Intlcutlass Posted July 1, 2003 Report Share Posted July 1, 2003 Whenever I go over big bumps/holes , my dash bounces up and down a little (mostly from the pass side). Anyone have any ideas on how to fix this. I have looked under the dash a bit, and I don't see any hardware missing or anything. Should I install some sore of brace? Does anyone have similar problems, and if so , how did you fix it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GnatGoSplat Posted July 1, 2003 Report Share Posted July 1, 2003 I had a similar problem, and I had to buy 2 braces. Here is the TSB: ELIMINATE SQUEAK AND RATTLE NOISE IN INSTRUMENT PANEL #89-T-56 - (02/27/1989)MODELS/YEARS 1988-89 OLDSMOBILE CUTLASS SUPREME MODELS Elimination of squeak and rattle noise from the instrument panel (I/P) area may be accomplished with the use of the following procedure: VIN Breakpoints All 1988 and 1989 Cutlass Supremes built prior to KD343202 require both upper and lower braces. All 1989 Cutlass Supremes built after KD343202 and before KD358417 require upper brace, P/N 10143726 only. Parts Reguired: 10143726 I/P Upper Bracket 10143728 I/P Lower Bracket 11509709 Bolt / Screw Parts are currently available from GMSPO, additional parts required: 3M ® Foam Tape # 06370 or equivalent Adhevise backed black felt (local fabric store) Procedure: --------- 1. Remove: (See Service Manual Section 8C) A). Defroster outlet grill. . I.P. compartment (glove box) and light switch. C). Cluster trim plate bezel. D). Instrument panel pad. E). Radio and speakers. F). I.P. sound insulator - passenger side. G). Three (3) upper right carrier attaching bolts. H). One lower right carrier attaching bolt. Right hand side of carrier should now be loose. Carefully pull carrier slightly outward. 2. Align I/P bracket P/N 10143726, behind and along right outer side of carrier, the large pre-drilled hole at top of bracket must align with first upper mounting hole in the carrier. Note location of predrilled holes in bracket to be used for rivet and bolt attachments. 3. Using templet #1 mark location for drilling two 1 /8 inch holes at top right of carrier (See Figure 1). 4. Using templet #2 mark location for drilling two 1 /8 inch holes at lower edge of carrier (See Figure 1). Also, use templet to mark location of hole to be drilled in bracket lower side. 5. Drill all holes at previously marked locations, and attach bracket with one rivet at top of carrier. 6. Bracket P/N 10143728 is to be installed on the extreme right under side of the carrier. 7. Remove and discard J-nut on lower carrier attachment. 8. Align lower bracket between hole drilled in side of carrier (Step 4) and lower carrier attachment, and bolt in place. 9. Install two remaining rivets and tighten bolts. Move carrier assembly into place and reinstall attaching bolts. 10. Add adhesive back felt strips to back of cluster bezel and front of carrier as shown in Figure 2 (4 locations). 11. Remove radio speakers and apply 3M ® Foam Rubber #06370 cut in 1 /2 inch squares opposite attachments. See Figure 2. 12. Apply 2 inch strip of foam tape to carrier beneath forward edge of radio, and a 1 1 /2 inch strip at left side of carrier as indicated in Figure 2. 13. Reinstall all previously removed parts. 14. Check glove box door for rattle by taping lightly on door in closed position. If rattle is present, add strips of foam as required to eliminate rattle condition. Oh yeah, the upper brace has long since been discontinued, and I had to track it down via Partsvoice and I paid a ridiculous amount for that stupid piece of stamped sheetmetal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Intlcutlass Posted July 1, 2003 Author Report Share Posted July 1, 2003 anyway you could give me approx dimensions, and shape, I could make one myself? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Intlcutlass Posted July 1, 2003 Author Report Share Posted July 1, 2003 Also, does that mean that all Cutlass's 1990 and forward have those braces? If so , i'll just yank em from a j/y. How big were they? Were they hard to install? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GnatGoSplat Posted July 1, 2003 Report Share Posted July 1, 2003 No, Cutlass 1990-newer had redesigned dashes! The lower brace is a metal rod with 2 flattened "ears" on both ends with bolt holes. One end attached to an existing bolt on the bottom of the dash, and the other end attached to the upper bracket. Back when I installed these (1995 or 96) the lower brace was still available. I don't know if it still is. It was just $6 or so. It's possible this lower brace was a real production part, I don't really know. The upper brace was sheetmetal. If you take off your upper dash pad, on the side of the dash you will see it's sort of a wedge shape that is covered by the dash. That whole part was sheetmetal, and it was bent and had a hole in it so that part of it matched up to one of the mounting bolts on the top of the dash. The brace attaches to the side of the dash carrier using rivets and the lower brace is screwed into it through a hole. It's hard to explain, I'll have to see if I can dig up a drawing (I don't think I have any photos, I didn't have a digital camera back then). The upper brace is the one that was almost impossible to get, even 7-8yrs ago. It is a custom part that was designed to fix the design flaw, not a production part. I was desperate to stop the shaking, it was as if the dash was going to jump right into my lap, so I paid $70 for that 70-cent piece of stamped sheetmetal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Intlcutlass Posted July 1, 2003 Author Report Share Posted July 1, 2003 Thanks for the help Shawn....your a good man.... Just an FYI-- The directions you posted say that the upper & lower braced are needed for vin's prior to KD343202. I am Vin # KD317829...... "She's old, but she'll hold" -Bill Paxton from the movie U571 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Intlcutlass Posted July 1, 2003 Author Report Share Posted July 1, 2003 Shawn- I just got quoted 75+shipping for that brace. If you find any pic's or drawings, please let me know. $75.00 is freaken insane, I can make one better for a fraction of the cost if I know what it looks like. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GnatGoSplat Posted July 1, 2003 Report Share Posted July 1, 2003 Which brace did you get quoted $75 for? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Intlcutlass Posted July 1, 2003 Author Report Share Posted July 1, 2003 the 10143726 upper bracket Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GnatGoSplat Posted July 1, 2003 Report Share Posted July 1, 2003 Ok, I'll dig around for diagrams. It's definitely not worth that much. It's just a piece of stamped sheetmetal probably 10-12" long and 2" tall. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Intlcutlass Posted July 1, 2003 Author Report Share Posted July 1, 2003 I have said it many times, You are a great asset, and a virtuall wealth of knowledge for the W-body owners. (insert emoticon of smiley face kissing ass here) Thanks Shawn.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GnatGoSplat Posted July 2, 2003 Report Share Posted July 2, 2003 Lee, I dug up a copy of the TSB I had on my hard drive that also had drawings of the brackets. I emailed it to you (a Word document). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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