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Utoh, I can feel my engine! *check last post page 3


ns87

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If I can "feel" my engine idling through the brake pedal, I need new lower motor mounts? :lol: The subframe is so soaked in oil, I cant really tell if they burst. The dogbones are only 3 years old.

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If its not a misfire, take a can of brake clean and go to town where the lower engine mount is. Once its halfway clean, youll be able to tell if its dead or not.

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  • 2 months later...

sorry to bump this!!

 

I'm in the process of changing the lower motor mount but are there nuts to loosen on the top of the mount? or does the engine just rest ontop of it? I'm afraid to jack the engine up incase I missed something. Fast help is appreciated!! :high5:

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there's 4 or 5 bolts to remove on the bracket between the engine and mount, and you'd also need to remove the two nuts holding the mount to the frame. You need to jack up the engine considerably. Be very careful, watch the axle, and wiring so nothing gets pulled and damaged.

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I must be missing something.

 

Besides the two lower nuts that bolt to the subframe, I found two more for the bracket on the front of the engine. I just dont see ANY nuts at the back of the bracket.

 

When I try to jack the engine up (I have a long flat piece of wood) the engine tilts INTO the firewall. What am I missing? Is this because I have the subframe up on jackstands?

 

Sorry guys, I wish I had my FSM, but I left it at home

 

Thanks again in advance

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You may be able to reach the remaining bolts thru the wheelwell, OR by tilting the engine forward and going from the top. Try jacking up closer to the tranny, or even on the tranny pan (with wood between!)

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:eek: :cry:

 

My car pushed the rear wheel chocks back. Now the engine sits too far back in the engine bay. When I jack it up, things keep hitting the firewall. I can't even get the bolts to line up for the old motor mount now.

 

I'm going to try what you said Brian. thanks, and I'll be back

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I'm at a total loss for words. The brand new jack I bought today bent as I jacked up the engine :lol:. The oil pan didn't bend, but my jack did

GoingOut033.jpg

 

This is the front bolt for the motor mount. I can't line it up anymore

GoingOut034.jpg

 

The back one is lined up

 

GoingOut035.jpg

 

I guess I'm going to borrow my friends car and return the jack. Hopefully something will work out today!

 

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that's really close. Sometimes you need to "persuade" the mount to get back in place. If you look down under the hood, in the cup where the mount sits, there's a spot where you can insert a prybar and wiggle between the cup and the metal part of the mount. With some fiddling it will go in. You might have to lift up on the engine a little bit to relieve some force, so get yourself a real jack ;O)

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You've been more than kind Mr P!

 

I got another jack, and when I jacked up on the trans side, the bolt fell back into place. I buttoned everything up so I can make my 3pm appointment. This job may be beyond me. IDK, but the car is back together and I didn't bend the oil pan like I was afraid at least :lol:

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Awesome. If it makes you feel better, I did this job on my old '90 Cutlass. I somehow managed to break off the AC high pressure sensor (on the DRIVERS side of the car) I don't know how it happened. Maybe the airbox or something else went up against it while I was lifting the other side of the engine. Unfortunately, I lost all the original ice cold R12, MAN I was pissed!!!

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ugh, that was the worst part of getting that mount in.. getting the studs into place.

 

you really removed the whole bracket though? shit I just used a boxed offset wrench and removed the two nuts on the top of the bracket that are on the mount's studs :lol: WAY easier than getting around the A/C compressor and all that bullshit.

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i dont know mine were easy. 4 hours for all 4. and its upstate NY. I got the bolts and nuts from behind the innerfender. easy job. But the only thing is something easy for me can be very difficult for someone else. Best of luck to you. best tip i have is remove the wheels and inner fender and you can almost see the mounts :mrgreen:

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The mount, is that stupid giant horseshoe looking thing right? Well, I mean the metal around the mount.

 

Yea, get a real jack. :eek:

 

 

 

Yup, that horseshoe looking thing is below the mount. Wait, what do you guys mean by real jack?

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The mount, is that stupid giant horseshoe looking thing right? Well, I mean the metal around the mount.

 

Yea, get a real jack. :eek:

 

 

 

Yup, that horseshoe looking thing is below the mount. Wait, what do you guys mean by real jack?

 

A real jack; ie-brand name from Sears, or somewhere reputable etc, and not Wal-Mart.

 

A jack should never do that.

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The mount, is that stupid giant horseshoe looking thing right? Well, I mean the metal around the mount.

 

Yea, get a real jack. :eek:

 

 

 

Yup, that horseshoe looking thing is below the mount. Wait, what do you guys mean by real jack?

 

A real jack; ie-brand name from Sears, or somewhere reputable etc, and not Wal-Mart.

 

A jack should never do that.

 

it was advance auto, but I agree completely. That was a bad decision and of poor quality lol

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Day 2:

 

I got the mount changed. THe first two times I put it in backwards ( :dunno: :bash:). The third time I'm almost positive it is in correctly, but only one bolt pops through the hole. I raised and lowered the engine at least 5 times. I also managed to break the rusted solid metal coolant line that runs along the passenger fender and onto the firewall.

 

I'm getting my car towed tomrrow. I was never really very good at fixing cars, and I guess this is over my head :redface:

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