GutlessSupreme Posted July 17, 2007 Report Share Posted July 17, 2007 Getrag 282 vs. 4T60 (as per 1990 Grand Prix service manual) This is a wiring guide for swapping in a 282 in place of the 4T60. Colors are true to the '90 GP FSM, as mentioned above, so different years/models might have different colors. Should all be the same from '88 to '93, but I can't guarantee that. Along the way I made some page notations in reference to the manual that might help. Highlighted in red is the stuff that needs to be changed, I included the complete routing of the wires so I knew what the whole picture looked like. Guide: C100: pass. firewall main harness C202: column harness under dash Similarities: Vehicle Speed Sensor (ref: 8A-33) Same for both transaxles, wires shorter (?) on Getrag (can't remember if actual connector is different or not); YEL from A on speed sensor to C8 on ECM, PPL from B on speed sensor to C2 on ECM Differences: Upshift Indicator On Ins. Cluster (unnecessary, do if you wish) Original: ECM B7 (tan/blk, white connector) to TCC Sol to brake switch to fuse block 5 Indic Fuse New: ECM B7 (tan/blk) to E1 on C100 (Interior side is prewired, just worry about the engine side) to D6 Instrument Cluster, D5 Instrument Cluster (PNK/BLK) to fuse block 5 Indic Fuse Summary: TAN/BLK wire going to TCC Solenoid is rewired straight to E1 on the firewall connector, bypassing the TCC SOL. Clutch switch/tranny position switch (ref: Starter & Charging System 8A-30-0) Original: PPL from Starter Solenoid to E on Tranny POS Switch, YEL from G on Tranny POS Switch to B3 on C100, YEL from B3 on C100 to B6 on C202, YEL to (START) IGN Switch New: PPL from starter solenoid to B3 on C100, PPL to Clutch Switch, YEL from Clutch Switch to B6 on C202, YEL to (START) IGN Switch Summary: Thick purple and yellow wires are cut from tranny position switch and spliced together to bypass the switch. Yellow wire on C202 Connector is cut and rerouted through clutch switch before going back to C202. Kills IGN if clutch is not depressed. Cruise Control (ref: 8A-34, 8A-201-11) Original: BRN from B from Brake Light Switch to G (Disengage Input) on Cruise Control Module New: BRN from B on Brake Light Switch to B on Cruise Control Clutch Switch, BRN/WHT from A on Cruise Control Clutch Switch to G on Cruise Control Module Summary: Brown wire going to brake light switch is cut, cruise cutout is spliced in between cut. Reverse Light Switch (ref: Back Up Lights 8A-112-0) Original: LT GRN from C4 on C100 to F on Tranny Position Switch, ORN from D on Tranny POS Switch to Luggage Compartment Release Fuse (RS underhood Electrical Center 15 AMP) New: LT GRN from C4 on C100 to B on Backup Lights Switch, BRN from A on Backup Lights Switch to 13 ALT FUSE in RS Electrical Center 10 AMP* *You can leave ORN going to the LCR fuse, no need to change. Summary: Light green and orange wires are cut from tranny position switch and spliced into reverse light connector. AIR Switch (Emissions, ref: 8A-20-4) - I don't have this switch so I didn't do anything with it. BLK/PNK from A18 on ECM to A on AIR Select Switching Valve, BRN from B on AIR SSV to 13 ALT FUSE 10 AMP in RS Electrical Center NOTE that on TGP's, A18 goes to the wastegate solenoid. I'm sure no one is ever going to swap in an AIR system so this shouldn't be a problem. At this point, if you have everything apart and want to be really neat, you can remove all remaining sections of wiring from the TCC solenoid and tranny position switch from their source. I reused a lot of the wiring with my new splices and just removed whatever was left, pins/plugs and all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bake82 Posted September 21, 2007 Report Share Posted September 21, 2007 Tony! Nice write up. Got a question tho for you. What wiring do you need to do for the P/N safety switch? I'm about to do the wiring tomorrow on my harness for the 5 speed. Would be great if you knew it off the top of your head! thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bake82 Posted September 21, 2007 Report Share Posted September 21, 2007 Tony! Nice write up. Got a question tho for you. What wiring do you need to do for the P/N safety switch? I'm about to do the wiring tomorrow on my harness for the 5 speed. Would be great if you knew it off the top of your head! thanks! I'll quote myself here. After doing some more research here, it looks like if I splice the yellow and purple wire in the engine bay together that will bypass the P/N safety switch which will allow me to rev over 4kRPM? I'm not looking to wire in the clutch safety switch, 1 I don't have it, and 2, I'll be fine without it. So do allI need to do is splive the yellow/purple wires together? Thanks for any help!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GutlessSupreme Posted September 22, 2007 Author Report Share Posted September 22, 2007 Yep, splicing purple/yellow will bypass it. Purple is the power source for the ignition switch circuit, with the yellow end leading to the ignition switch. With the auto, the tranny position switch only only closes the circuit in park or neutral position. So just hardwiring the two together will leave the ignition always hot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bake82 Posted September 22, 2007 Report Share Posted September 22, 2007 Yep, splicing purple/yellow will bypass it. Purple is the power source for the ignition switch circuit, with the yellow end leading to the ignition switch. With the auto, the tranny position switch only only closes the circuit in park or neutral position. So just hardwiring the two together will leave the ignition always hot. Thanks Tony!! Will allow me to go ahead and finish up the engine bay wiring today and get everything ready for the motor to drop into the car!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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