damn car!

[warwgn3]

Ok, so now my car is leaking 3 major fluids.

 

I've had it with my Lumina. I don't beat on it or ram rod it, but every time I turn around there's something wrong with it, and I just don't have the patience to deal with it anymore.

 

Remember a while ago when my serpentine belt broke in a million pieces? Well I just disovered that I'm losing coolant. There's no visible leak (no green puddle), so my brother thinks that I might have overheated the engine, and blown the head gaset while trying to limp the car home. How can that be? there's no white smoke coming out of the tailpipe, and the engine is running like normal. So where is this coolant going?

 

I also found out that the engine is leaking a fair bit of oil. Which is nothing new to me. Most old high mileage engines start leaking oil at some point, but its getting to the point where I really do have to check the oil level at every fill up. I used to go 5 or 6 fill ups, without checking and it'd still be fine.

 

And not only that, I'm leaking gas too, Its not pissing out of the lines at all, but it's coming from somewhere around the tank, and only happens when I fill up. I usually get the smell of leaking gas after filling up but there's no visible leak, other than the puddle on the ground. The bottom of the tank is bone dry!! so where is this leak coming from??

 

It's to the point now where I won't be able to park the car on the driveway anymore.

 

I'm done dealing with all this crap. What's gonna happen next? The brake lines? Maybe the tranny? This is bullshit! I'm just going to drive it till it drops, and buy another car. Maybe a Chevy Caprice or Buick Toad-Blaster might be in order here.

[Crazy K]

I offer you a good faith offer of a very lerge box of pizza rolls for your car.

 

All the issues you list are readily repairable for cheaper than you could get a different car for.

 

 

sounds like a hole on the gas tank seam or filler neck...

probably a leaking return line from the heatercore, the heater core itself, or water-pump...

Distributor gasket O-ring (find the how to fix it write-up for the DOHC) and valve covers

 

I'd have this all fixed myself for less than $100 in parts. (if you know how to fix stuff)

[warwgn3]

I don't know how to fix stuff, especially with this car. I'm afraid to touch anything on it with the way it is set up, so I always end up taking it to my brothers shop for repairs..

 

$800 alternator change?

$300 starter change?

 

having to take the plevna off to change spark plugs?

having to take the front axle off to change the alternator?

I don't even want to know about the timing belt!

and other various fucked up procedures?

 

This is not a normal car!! I can't even add coolant and forget it like a normal car, I have to bleed it in places which gives me more chances to fuck things up. This car is definately not your typical easy to work on pre-1990's OHV V-8 that I'm used to.

[slick]

You don't have to pull out an axle to do the alternator.

 

$300 starter change?!! Holy crap you got raped!

[Andrew]

$800 alt change!! good lord, i only paid like $300 for that on a 3.4 and i thought that was bad. alt included too!

plenum removal to change the rear plugs is almost a requirement. it can be done with it still on, but its difficult.

 

how does your oil look? milky at all?

[slick]

The max that should be charged for an alt change (going by the books labor) should be near the $500 range, unless the shops labor fee is well over $100/hour.

[warwgn3]

You don't have to pull out an axle to do the alternator.

 

$300 starter change?!! Holy crap you got raped!

A little exaduration there... but who in their right mind designs an engine and puts the alternator in a place where you have to take the front tire off, and access it though the wheel housing?

 

My brother is always saving my butt with this car. If it hadn't been for him, I'd be screwed. But he is really getting frustrated with it, there is always something to make a seemingly simple procedure a hell of a lot worse.

 

He is a mechanic, and knows what he is doing, but when it comes to me... You're talking to a guy that is used to tinkering around with old RWD OHV pushrod V-8s, like a small block Chevy. This FWD DOHC V-6 set up is way out of my league.

 

[warwgn3]

The max that should be charged for an alt change (going by the books labor) should be near the $500 range, unless the shops labor fee is well over $100/hour.

 

Labour fees around here are $75/hour, and don't forget the exchange rate. Not only that, everything is cheaper in The States. When I was in MI, I bought a chocolate bar, a big bag of chips, a ding-dong, and a 2L bottle of coke, and it all cost less than $5 US. Getting the equivilant of that in Ontario would cost between $10-$15 cdn.

 

Car repairs up here are more expensive than you might think..

[slick]

I forgot about the insane taxes that you canadian's have, plus the exchange rate. I guess $800 would be right on for doing the alternator. Most shops can do it less than 1.5 hours or so, but will charge the full 4 or 5 hour labor that it takes to do it.

[warwgn3]

how does your oil look? milky at all?

 

Nope, oil looks fine, everything on that car looks and runs as it should.

[slick]

Alright, just did the exhange + taxes.

 

$500 US = $528 and some change in CAD. I then added 19% taxes to that (I've been charged anywhere from 13%-16%, but I did it high because I have no idea what they are like in your area), and come up with a grand total of about $630. Now, I'm assuming that the $800 included the alternator as well, so another $170 for the alternator + $630 gets you that $800.

 

I just couldn't imagine paying that much to do it. I would atleast attempt to do it, and if I fail, then start calling around. Undoing bolts is undoing bolts. Theres nothing different about it all.

[IRONDOG442]

Stop taking cross country trips with it pulling a trailer

[warwgn3]

Stop taking cross country trips with it pulling a trailer

 

Buy me a car that can do a better job towing a trailer, and I will.

[89GP_SE]

Depending on where you go for the alternator (most people choose canadian tire) and for alternators alone run from 250 to 350 dollars! I do agree that the 3.4 DOHC is a stupid motor, and not so reliable after 15 years, you really should have done your homework before you bought the car and went through all the pain of safeties and emissions hell that I remember you went through. A 3.1 would have pulled your camper around just fine, and they are a heck of a lot easier to work on.

 

Good luck with your car in the future.

[rockfangd]

I offer you a good faith offer of a very lerge box of pizza rolls for your car.

 

All the issues you list are readily repairable for cheaper than you could get a different car for.

 

 

sounds like a hole on the gas tank seam or filler neck...

probably a leaking return line from the heatercore, the heater core itself, or water-pump...

Distributor gasket O-ring (find the how to fix it write-up for the DOHC) and valve covers

 

I'd have this all fixed myself for less than $100 in parts. (if you know how to fix stuff)

thank you crazy-k you took the words out of my mouth.

all i have to say is been there done that

[jeremy]

A little exaduration there... but who in their right mind designs an engine and puts the alternator in a place where you have to take the front tire off,

 

fwiw: I had two cars where you had to remove the REAR passenger tire to change the alternator

[Andrew]

A little exaduration there... but who in their right mind designs an engine and puts the alternator in a place where you have to take the front tire off,

 

fwiw: I had two cars where you had to remove the REAR passenger tire to change the alternator

fiero and MR2?

[IRONDOG442]

Stop taking cross country trips with it pulling a trailer

 

Buy me a car that can do a better job towing a trailer, and I will.

 

Already did look up Toledo area 1998 Olds Intrigues on craigs list!!!

[Rally_T-115]

Hi. I'm Doug's brother. I'm the guy that's always sucked into fixing this car. This car was also bought off of my co-worker who owned it since new and has all records.

 

Doug. Your car is a NICE car. Yes the rockers are rusted. The back door is dented. But Doug. The car drives like a dream! It's so smooth on the highway. The cruise control works! Everything works! Well except the tape deck(sloww) but the stereo sounds good. It's a NICE CAR! Ever since the rear brake upgrade, your car STILL stops on a dime and gives you 3 cents change. I really like driving your car when I get the chance. It's just well, so nice to drive. When I step on the gas, I'm not used to how it wants to GO! RRUMMMP! "whoah, easy on that tip-in". And that car flies when you get on it! Well you know what I mean!

 

Except that it's OLD! Things wear out and need replacing! It's got a shopping list of problems, besides the above, coolant level sensor, rear shock mounts, turn signal switch, shifter indicator on the console, blower motor resistor (only works on 3 of 4 speeds)... Wow, that's all I can think of!

 

And yes, you are friggen rough on it, don't lie! Ease the gas on! Come to a complete stop before shifting from R to OD. And you never check on things!

 

I was suprised this time around that you drove with the trailer in OD for the entire trip From Ottawa, through Detroit, Chicago, Sault Ste.Marie and back home. The previous trip you used D the entire trip and you were raving about how well the car did; so I am wondering why you used OD this time around. But oh well it's your engine and trans.

 

I was also very disappointed to learn that you drove that entire trip and never even opened the hood, even after you got me to top up your coolant, which took a whole 4 litres of 50/50 mix, so you should've known to monitor the situation. There was no coolant leaking that I could see under the car so I I figured you'd keep an eye on it during the trip and just top it up as needed in the morning. I mean jeez you're pulling a trailer that far I figure you'd check on things from time to time. I don't fix what I can't see, and If I don't know how bad the problem is... Because at the time, I just figured the coolant had never been checked for a whole year or something. So I just topped it up for you, replaced under warranty the balljoint that was on the verge of exploding (gee I wonder how that happened), changed your oil (which didn't look out of the ordinary), checked your other fluids, drove your car home, (see? free delivery!) PLUS I got your a/c working again in the evening hours (hurray for redtek!), and sent you on your way.

 

Also yes you are wayy exaggerating some of these parts. OK. First off. The Alternator? At my work Lists for $251 for a quality tested reman, and pays 3.2h labour to install. 3.2 x $79 (today's rate at my work) = $252.80 labour to install, so the alternator and labour is $503.80, finally add 14% taxes and that would come to a grand total of $574.33 - thats if you were to have it changed at my work.

You however got the alternator at shop cost plus taxes, and free installation. It may have taken me four days to change it as I was working on it in my spare time lying on the ground on the cold garage floor having coolant spill all over me from the rusty heater pipe that runs by there which broke from lowering the side of the engine down, etc etc; but that's the price you pay for having it done so cheap. It was also my first time changing an alternator on a 3.4L DOHC and yes people in this case I did have to pull the driveshaft out as there is a heat shield above it which needed to be removed in order to access the alternator. So let it be known that now that I have done one I know what to do next time, which hasn't happened yet.

 

Starter lists at $241.48, and at my work pays 1.6h to install (ouch, I didn't really think it was that hard once I got it done.) You got it for list price (not shop cost this time, I want something for doing this in my free time now), and free installation. I covered the taxes.

 

As for that gas leak, well it only leaks when it's full, but whenever it's in the shop it's alway got a low tank so I can't really see where it's coming from, and in anycase you asked me how much to replace the tank. It pays 2.5h, and you told me that that's too much, and you'll just live with it. Well then fine we (my work) left it alone. I cannot change the tank at home. You just have to remember to not park on the driveway while you have a full tank, once it has gone down it's ok. It's just that we just have to remind you...

 

So now back to that coolant situation. I think it goes back to you driving around for 4 kilometers @ 80km/h with the temp gauge pinned at the red line, with no p/s, a/c, alt, or w/p. There was never any problem before that. But now I really have to try and find out. Remember I said I took your car for a boot the other night? When I got back home, I popped the hood and felt the upper rad hose. There was no pressure. But there also was no coolant smell. Hmm. This was at 11:30 at night so I didn't do anything else. Just checking. I'm gonna have to pressure test the cooling system and pray that it's NOT IN THE ENGINE. I'm hoping that it's not that bad. I don't think it's the trailer's fault.

 

I'd like to see what you'd've done if the Genie Lamp (oil light) came on. Keep driving and think maybe if it got worse there'd be a buzzer or something?

 

Oh yeah and the intake PLENUM (plevna? That estonian?) does not need to be removed for the rear sparkplugs, I have a much easier way: 1 change front plugs. 2 drive car up on ramps and disconnect upper dogbone(s). 3 get hydraulic jack, raise and place centered under front of engine cradle, and have jack stand ready. 4 remove both front cradle bolts. 5 lower cradle down gently tipping engine forward enough to create access to rear plugs. Raise jackstand to cradle just incase the jack fails. Use socket extension.

I basically did that on the hoist (instead of ramps) at work and I have to say in was the easiest transverse-V6 sparkplug change I have ever done. Much easier than a pushrod v6.

 

Hey slick? Saw your exchange calculation there, just wanted to say that the CAD has always been running somwhere in the .65-.75 range against the USD. Seems to be only very recently that the "Loonie" has soared to the .95 USD mark. (Which is sweet).

 

Like I said doug your car is a NICE car. It is way overdue for the timing belt change but I was able to take a tiny peek at it and it still seemed to be in good condition so I say just FIX what needs to be fixed, instead of letting problems pile up, and you may still get another couple of years out of that car -- as long as the current coolant problem is not Serious. I mean how did that console shifter cover get destroyed?! What happened to the power seat switch? Stop getting mad and smashing things, Hulk! I say, fix the problems, start with the most serious, knock off the problems one thing at a time, maybe do one thing a month, and eventually all the annoying things that are all piled up and pissing you off will settle out. And stop beating on it.

 

I have to agree that you didn't do your homework with this car. Remember what the guys on Turbododge.com told me? "A GM 3.4DOHC? It's like owning a Chrysler Turbo-III engine, (referring to it's temperment and cost of maintenance) except that you can actually get parts for it. (Some parts for the 2.2L DOHC Turbo-III engine are impossible to find - a head with no cracks is the Holy Grail). You jumped on and bought the car after only one short night test drive. I couldn't believe you bought it so fast. I would have at least tried to wait for an e-test first before handing over the dough. But at the time all you said you needed was a car to pull a trailer to Hell, MI and back and that's pretty much it. You got it.

 

Oh well. Bed. Made. Lie.

 

James

[GP1138]

Post of the year. I'd never heard the term "Genie Lamp".

[Brian P]

that was good.

 

This is not a normal car!!

 

There lies your answer!

[slick]

 

 

Hey slick? Saw your exchange calculation there, just wanted to say that the CAD has always been running somwhere in the .65-.75 range against the USD. Seems to be only very recently that the "Loonie" has soared to the .95 USD mark. (Which is sweet).

 

James

 

Yeah, I went with the most recent exchange rate when I did that. I remember .65-.75 when I came over a few years ago, talk about ass rape.

[IRONDOG442]

Hi. I'm Doug's brother. I'm the guy that's always sucked into fixing this car. This car was also bought off of my co-worker who owned it since new and has all records.

 

Doug. Your car is a NICE car. Yes the rockers are rusted. The back door is dented. But Doug. The car drives like a dream! It's so smooth on the highway. The cruise control works! Everything works! Well except the tape deck(sloww) but the stereo sounds good. It's a NICE CAR! Ever since the rear brake upgrade, your car STILL stops on a dime and gives you 3 cents change. I really like driving your car when I get the chance. It's just well, so nice to drive. When I step on the gas, I'm not used to how it wants to GO! RRUMMMP! "whoah, easy on that tip-in". And that car flies when you get on it! Well you know what I mean!

 

Except that it's OLD! Things wear out and need replacing! It's got a shopping list of problems, besides the above, coolant level sensor, rear shock mounts, turn signal switch, shifter indicator on the console, blower motor resistor (only works on 3 of 4 speeds)... Wow, that's all I can think of!

 

And yes, you are friggen rough on it, don't lie! Ease the gas on! Come to a complete stop before shifting from R to OD. And you never check on things!

 

I was suprised this time around that you drove with the trailer in OD for the entire trip From Ottawa, through Detroit, Chicago, Sault Ste.Marie and back home. The previous trip you used D the entire trip and you were raving about how well the car did; so I am wondering why you used OD this time around. But oh well it's your engine and trans.

 

I was also very disappointed to learn that you drove that entire trip and never even opened the hood, even after you got me to top up your coolant, which took a whole 4 litres of 50/50 mix, so you should've known to monitor the situation. There was no coolant leaking that I could see under the car so I I figured you'd keep an eye on it during the trip and just top it up as needed in the morning. I mean jeez you're pulling a trailer that far I figure you'd check on things from time to time. I don't fix what I can't see, and If I don't know how bad the problem is... Because at the time, I just figured the coolant had never been checked for a whole year or something. So I just topped it up for you, replaced under warranty the balljoint that was on the verge of exploding (gee I wonder how that happened), changed your oil (which didn't look out of the ordinary), checked your other fluids, drove your car home, (see? free delivery!) PLUS I got your a/c working again in the evening hours (hurray for redtek!), and sent you on your way.

 

Also yes you are wayy exaggerating some of these parts. OK. First off. The Alternator? At my work Lists for $251 for a quality tested reman, and pays 3.2h labour to install. 3.2 x $79 (today's rate at my work) = $252.80 labour to install, so the alternator and labour is $503.80, finally add 14% taxes and that would come to a grand total of $574.33 - thats if you were to have it changed at my work.

You however got the alternator at shop cost plus taxes, and free installation. It may have taken me four days to change it as I was working on it in my spare time lying on the ground on the cold garage floor having coolant spill all over me from the rusty heater pipe that runs by there which broke from lowering the side of the engine down, etc etc; but that's the price you pay for having it done so cheap. It was also my first time changing an alternator on a 3.4L DOHC and yes people in this case I did have to pull the driveshaft out as there is a heat shield above it which needed to be removed in order to access the alternator. So let it be known that now that I have done one I know what to do next time, which hasn't happened yet.

 

Starter lists at $241.48, and at my work pays 1.6h to install (ouch, I didn't really think it was that hard once I got it done.) You got it for list price (not shop cost this time, I want something for doing this in my free time now), and free installation. I covered the taxes.

 

As for that gas leak, well it only leaks when it's full, but whenever it's in the shop it's alway got a low tank so I can't really see where it's coming from, and in anycase you asked me how much to replace the tank. It pays 2.5h, and you told me that that's too much, and you'll just live with it. Well then fine we (my work) left it alone. I cannot change the tank at home. You just have to remember to not park on the driveway while you have a full tank, once it has gone down it's ok. It's just that we just have to remind you...

 

So now back to that coolant situation. I think it goes back to you driving around for 4 kilometers @ 80km/h with the temp gauge pinned at the red line, with no p/s, a/c, alt, or w/p. There was never any problem before that. But now I really have to try and find out. Remember I said I took your car for a boot the other night? When I got back home, I popped the hood and felt the upper rad hose. There was no pressure. But there also was no coolant smell. Hmm. This was at 11:30 at night so I didn't do anything else. Just checking. I'm gonna have to pressure test the cooling system and pray that it's NOT IN THE ENGINE. I'm hoping that it's not that bad. I don't think it's the trailer's fault.

 

I'd like to see what you'd've done if the Genie Lamp (oil light) came on. Keep driving and think maybe if it got worse there'd be a buzzer or something?

 

Oh yeah and the intake PLENUM (plevna? That estonian?) does not need to be removed for the rear sparkplugs, I have a much easier way: 1 change front plugs. 2 drive car up on ramps and disconnect upper dogbone(s). 3 get hydraulic jack, raise and place centered under front of engine cradle, and have jack stand ready. 4 remove both front cradle bolts. 5 lower cradle down gently tipping engine forward enough to create access to rear plugs. Raise jackstand to cradle just incase the jack fails. Use socket extension.

I basically did that on the hoist (instead of ramps) at work and I have to say in was the easiest transverse-V6 sparkplug change I have ever done. Much easier than a pushrod v6.

 

Hey slick? Saw your exchange calculation there, just wanted to say that the CAD has always been running somwhere in the .65-.75 range against the USD. Seems to be only very recently that the "Loonie" has soared to the .95 USD mark. (Which is sweet).

 

Like I said doug your car is a NICE car. It is way overdue for the timing belt change but I was able to take a tiny peek at it and it still seemed to be in good condition so I say just FIX what needs to be fixed, instead of letting problems pile up, and you may still get another couple of years out of that car -- as long as the current coolant problem is not Serious. I mean how did that console shifter cover get destroyed?! What happened to the power seat switch? Stop getting mad and smashing things, Hulk! I say, fix the problems, start with the most serious, knock off the problems one thing at a time, maybe do one thing a month, and eventually all the annoying things that are all piled up and pissing you off will settle out. And stop beating on it.

 

I have to agree that you didn't do your homework with this car. Remember what the guys on Turbododge.com told me? "A GM 3.4DOHC? It's like owning a Chrysler Turbo-III engine, (referring to it's temperment and cost of maintenance) except that you can actually get parts for it. (Some parts for the 2.2L DOHC Turbo-III engine are impossible to find - a head with no cracks is the Holy Grail). You jumped on and bought the car after only one short night test drive. I couldn't believe you bought it so fast. I would have at least tried to wait for an e-test first before handing over the dough. But at the time all you said you needed was a car to pull a trailer to Hell, MI and back and that's pretty much it. You got it.

 

Oh well. Bed. Made. Lie. ENJOY THAT !!!

I'M RICK James BITCH !!!

 

Fixed !!!!