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Posted

OK, need some quick ideas here.

 

96 GP, drivers side top bolt trailing arm... stuck. I know how to use heat, PB blaster, breaker bars, and I did that. Problem is that the breaker bar worked TOO good!

 

Know how there is a metal sleeve inside the rubber that the bolt goes through? Well apparently the bolt is stuck to the inside of that metal sleeve so bad that when I applied all of the torque I could, the sleeve broke away from the rubber leaving the bolt still seized in the sleeve! So I can turn the bolt, the nut is off, but when I turn the bolt the whole sleeve twists in the rubber with it. I've hit it as much as I can with a hammer, but I can never get a real good blow to it due to the angle you have to hit it at.

 

I really need to find a way to get this out ASAP. Am I going to have to cut it? What would be the best way to cut it if I have to? Any ideas on how to get some real good blows to the bolt so it comes out?

 

I don't know how this got so stuck... all of the other bolts came off fine... the car barely has any rust period.

Posted

Sucks don't it?

Happened to me and Q-ball too....

 

I had to get in there with an angle grinder with a cut off disk and cut between the mount and the arm on both sides. Being careful not to mangle the mounting bracket is the hardest part. I tried first using a hack saw, that didn't work, didn't even scratch the sleeve, then I used a jig saw with a longer blade, this time I scratched it, but the blade was ruined and my arms felt like jello afterwards. Once I got in there with a cut off disk the arms were off the car in 15 minutes (and 2 disks). Just be sure to put a blanket or something over you while your under the car cutting, or wear cover alls.... I didn't on the first cut and by the end of the cut I was covered in a rubber film and stunk of burning rubber afterwards...

 

*edit* hitting it with a hammer won't do any good... my brother went to town on one with an air hammer and it didn't so much as budge

 

Jamie

Posted

I'll third that, however I suggest taking the head of the bolt off rather then cutting through the trailing arm and rubber and sleeve....

Posted

I'll third that, however I suggest taking the head of the bolt off rather then cutting through the trailing arm and rubber and sleeve....

 

I thought about that, but if you cut the head and the nut off you will have to stretch the mounting bracket apart to get the arm out. The bolt would be cut off to the outside width rather than the inside. This would work if you could just cut the head off and slide the bolt out, but you can't. What happens is the bolt seizes in the hardened steel sleeve, so even cutting the head and nut off won't let the bolt slide out.

If you end up cutting it on the outsides of the mount, you will have to bend the mount on the body apart to get it out, then you will have to bend it back together before you put your new arms in.

 

Jamie

Posted

I cut the head off the bolt, i did stretch the mounting bracket to get the trailing arm out, not recommended, cause if that bracket snaps your fudged.

Posted

well when i did mine i just torched the sleeve and bolt out :mrgreen: problem was that where the arm mounted to the body was rotted out so i had to have the whole section replaced :mad: 650 is what that cost me

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