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Posted

1994 Grand Prix

3100

4spd Auto

 

Today I finally got around to changing the plugs. Changed the front three with no problems. Started to change the back three, and broke the middle plug, GRRRRR! Out of the dozen or so cars I've owned, this is the first plug I've broken.

Is there any way I can get this out without pulling the head? Any advice, please!

Thanks

Jon

 

Posted

how broken? did the ceramic break off or did the metal hex head part shear off the threaded part?

 

Posted

Gonna try tomorrow to remove it WITHOUT pulling the head.

I'll remove the alternator and bracket, colipack, ignition module and dogbones, move the engine forward and see how much room I'm gonna have.

I'll let you know!

Jon

 

Posted

Only thing to watch out for is debris in the cylinder area. Could cause problems at start up..

Posted

its kinda looks like a drill bit, but with reverse threads. Its designed to grab whats left of the bolt after drilling it out, and thread it out. Kinda hard to explain..

Posted

You drill a hole into the broken off piece, and then hit it with an easy oil. It grabs the small hole you drilled and digs in to the surrounding metal and you'll once again have a grip on the plug..but depending how seized it is in there it may not work.

Posted

how in god's name did you do that? it must have been in there tight as hell!

Posted

that sucks teh balls. figures that whenever something bad happens, it happens on the back 3 that are like impossible to work on

Posted

I got it out, no debris in the cylinder, but the car won't idle. Computer trouble code "MAP sensor or low circuit".

Bad MAP sensor or vacuum leak? If leak, where could it be?

 

Posted

sometimes a faulty plug will break like that. it is more common on ac delco originals

Posted

Theres a main vacume line on the back of the motor, actually 2 of them. They come out under the upper plenum, right next to the transmission dipstick.

Posted

I got it out, no debris in the cylinder, but the car won't idle. Computer trouble code "MAP sensor or low circuit".

Bad MAP sensor or vacuum leak? If leak, where could it be?

 

did you forget to hook up a vac line?

Posted

I can hear a hiss from around the location of the canister purge valve solenoid at the back of the engine. Do these crack? If so, would a leaky purge valve set off the MAP error code on the computer?

This is gonna drive me nuts!

Thanks

Jon

 

Posted

I can hear a hiss from around the location of the canister purge valve solenoid at the back of the engine. Do these crack? If so, would a leaky purge valve set off the MAP error code on the computer?

This is gonna drive me nuts!

Thanks

Jon

 

The vaccuum hose is about the size of a coffee stir straw. It is black and runs across the back of the engine. You can pull it off by blowing on it. More likely than not, it is hanging down where you can't see it. I would start from the drivers side as it is probably still connected around the egr valve.

 

If you need pics, I can only give you the pics of what the 3.4 looks like, so...

Posted

Pics would be great, thanks!

Jon

 

Took me forever to log back in. Been busy with my girls. Anyway, the pic titles are self explaintory. The vacuum hose runs from the EGR - along the top of the firewall - to the left side (front) of the engine into a vacuum control valve which is hooked to the manifold (this is how it gets the vacuum) - through the firewall - into the A/C valve control unit which is under the glove box.

 

[attachment deleted by admin] Removed to free up storage space.

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