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91 Cutlass Supreme SL Remote programming


Darkness

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Well, I got a used remote off of eBay that looks like it is really good shape. I read the FAQ, popped in 2 new 3v batteries (Duracell), opened my trunk, found the 1-pin connectror, grounded it, heard the lock and unlock of the doors with the trunk release clack for good measure.

 

The first attempt, I pushed each button individually, but got no response. The second attempt, I hald the door look and door unlike buttons simultaneously for ten seconds and still got nothing.

 

Is it my receiver unit? Would I get a response to learning mode if the solder points were bad?

 

Thanks in advance for input or ideas.

 

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prolly a solderability issue with your keyless entry module. that is a very common problem. There is a sticky around somewhere in the forum. is this a second remote or is this an attempt to make the keyless entry work?

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It's an attempt to make the keyless entry work. The original fob was lost before I got the car. I wouldn't think that batteries would be an issue, but I purchased a pack a 3 volts that said "Medical Device" on them. I figured if it was the same size, etc, it should work. This might sound like a dumb question, but are there different voltage batteries that are the same size? I wouldn't think so, but am not sure.

 

Maybe it's the batteries. These are Duracell DL2032, and I think the fob calls for type CR2032.

 

Update: I think I have found the issue. It IS the batteries. The Duracells are a bit too tall, not allowing all the contacts to come into, uh, contact. I'm going to pick up some CR2032s on the way home and that should take car of things.

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Just for the people who are wondering or might need the info in the future; I just popped in a pair of Energizer 2026's in the remote and it works like a charm.

 

2032s are just too tall, regardless of what letters come before them.

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