94CutlassXtreme Posted July 7, 2007 Report Share Posted July 7, 2007 So it's been a year since my Cutlass last ran. I kinda gave up after it stranded me for the second time. Here's an overview. - Cranks but doesn't start - No injector pulse, but there is fuel pressure at the rail. - Fuel pump primes for 3 seconds after cranking. - No engine light on dash when trying to start, which means no signal from the ECM. Basically the last time the car died, it was like someone flipped a switch. I had just finished a 100 mph "blast" (stupid I know) and I pulled into a conviniece store, let it idle for a few, put it in reverse and she just shut down. Once again, no engine light, cranks and cranks. What I replaced when I tried to get it running the first time it happened: - Fuel Pump - Fuel pump relay - Crank Sensor...the one behind the crank pulley. - ICM - 3 new coils - ECM (two junkyard ones that I had programmed, and the one that's in it now is a reman that was reprogrammed.) I also ohmed out each injector to see if one was shorted but they were all perfect. One weird thing that I noticed was that with the key on, each injector had power and ground constantly. Now isn't each injector driver in the ECM supposed to pulse these? They even still had ground when I removed the ECM from the vehicle. I could get the injector to spray fuel if I provided ground with my test light. I also did the passkey relearn. The car still wouldnt start afterwards, but after poking around and moving some wires...she started and the ECM was powering up. So now, how many drivers does this car have that power up the ECM? Anyone have any pinouts that point to what wires I need to test? Anyone ever have a similar problem? To recap the car is a 1994 Olds Cutlass Supreme 3100. OBD 1.5 FTL! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Addicted To Boost Posted July 7, 2007 Report Share Posted July 7, 2007 Had the same thing happen on my buddies GP- shut off like a lightswitch and refused to start, we replaced the crank position sensor and she fired right up. If that isn't it, I'd replace the ICM. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
19Cutlass94 Posted July 7, 2007 Report Share Posted July 7, 2007 Make sure you have spark going to the plugs... if so this will rule out your ICM. If thats good then like said I would look at the crank position sensor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94CutlassXtreme Posted July 7, 2007 Author Report Share Posted July 7, 2007 Yea but would no signal from the crank sensor cause the ECM to not power up? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
19Cutlass94 Posted July 7, 2007 Report Share Posted July 7, 2007 when the ignition is turned on, the ECM should be getting power. Have you check the battery cables at all? We had a truck here that would crank and crank and crank with no start and it was a bad negative battery cable... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94CutlassXtreme Posted July 7, 2007 Author Report Share Posted July 7, 2007 I replaced the negative battery cable 2 years ago. It was corroded underneath the terminal lug where the ground splits off to the rad support and the engine block. So I made one from some universal cables. Worked awesome and my battery was even charging better. But with out the negative batt cable, nothing would happen when I turned the key..... Where does the ECM recieve ground from? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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