EST line to the ignition module

 

This kinda scares me....I thought a car couldn't run without a knock sensor??

[GP1138]

Check the knock sensor, it's fairly easy to find down on the pass. side on the back of the engine block. You might have unplugged it by mistake.

[ns87]

yup just did some reading on it. As long as its a sensor and not my engine blowing up. Thanks a lot guys.

[ns87]

 

That all broke off the connector to my knock sensor. Now what? I have no JY here! and even if I did, I wouldn't want another brittle plastic connector

 

thanks in advanced guys